racing ???

ok, so along the lines of a T-Maxx..... are most of the ppl on here just bashers or is there anyone who races?

i was thinking about doing some weekend racing, but a local i talked to said to keep it mostly stock or RPM products for weight savings because all the aluminum stuff adds too much weight and i wont be competative......

any suggestions......

i already have alloy arms and shock towers, and was going to get FLM hybrid bulks for more strength for bashing but if i want to race ill be too heavy? so maybe just the FLM bulks with RPM arms and towers, would this be a good set-up for both bashing and racing, for weight savings and strength.... and ideas?

[Sylvester]

The rpm shocktowers and arms are great for bracing! (Bashing/racing;) ) The hybrids would be a very good investiment. The hybrids are actually lighter than conventional diff/bulk setups.

[squeeforever]

Here is the setup I would run: RPM arms (if I couldnt afford the Integy Type 3 Pro), Hybrid bulks, and FLM shocktowers so i could run a wing.

[Mike.L]

get the rpm arms. and i would make a four shock setup with around 60-80 oil in it. hybrid/or bulks.integy diff case and a flm shock tower

[squeeforever]

I wouldnt get the bulks and cases. The hybrids are a much better option and if you dont want that then the combo bulkless is definately better than the regular bulks and cases as wells as about the same price. Oh, and as for shocks, the best is 8 Proline Powerstrokes. Also, as for the RPM arms, the only reason I wouldnt get them is because of the cvds popping out when they flex, but I just thought of a cure as well as a very smart hopup....3.3 knuckles and sliders. The sliders are very strong and eliminate the need for cvds.

well i guess im gonna have to do something, stripped the maxx apart again last night, only this time i took all the rear arms off completely along with towers and shocks.......

rear tower mounting point to bulk are twisted about 1/4 off from parallel!!! and right arms slightly bent upward, both lower arms have pretty bad wear marks from slider joint rubbing (almost all the way down to pillow ball threads)!!!

guess its time for an all new set-up.... maybe time to trade 2.5 in for the 2.5R or 3.3 too hehehe

hell with this much work, MAYBE, just maybe, go brushless

all money i DONT HAVE right now unfortunately.....

[coolhandcountry]

Well the flm arms and towers are nicer than the ones you got. May not be anodizedthough. Sure beats them out in durablity.

[squeeforever]

If you plan on racing, I would go for the Integy Type 3 Pro because of the True Trac rear suspension.

[coolhandcountry]

The type 3 is tougher than the orgianal integy. It makes the truck handle nice as well. I like the type 3. I wouldn't worry about the flm if you not running a wing.

[squeeforever]

I would personally get the Type 3 and then the FLM towers. A wing is a great addition if you race. it makes it handle and fly alot better.

[Sneeck]

When racing keep it as much stock as possible. Why? Cause you need to supply reserve part's. If you break or bend a integy part(which considering integy is bound to happen) you need to replace it. And knowing nobody else race's maxx's anymore cept for very few people, you can't just ask somebody else for part's, where with a crt you can since everybody race's those.

This is the same with ue part's, aswell as flm and all the other's. Nobody race's maxx's anymore. It is capable of being race worthy, but it will cost you money. Not just to set up a truck, but supply enough spare part's to keep running and not DNF due to broken turnbuckle. Hence keeping it stock rather than tricked out. Only rpm and 3.3 maxx part's.

My suggestion is, get a crt for racing. They are more durable and part supply is way better at race's.

[squeeforever]

Actually, I would have to disagree Sneeck. The Integy suspension is VERY tuff. Leroy runs it and had yet to break anything, even with the 2250. Also, Maxx parts are very common, and CRT parts arent so common, atleast at my hobby shop. i would honestly have to say that a Revop would be the best truck to race. There the most raceworthy MT out of the box.

[Sneeck]

That's what I mean, stock maxx part's are easier to get than upgraded part's. Try and find a front upper arm if you bend it in a race. Good luck. And since it's off set you need to replace the whole front suspension with something else(stock or rpm) if you don't got that part as a spare. Not worth the money imo, neither are all alloy suspension's since spare part's are expensive.

Revo will do fine for sure. But it's strange that your lhs doesn't got crt part's, it's the most raced truggy out there.