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nativepaul
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04.02.2012, 03:08 PM

No that is the one that I called the Joysway offshore warrior, as Joysway is the manafacturer and that is the name they gave it, its a decent boat by any name though and I forgot that it is self righting too, it is a 17" mini size boat for 3s 2000mAh ish packs. The Tenshock Mono1 is a bigger boat at 23" for 2s5000/3s3500mAh ish packs.

My Tenshock mono 1 , only thing Tenshock is the hull itself though as I got a good deal on it used and put my own bits in it.


My JAE.21FE, there's nothing faster or more of an adrenalin rush than a rigger, they can get into (and out of) trouble so quickly they really do make your knees knock here I'm getting a little out of shape on the wake of another 4s Hydro that I am overtaking, and by the next frame 1/3 of a second later its settled back down to normal attitude as it was a second before.



My Aeromarine Mean Machine on 8s, coming out of the right turn onto the pit straight and flying nicely, if you like a bit of style with your adrenaline and enjoy living life on the edge, then cats are where its at.


Hot Bodies Lightning 2 Pro carbon, Mega 22/30/2, MMM, 4s3-5Ah.
Tamiya F201 carbon, Mamba 7700, MM, 2s A123 2.3ah.
Xray XT8, 1518, MMM, 4s5Ah.
Lots of boats.
fastelectrics.net

Last edited by nativepaul; 04.02.2012 at 03:29 PM. Reason: Huge pics broke the forum.
   
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nastety92
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04.02.2012, 03:52 PM

I wish there was a place in the US that sold the Tenshock Mono1. It looks like it is just available in the UK.

Thanks again for the help and the pics. I need to find someone local to me with a boat so I can try this out before I buy one.

Looks like a TON of fun.

Nick


Tamiya TRF801Xt-e
   
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  (#18)
nativepaul
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04.03.2012, 02:23 PM

MinicatRacing have exclusive deal with tenshock to be the sole importer to USA, they decided not to stock the Mono one on the basis of the older and uglier version which didn't sell well, speak to them and they may add one to their next order though. Being as you are in the states, the 20% VAT sales tax we pay here would not apply to you, and I have imported bigger hulls from the states for around $50 so I wouldn't be surprised if you could get one delivered to you in the states from Heaths in the UK as cheap or cheaper than I could get it 70 miles away.

I will probably get some stick for this, but FE model boats are a LOT more fun than model cars IMO, if I had a lake on my doorstep as I have a road now, I would never use my cars again.


Hot Bodies Lightning 2 Pro carbon, Mega 22/30/2, MMM, 4s3-5Ah.
Tamiya F201 carbon, Mamba 7700, MM, 2s A123 2.3ah.
Xray XT8, 1518, MMM, 4s5Ah.
Lots of boats.
fastelectrics.net
   
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nastety92
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04.04.2012, 06:30 AM

Once again, thanks Paul.

I'm going to e-mail MinicatRacing and Heaths and see what they quote for a price delivered.

I've been looking at the PB Impulse 31, do you really think the Tenshock Mono1 is that much better than this boat? To go through all of this trouble. I can get Proboat parts at my local hobby store.

That is a bold statement about boats vs cars. I guess I'm going to find out.

Thanks again,
Nick


Tamiya TRF801Xt-e
   
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  (#20)
nativepaul
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04.05.2012, 04:21 PM

They are very different the Tenshock is a stepped hull and the impulse isn't, sstepped hulls rule you out of Mono races in America but as you dont intend to race that doesnt matter, the stepped hull is a more efficient design but at the end of the day its a smaller and much less powerful boat, the Impulse has at least the capability of being faster even if it isn't with the stock prop, in race mode the Tenshock runs for 6 minutes on 2s and the Impulse runs 4 minutes on 4s but the more efficient design means it wont be much slower despite having 1/3rd the power. where the tenshock wins out is that its self-righting as it comes , which is an awesome feature to have as you can go out and boat even if the waves are big or its windy, the impulse can probably be made to self-right with the addition of a flood chamber (most Monos can) but it is a pretty big and scary modification for a newb. boating requires a certain amount of reading the water to how fast you can go in which direction with the conditions of the day and self-righting means you haven't got to get the boat or wait for it to come in when you get it wrong which speeds up the learning process.

What packs do you have? From the KVs in your signature you could be running anything from 4s-6s if you have a bunch of 4s packs from trucks and no 2s packs from cars it makes the Impulse cheaper, conversely, if you have neither the tenshock is getting better with its half price packs, and if your trucks are 5s/6s and you have some 2s packs from 1:10th touring cars, the tenshock is a much cheaper proposition.

