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Thirdgen89GTA
You can sleep in a car, but you can't race a house
 
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Location: Buffalo Grove, IL
02.16.2012, 07:04 PM

I don't have a Hyper ST. I've got a Jammin X1 truggy though, and while people recomended the single battery layout, no one told me I was crazy or that it couldn't be done with saddle pack style. My advice is to take ALL of your measurements and mock it up on the chassis. There will be drilling and countersinking of the chassis most likely.

Now that the truck is done I'm VERY happy with the saddle pack layout. Left to right is about as balanced as it can get, and the truck is actually balanced front to back very well too. The motor is already pretty close to centerline, so even though its nearly 416 grams, it doesn't have much polar momentum.

With twin 2S packs its slightly nose heavy. Steers faster under power. With twin 3S packs its a little less nimble, but the run time or speed benefits are why I'd run it that way. 3S 10,000mah is nice. But if you wanna go fast just change from parallel to series and go 6S.

The only annoying thing is making sure to label your packs so you only run them in pairs. I only have 1 pair of 2S, and 1 pair of 3S but when I get more I'll label them so I don't mix and match new/old packs.

If I did it again though I would have gone for custom battery trays to fit the batteries I do have better. since the trays are slightly too long and I had to do some clearancing to make them fit. I also installed stops to prevent the battery from sliding forward. If I had gone with custom sized trays I could have avoided that.

If you go saddle pack, you can make a rear ESC tray that will put the ESC between the two packs. I just finished the last revision to the setup which lowered the ESC and protected it better from lid impacts.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=30843&page=2


  • 1989 Pontiac TransAm GTA, 5.7L LT1/M6 400rwhp+
    • Jammin X1 CRT Pro, MMM/1717, 6S
    • Hyper One Seven 1/7th scale GT car, MMM/1717, 6S
    • Hyper 10TT, MMP/1410, 3S
    • TL Mini 8ight, stock, 2S

Last edited by Thirdgen89GTA; 02.16.2012 at 07:12 PM.
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shan75
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02.16.2012, 07:22 PM

Awesome build. Was hoping to get some feedback on the saddle config - so thanks!

I was leaning towards 2 x lipo simply due to the longer "fun/run" times for bashing, but even so - would not do it if balance was way out of whack. Based on your commnets - with a bit of tweaking it works well. Appreciate the feedback!

Some good points about ESC placment. I purchased a MM along with a traxxas MM ESC mount. http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Moun..._p/tra5626.htm Should be well protected I think. Was a suggestion I read somewhere on another forum.

What about rear suspension? Any issues?
   
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Thirdgen89GTA
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02.16.2012, 07:26 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by shan75 View Post
Awesome build. Was hoping to get some feedback on the saddle config - so thanks!

I was leaning towards 2 x lipo simply due to the longer "fun/run" times for bashing, but even so - would not do it if balance was way out of whack. Based on your commnets - with a bit of tweaking it works well. Appreciate the feedback!

Some good points about ESC placment. I purchased a MM along with a traxxas MM ESC mount. http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Moun..._p/tra5626.htm Should be well protected I think. Was a suggestion I read somewhere on another forum.

What about rear suspension? Any issues?
The nuts on the rear arm pins can be someone hard to get to. But a set of small/long needle nose pliers is usually all I need. I can grab the nut and unscrew the arm. It doesn't make it the fastest to work on, but it works.

If I went with a set of custom battery trays I'd save some space and it would be easier too. But thats more $$$ than I want to invest. The truck right now is pretty hard to upset side to side. Though I still need to work out the damping and small rhythm sections at speed can upset the back end. I should try filling the rear shocks with 50wt instead of 60wt to see if that helps.

But if you can fit them, it offers balance as good as it can get. If you look at all the purpose designed 1/10th scale electric off roaders they either use a single central battery or saddle packs. Just about anything thats converted from a nitro car uses a single pack for easy of conversion.

One of the things I really don't like is where the motor wires are, but thankfully with as low as they are now the chances of them getting hit hard in a crash are very minimal.

Just take your time, measure out your components and you should be fine. You'll hit some snags with a saddle pack that most people don't see because they didn't go that route. But nothing is insurmountable. My conversion took about 1 month to complete due to waiting for parts, and wanting to do it right. I had questions that needed answering, and some questions only popped up once I had the components in my hands.

This was also my first electric conversion, so going my own way made more questions. But I'm really happy with it. Its supremely fast, and runtimes are good when I want them to be. I think I get about 15-20m on the twin 4S and 3S packs in series. And with the 3S packs in parallel I can be out there for a long while. It tops out about 35mph right now with 3S power. Top speed has never been tested because I don't have a tire that won't fly apart at speed, and the front diff STILL unloads even with 100k center fluid.


  • 1989 Pontiac TransAm GTA, 5.7L LT1/M6 400rwhp+
    • Jammin X1 CRT Pro, MMM/1717, 6S
    • Hyper One Seven 1/7th scale GT car, MMM/1717, 6S
    • Hyper 10TT, MMP/1410, 3S
    • TL Mini 8ight, stock, 2S

Last edited by Thirdgen89GTA; 02.16.2012 at 07:30 PM.
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