Quote:
Originally Posted by jhautz
The reason it wouldnt run on the NiMH battery is you had it set for a 6s LVC setting so it saw the voltage as to low and wouldnt run.
I suspect that something wasnt right in the battery after the repair. If there was something wrong enough to melt a tab in the pack, whatever was wrong the first time was probably still wrong and it completely melted down the next time.
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True about the settings, I didn't try to run it, but you're right, I'm sure it wouldn't have worked.
So, about the battery. I think I need to learn some more because I'm not understanding. Here is what I thought happened:
- ESC mostly died and shorted(but still lit up the lights when I plugged in the NiMh pack)
- Short drew enough current to burn through a tab on the battery
- I repaired the tab, all voltages were normal again
- Plugged it back in and ESC finished frying because there was voltage again
Can these batteries go bad and do something to fry ESCs? Or how would something wrong with the battery cause the ESC to fry? Can the voltage spike or something? This battery worked fine for 15-20 minutes of messing with the steering endpoints and other stuff. Then worked fine for around 5-7 minutes of driving. Before hooking it up the first time I checked the battery and polarity was correct and the voltage was just over 24v. After repair I tested again and it all tested out fine again.
I'm not saying I don't believe you guys, just want to understand more. This thing is a HK battery so I know it's not top notch. I figured for bashing it would be fine, but maybe I was wrong.