MaxAmps 24V power supply

i'm not a maxamps fan, definitely..
but it's been a while since i was looking for a relatively cheap 24V power supply..
unfortunately i don't have the skills to connect in series 2x 12V power supply (i saw on this board people do that, but dont seems safe for me and my knowledge)

but i found this..
http://www.maxamps.com/Power-Supply-24V.htm

100v-240v AC Input Voltage
24.3v DC Output Voltage
47A Continuous Output Current
1150W Output
11" x 4.5" x 3.125" dimensions
6.5 lbs
Short circuit and over-voltage protection
Heavy duty metal cabinet
1-year guarantee

for 160 bucks, its the cheapest 24V PS ready to use with 1 year guarantee..
what do you think, its worth it?

have you found another good and cheap 24V PS to use with the powerlab8 or with the 3010b icharger?

on progressive rc the cheapest 1000w 24V ps it's 219$..

thanks guys, and sorry for my bad european english..

[josh9mille]

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28373

Originally Posted by dr_gonzo

i'm not a maxamps fan, definitely..
but it's been a while since i was looking for a relatively cheap 24V power supply..
unfortunately i don't have the skills to connect in series 2x 12V power supply (i saw on this board people do that, but dont seems safe for me and my knowledge)

but i found this..
http://www.maxamps.com/Power-Supply-24V.htm

100v-240v AC Input Voltage
24.3v DC Output Voltage
47A Continuous Output Current
1150W Output
11" x 4.5" x 3.125" dimensions
6.5 lbs
Short circuit and over-voltage protection
Heavy duty metal cabinet
1-year guarantee

for 160 bucks, its the cheapest 24V PS ready to use with 1 year guarantee..
what do you think, its worth it?

have you found another good and cheap 24V PS to use with the powerlab8 or with the 3010b icharger?

on progressive rc the cheapest 1000w 24V ps it's 219$..

thanks guys, and sorry for my bad european english..

This is a great option for you. And it includes a 1-year guarantee. If your not looking to do a power supply mod yourself, then this would be the way to go. The 12V is a little cheaper, but if your running the power lab charger I would recommend the 24V as it handles double the charge wattage.

Thanks,

Brandon
maxamps.com

[snellemin]

If using the Power lab with the 12V version, make sure you lower the source voltage a bit when using the latest firmware.

Get the 24V version when you plan on charging @ 40A.

[JERRY2KONE]

From all of the Hype and reasonable discussions this power supply seems to be a pretty good deal compared to most of the competitors I have seen out there. Besides with them giving a one year warranty what more can one ask for? Frankly it is a good use of a computer server power supply that are now outdated in that realm and have been replaced with a newer version. Kind of like getting a hand-me-down for a much lower price than when they first came onto the market. Give it a try and let us know how it works out for you.

[RC toy]

Hi. I found these "maxamps" power supplies: http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

I need 24V 1150W power suply, so maybe someone could explain how to connect these to make one big power supply. I mean the same as maxamps 24v 1150W. Thank you.

[BrianG]

Quoting myself from the other thread:

Originally Posted by BrianG

Personally, floating one of the cases away from ground is NOT the right way to do it. It works, but there is a potential for something internally to go wrong (like a wire coming loose) and make the case float at whatever circuit it is touching. This is why everything with a metal case is grounded. Either that, or you'd have to wrap the internals in something non-conductive and then put that in the metal case, but what's the point in having two cases? Or, remove all the internals and put them in a completely different case with only the more negative supply ground referenced.

To do this "right" with minimal work, you'd decouple the supply output ground from the case altogether (technically, this only needs to be done on one supply), tie both cases together, ground both cases, and to make things more tidy, internally create jumpers of sorts to tie the mains inputs together (just so one power cord is needed).

'Nuff said.