Monster GT Conversion With A Center Diff - Page 12 - RC-Monster Forums

Kcaz25 · 05.26.2010, 11:51 AM

Well I mean at least we know what they look like. LOL sorry

The Dude · 05.26.2010, 11:59 AM

but I think it's a 2 pieces design (it seems no ?)

Chadworkz · 05.27.2010, 01:08 AM

Steel? Wow!

Krawlin · 05.27.2010, 03:07 AM

This mount has been steel since I decided to completely redo my center diff motor mount with something less hack looking (and performing) a couple months ago. I don't really care about weight since this truck weighs less than my E-Maxx, and I know how to weld and I have lots of steel available to me, so it's the best thing to make a motor mount out of in my case.

Got some more work done to it, got all the holes drilled in it and now I just have to do some more finish work on it. Have to order another Turnigy LiPo before I can run it though, one of mine had a bad cell and I wasn't able to revive it.

I'll post some actual pictures of the motor mount tomorrow.

Chadworkz · 05.27.2010, 03:41 PM

Damn! That thing looks awesome!!! If you could have someone turn that into a CAD/CAM file, and then have it CNC machined out of a solid chunk of billet aluminum (still with the removable, bolt-on section for diff access/removal), you would have something you could market, sell, and make quite a bit of money on!

Krawlin · 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

Damn! That thing looks awesome!!! If you could have someone turn that into a CAD/CAM file, and then have it CNC machined out of a solid chunk of billet aluminum (still with the removable, bolt-on section for diff access/removal), you would have something you could market, sell, and make quite a bit of money on!

Thanks! I know how to use AutoCAD 2010 pretty well (took a course at the community college for it), and I'm trying Inventor out on my own, so I could draw it up, but getting that machined would be awesome. The price of the billet block for something that big and the amount of waste from machining it would make it too expensive to sell probably. If there was a huge aftermarket for MGT's that was more like UE stuff then it would be more likely to sell, and I could make one for Maxx's too, but it's probably not worth it. I'm not sure how well RCM-Mike would like me trying to market them either considering they are somewhat similar to his universal center diff motor mount.

Quote:

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

Uber Beef! I like it!

Looks very nice, hit it with a coat of paint or something to keep it from rusting man. Good work

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bondonutz

No color, Laquer clear in a spray bomb !

Nice engineering and looks plenty strong !

Thanks guys! I plan on clear-coating it once all of the finish work is done.

brushlessboy16 · 05.27.2010, 03:47 PM

Uber Beef! I like it!

Looks very nice, hit it with a coat of paint or something to keep it from rusting man. Good work

Bondonutz · 05.27.2010, 03:49 PM

No color, Laquer clear in a spray bomb !

Nice engineering and looks plenty strong !

suicideneil · 05.27.2010, 06:03 PM

Groovy, thats definately a different approach compared to what we're used to seeing.

The Dude · 05.28.2010, 09:40 AM

really nice work man !!
like this different point of view, it's original and look really solid

I bend my motor mount, so my friend gonna make it in 8mm....

Krawlin · 05.28.2010, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Dude

really nice work man !!
like this different point of view, it's original and look really solid

I bend my motor mount, so my friend gonna make it in 8mm....

Thanks!

And how did you bend that?! It looked really solid in those pictures you have of it, how thick is it? And what grade of aluminum is it?

Krawlin · 09:25 PM

Small update, got my MGT torn down, waiting on my new chassis. Going to do some mods to the new one right after I get it, including countersinking the holes for the mud guards so I can use flat head screws, so I won't have to put pieces of velcro over the screws to protect the LiPos like I did with button head screws. I need to find an OEM dog bone for the rear center shaft as well, my current setup is kind of hack and it's getting really sloppy and worn out. I'll have more pictures of it later once I get the new chassis and put it all back together.

EDIT: Found the perfect pair of OEM dogbones on Nitrohouse.com, it's a front and rear center set for the Hyper 9 1.0, and they are both exactly the length I need, 93mm front and 115mm rear, talk about good luck! http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id=21011 And they have a chrome finish, which doesn't show pitting from rocks like black drive shafts tend to. Going to be ordering those tonight.

The Dude · 05.31.2010, 02:31 AM

Hi
I don't know how I bend it, maybe in the skate-park (a bad place for the truck.....but great for the jump....

)
It's a little bending, very little, (don't know how to explain that... ) but my friend say it's better to do it in 8mm, for secure it...
If I remember right it's 2017A (he don't have a 7075T6 in stock and I don't really want to wait too much time

)

today I'm gonna make a real ESC support in carbon... I don't trust the zip-tie

(and I've got a Traxxas support for hold it

)

Chadworkz · 04:10 PM

That looks awesome! I really like it!

Edit #1: I REALLY like those spring-loaded body mounts...who made them and where did you get them?

Edit #2: How much wider are the Monster GT A-Arms than the Maxx A-Arms? Can you measure your Monster GT arms from end to end (just the arms) so I can compare that measurement to my Maxx arms? I would really appreciate it.

Krawlin · 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

That looks awesome! I really like it!

Edit #1: I REALLY like those spring-loaded body mounts...who made them and where did you get them?

Edit #2: How much wider are the Monster GT A-Arms than the Maxx A-Arms? Can you measure your Monster GT arms from end to end (just the arms) so I can compare that measurement to my Maxx arms? I would really appreciate it.

I don't have my MGT in front of me right now as I am over at a friend's house, so I can't help you with question two, but for question 1, those are stock MGT body mounts, he just added a spring between the mount and the tower, and put the pin that would normally go through the tower and the mount post through the mount post only, right below the tower. Basically the only extra part there would be the springs. It can be done with stock Maxx body mounts as well.

Not to jump the gun or anything here, but if you were considering using MGT arms on your Maxx, the uppers would have to be modded to work and even then I'm not sure if they would fit, and the lowers would also have to be modded. Both would require removing material around where the hinge pin goes through the arm on the uppers, and for the lowers you would have to remove the middle stub that sticks out from the arm for the hinge pin to go through, and I'm not sure if the outer stubs for the hinge pin are the right width to fit into a Maxx bulkhead. For the modifications needed, it probably wouldn't be worth it, if that is in fact what you were considering. I'm curious to know, is that what you wanted to do or were you just wondering if the lengths were different?