Boats are not like cars where you need a local supply for arms, hinge pins, body posts, shock towers that you break frequently. If you maintain it well (grease the strut/flex before running, take the flex out at the end of the day, dry and oil it to stop it rusting, and a drop of oil on the motor bearings) you will need very little in the way of parts. Stock plastic props break, (but I wouldn't swap for another Proboat one, either a Graupner carbon (still break but a better prop while it lasts) metal from Octura, ABC, Prather (need sharpening and balancing) or a CNC alloy from ETTI, R2, Tenshock ( break less often than plastic/carbon but can still be dinged my debris, sharp and pre-balanced but expensive) (one and you will want new bearings in the strut every couple of years, and new batteries every year or two as well because the high constant currents of boats do stress cells more than cars do.


Hot Bodies Lightning 2 Pro carbon, Mega 22/30/2, MMM, 4s3-5Ah.
Tamiya F201 carbon, Mamba 7700, MM, 2s A123 2.3ah.
Xray XT8, 1518, MMM, 4s5Ah.
Lots of boats.
fastelectrics.net
   
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  (#21)
nastety92
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04.06.2012, 04:25 PM

Wow you are a wealth of knowledge.

I'm running 4s packs right now and I have a few 2s packs as well. I would like to use 2-4s backs in series and 4s with 10,000mah but only if the motor/esc can take that.

What I'm concerned about is run times and being able to retrive the boat. A friend of mine, who will be with me most of the time, has a small boat that we could use. Other than that I'm on my own.

What would be a good setup for a longer runtime? 10 minutes plus?

Thanks again for all of your help,
Nick


Tamiya TRF801Xt-e
   
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  (#22)
nitrostarter
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04.06.2012, 05:12 PM

A fishing pole with a tennis ball is often used to retrieve dead boats as well.


N. Rustler conversion
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  (#23)
nativepaul
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04.06.2012, 07:57 PM

I don't think any of the RTRs will take 2-4s packs in series, as most of the cheaper ESCs only go up to 6s Max, and 2x 4s packs in series is of course 8s.

The PB impulse will take lots of 4s2p 10,000mAh setups just fine, but a few of the taller cells may not fit under the subhatch, and necessitate you running without it. 10,000mAh should get you 10 mins on the stock prop or a similar sized metal one.

The Tenshock will not take 2s2p 10,000mAh or 4s 5,000mAh and as such you would have to prop down to get 10 minutes runtime and as such the impulse would be considerably faster if they were both setup for 10 minutes.

I am sure the Impulse can be made to self-right with a flood chamber on 4s1p but am not sure you have room for the chamber and offset weight with 4s2p in it, as few folks here run 2p and few folk in the states run self-righting monos for some reason (in Europe they all are) I know its ugly but I would try strapping a big (empty) plastic coke bottle to the top and seeing if that will flip it over in the bath, if it does then strap it on for your first few runs untill you learn what waves you can take at what speed in what direction, then you have a much better chance of getting back to shore upright when you take it off.

Nitrostarter is right about the fishing pole, I use a cheap childrens telescopic fishing rod, with a tennis ball on it for rescue when I'm boating alone (there's rescue boats at all the races), though I keeep thinking of but never get round to upgrading the tennis ball to something a little smaller, as when wet its pretty darned heavy and makes the last section of the rod bend a worrying amount, and it doesnt half make a loud thump when you score a direct hit, which is quite scary though i have seen no signs of damage from it yet. You dont need an amazingly strong line as your not trying to pick the boat up, just drify it in and it takes very little force but having the last couple of meters/yards made from plastic coated stainless "pike wire" (do you have pike over there? if not its 20-30lb metal line for use with fish that have teeth) is a good idea as I learned early on when i cast over the boat, started reeling in and then it got strangely easy, strange that is till I saw the tennis ball floating away, it had wrapped round the sharp rudder and cut itself free. I got both boat and ball back about 15 minutes later as I was standing on the bank with the wind blowing towards me, which is another top tip.

If your ESC has a programmable cutoff, set the voltage nice and high so you still have some left to get you back to the bank when it hits, timing the run helps too, if you have a stopwatch/digital watch/egg timer/friend/clever TX, as then you will only ever have to hit the LVC once, then time your runs so you come in earlier.


Hot Bodies Lightning 2 Pro carbon, Mega 22/30/2, MMM, 4s3-5Ah.
Tamiya F201 carbon, Mamba 7700, MM, 2s A123 2.3ah.
Xray XT8, 1518, MMM, 4s5Ah.
Lots of boats.
fastelectrics.net
   
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