RC-Monster Forums  

Go Back   RC-Monster Forums > Support Forums > Truggy

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old
  (#1)
Thirdgen89GTA
You can sleep in a car, but you can't race a house
 
Thirdgen89GTA's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 311
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Buffalo Grove, IL
02.16.2012, 11:23 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by shan75 View Post
Again - appreciate the input guys.

Correct Arct1k - you were the guy I was thinking of running both setups! Cheers for that.

This is my first conversion as well - so trying to be mindful about what I do.

So - seems like there are positive benefits for going both ways with the batteries. Obvious simplicity for the single battery, but added benefits in going for x2 lipos. Hmmmm.....need to think about this more I think.

As for diffs - 100K in middle diff and it still unloads? Damn.

I have read posts all over the web about different configs relating to diff oils (specific to Hyper ST mind you). To be honest - seems like opinion is all over the place! I have seen positive reviews (front/middle/rear) for 5K/20K/3K, 5k/10K/3K, 10K/50K/3K, 10K/100k/10K etc etc. Some people putting 140K+ into the centres. All over the place!
Did my head in actually. Settled for 10K/60K/4K for my Hyper Pro. Also bought a bottle 20K in case 60K was overkill.... Maybe I should have gone higher tho? Time will tell.

As for motor protection with the middle diff flip - I read somewhere that Mugen MB chassis guards fit nice onto the Hyper ST, so I ordered a set. They widen the body and provide impact protection as well as higher edges to prevent debris from getting into chassis.

Trying to cover all the angles I can with this car....bound to miss something though....
It all depends on just how much power you are putting through the system. On 3S and 4S the front diff really doesn't unload all that much. Its crazy the power jump from 4S to 6S. Thats really crazy. I can control the power now without much of the software aids in the ESC. But I couldn't track it on 6S. Its just too much power. Though I make take it to the local track and set the TQ limiting to .6 or .7 and see if I can control it there. Would be funny to blast down the straights like mad. Except the end of the straight is a brick wall.

Truthfully I've been having alot of fun with my Mini 8ight. So much so that I'm considering buying a Mini E-Revo VXL so I have that too at the indoor track.


  • 1989 Pontiac TransAm GTA, 5.7L LT1/M6 400rwhp+
    • Jammin X1 CRT Pro, MMM/1717, 6S
    • Hyper One Seven 1/7th scale GT car, MMM/1717, 6S
    • Hyper 10TT, MMP/1410, 3S
    • TL Mini 8ight, stock, 2S
  Send a message via AIM to Thirdgen89GTA  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#2)
shan75
RC-Monster Stock
 
Offline
Posts: 6
Join Date: Feb 2012
02.18.2012, 04:27 AM

Yeah - well - no indoor tracks near me unfortunately. Outdoors bashing only so strength is really important to me. Bigger is better outdoors...

Soooo...

Decided to make life hard for myself and go with the saddled lipo config. I figure I can always reverse it back to 1 x lipo it if I am not happy. If I do it the easy way with single battery from the start and I get the truggy operational - I will never be motivated to mod it again. So yeah - will do necessary tricky chassis mods now for diff flip I reckon.

I started stripping the car down, flipped the diff and visually it appears like the front chassis brace is definitely going to get in the way of the Castle 2200kv I have on order!?!

I know other guys with this config have used the 2200kv castle combo, but yeah - while I cannot confirm for sure as engine is not here yet - I am pretty certain it will get in the way.

Scanned through the forums and there is some mention of the space limitations at front, but no real mention about having to mod chassis braces with a 2200kv motor?

QUESTION - can someone who has flipped the centre confirm for me what else needs doing in the front? Arct1k if you read this would appreciate your input as I know you have done this! Already thinking maybe I should have followed your original advice mate...

2200kv castle is approx 75mm long and 41mm wide - from my rough measurements - engine will hit that front brace. Am I going nuts?

Comments I read about flipping the diff on the hyper mentioned grinding chassis for centre diff gear clearance, but have read no mention of anything else?

Looked at all the pic's I can - hard to tell what other peeps may have done.

Grind the brace for clearance?
Shim the engine so it is angled way from the brace?
Alter the diff mount slighty? Not real keen and changing drive train alignment tho...

How the heck to you guys do it?

Appreciate any input on this.

Cheers.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#3)
magman
RC-Monster Dual Brushless
 
magman's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
02.18.2012, 11:45 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thirdgen89GTA View Post
Would be funny to blast down the straights like mad. Except the end of the straight is a brick wall.
That would not be good for sure. I was showing off one day in a campsite with my mbx5t on 5s and lost focus for a sec and wham...bathroom wall jumped out at me. Not to much damage considering the speed of impact


1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#4)
shan75
RC-Monster Stock
 
Offline
Posts: 6
Join Date: Feb 2012
02.19.2012, 03:35 AM

Thanks Arct1k - thought as much.

Again - appreciate the input.

Cheers!
   
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump







Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com