CC Blower....Blows

[georgec]

Well Josh the new fans showed up yesterday and they are a perfect fit in the MMM and CC Blows. As you wanted I will post a few pics as I go through the swap over, but first I want to explain why I do the wiring like I do. To begin I don't try and desolider and resolider the wires to the PC board on the back of the motor because the solider points are tiny, very close together and recessed in the plastic motor case. To me it's just not worth the risk of all the things that could go wrong like over heating the PC board or overlapping solider joints and on and on, so this is how we do it.

Here's what you get for the money



You will notice that the new fan comes with three wires, red, black and yellow. The yellow wire is not needed so cut it off as short as you can then cut the red and black wires leaving them long enough to work with.

Cut the wire to be reused off the old fan in about the same place that you cut the wire from the new one, this way the wire after joined will be about the same as the original. Then strip the insulation back on the ends to be joined about 1/8" apply flux paste to the bare wires and pretin with a small amount of solider, cut two pieces of heat shrink tubing 3/8" long and slide it over the wires back far enough that the heat won't get to it when you solider the wires together. Allot of people use the helping hands jig to solider wires together, I prefer a 1/4" thick piece of ceramic tile and a small lite weight clamp, a cloths pin will do. Now clamp the fan to the tile and solider the wires together, then slide the shrink tubing over the joint and shrink it with a heat gun or lighter. Slap that sucker back in the case, plug it up and you are good to go.



There are several differences that I noticed between the ball bearing and the old bushing fans, first off the motor is larger on the bearing unit therefore the blades are a little shorter and beefier, that's a plus also there is no up and down play on the ball bearing fan like there is on the bushing fan. Not sure what the CFM is but I can tell that the new fans are moving more air.

A side note on the CC Blows, when they made the fan shroud that fits over the motor they didn't allow any place for the air to exit after the fan pulls it in! So I cut away 5/8" between the two zip tie tracks leaving about 5/32" between the shroud and the motor. That way the air can exit almost as fast as it enters, taking the heat with it! Witch after all is the purpose of the blower....isn't it?
Hope this is of some help
GeorgeC

George, where did you order the fans from? Need to pick up a few.

My cc blower fan lost one blade in the first night of running. Like the blower, hate the fan. Already lost two fans in my ESCs too. Need a reliable replacement.

ben

[georgec]

I bought mine "HERE"

Awesome, just order 4. Thanks for the research, post and info.

ben

[georgec]

My pleasure!

[Shonen]

Originally Posted by georgec

A side note on the CC Blows, when they made the fan shroud that fits over the motor they didn't allow any place for the air to exit after the fan pulls it in! So I cut away 5/8" between the two zip tie tracks leaving about 5/32" between the shroud and the motor. That way the air can exit almost as fast as it enters, taking the heat with it! Witch after all is the purpose of the blower....isn't it?
Hope this is of some help
GeorgeC

The airflow is supposed to go between the fins on the motor can. When I first got my blower I was confused about that as well but after taking it out for a run it made sense. The shrouding is there for a reason, it directs the airflow around the motor for more even cooling. It's true that squeezing that air through that small space will drop the CFM's significantly, but I'm sure Castle did their homework with this. High airflow is useless if it isn't put to work.

It does feels a bit cheaper than I'm used to for a Castle product (very stiff plastic and wires), but it does the job. I haven't had any problems with it yet, although if/when the fan dies you've shown people a replacement option

[georgec]

Originally Posted by Shonen

High airflow is useless if it isn't put to work.

:

What????...How can there even be "HIGH AIR FLOW" when it's being packed up in a box and forced back through the top of the fan? With over whelming back pressure there is no air flow and therefore no heat exchange!

[Shonen]

Originally Posted by georgec

What????...How can there even be "HIGH AIR FLOW" when it's being packed up in a box and forced back through the top of the fan? With over whelming back pressure there is no air flow and therefore no heat exchange!

by cutting up the shroud you decrease backpressure and thus increase CFM, but because the shroud isn't directing the air around the motor, you can't cool the motor as effectively. the air is supposed to flow around the motor, between the shroud and the motor fins. If you wanted maximum airflow, you would just ziptie the fan to the top of the motor without a shroud.

What you're effectively saying in PC terms is that instead of having system/cpu fans inside the case, it's much better to take out the fans and instead put the entire case in front of a fan moving huge amounts of air. Sure, backpressure will drop CFM's but what's the point if what CFM's you have are not being used effectively?

[georgec]

Originally Posted by Shonen

by cutting up the shroud you decrease backpressure and thus increase CFM, but because the shroud isn't directing the air around the motor, you can't cool the motor as effectively. the air is supposed to flow around the motor, between the shroud and the motor fins. If you wanted maximum airflow, you would just ziptie the fan to the top of the motor without a shroud.

What you're effectively saying in PC terms is that instead of having system/cpu fans inside the case, it's much better to take out the fans and instead put the entire case in front of a fan moving huge amounts of air. Sure, backpressure will drop CFM's but what's the point if what CFM's you have are not being used effectively?

By opening the bottom of the shroud the air flow is allowed to move across a larger portion of the motor with greater cfm therefore taking more heat with it!

[georgec]

If you want to relate this to a cpu, you can have as many fans inside the box as you want but if you don't have fans removing the air from the box you are doing nothing but circulating hot air in the box!

[Shonen]

Originally Posted by georgec

By opening the bottom of the shroud the air flow is allowed to move across a larger portion of the motor with greater cfm therefore taking more heat with it!

If you want to relate this to a cpu, you can have as many fans inside the box as you want but if you don't have fans removing the air from the box you are doing nothing but circulating hot air in the box!

The shroud is there for a reason. Like I said earlier, if you wanted maximum airflow you wouldn't use the shroud at all, just ziptie a fan (probably a larger one) on the top of the motor.

Also, what you said about the pc (not cpu) is entirely correct, it's not the best analogy but that's what I've been trying to tell you. The shrouding ducts the fan so it will push air across the maximum amount of motor surface area while keeping a decent amount of airflow. Pull air through the case (ie. what has to be cooled) even though there's vents, cabling, etc. in the way rather than blast only one part of it with high speed air.

[georgec]

Well the bottom line is I'm not cooling a "PC" I'm cooling a 1/8th E buggy motor under race conditions. Before the mod to the shroud my motor temps after a 15min main ran between 170/180f after 160/170f but I believe I can do better than that by taking one of these and removing the nose piece and splitting the rest in half. With this fan bracket I can mount a 40x10mm fan instead of the 30x7mm. The reason I know this will work better is I already have this setup on a Tekno 2200kv motor and it temps at 150/160f after a 15min main.
Here is the Tekno setup on my O'Donnell Z01-Be