My e-revo brushless edition build

[Novarider]

How do you think the KD chassis would hold up the way it comes? I mostly jump and do tricks like backflips and frontflips while in the air. Do you think the chasers would hold up to jumping about 12-15 feet in the air? I would like a stronger chassis mine is cracked at the rear bolt holes where the wing attaches

[mistercrash]

The way it comes from Kershaw Design? I don't really know actually I didn't run it for very long like that because of the two chassis braces (I called them towers earlier). I just thought that they were much too flexible and didn't give much structural support to the chassis. They are so flexible that if you tighten the six screws and nuts too much, they squish and make the top plate arc down. (or up?)

Look here

I bought this chassis after months of thinking about it. I was curious. It is a simple design so I thought if there are flaws then I can fix it easily. So I just went for it and bought it. With some work, this chassis turned out to be a really really good one. Really tough for bashers and very stiff which racers will appreciate. But it did need some work. It doesn't look as good and sweet as the Gorilla chassis but right now it's the only option.

Looking back on it, I'm glad I have the chassis but I could've made this chassis myself for a fraction of the price. It is really simple to make, only 4 major parts made out of flat stock. The top plate has 2 bends in it.
There's one word that pops back in my head when someone asks me what are my final thoughts on this chassis, no matter how good it is right now on my ERBE. ''overpriced''.

It's your call, $30 for a stock one that flexes too much or $180 for one that needs some work on your part to make it bullet proof.

[mistercrash]

The ESC wire coming out from the back was fine on the stock ERBE chassis with the receiver box on the other side of the motor but now my box is in the front on the same side of the chassis as the ESC so I re routed the wire so it comes out the front of the ESC to go to the receiver box. It just looks a bit cleaner that way. The excess on/off switch wire is placed in a piece of heat shrink and tucked away.



When I finally get my CF sheet to make a new bottom plate, the front battery strap will be placed 10 mm more to the front so the total space I will have for batteries will be 175 mm long by 52 mm wide by 43 mm high.

[mistercrash]

I'm back with graphs again. I analyzed the 4 Turnigy 4500 mah 6.6 volt LiFePO4 batteries I got and here is an overlay of the 4 results. I bought the packs in pairs and named the first pair A1 and A2. The second pair B1 and B2. From the results, I matched A1 with B1 and A2 with B2.



LiFePO4 A1 (in black):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.92 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 27 minutes 9 seconds
Tested capacity: 4520 mah

LiFePO4 A1 (in red):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.85 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 26 minutes 20 seconds
Tested capacity: 4384 mah

LiFePO4 A1 (in green):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.82 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 27 minutes 15 seconds
Tested capacity: 4537 mah

LiFePO4 A1 (in blue):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.77 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 26 minutes 3 seconds
Tested capacity: 4337 mah