Hyper 7 conversion (pics)

Alright thanks for the tip man, I will have check out my lhs to see if they have one.

[squeeforever]

I noticed that mike has some 44 tooth Kyosho spurs in the store.

[Nick]

Originally Posted by fishmasterdan

I dont know why people still run sub c's when you can get li ion for about the same cost (unless you aleady have them).

Prove it. What's your source?

Well lets see.

I purchased these http://www.toolsforless.com/product/7364.html for 131.88

That gives me 20 cells 1500 mah a piece at 3.7 volts nominal.
131.88/20 is 6.60 per cell or to make it easier to compute battery to battery.
2 li ion cells in parallel are 3000 mah. That would be 13.20$
Let take a GP 3300 http://www.maxamps.com/index.html?lmd=38836.584491
6.99 a cell. 6.99 * 3 is 20.97...


3.7/1.2 is 3.08. So to get to 1 li ion cell you need 3 subC batteries.

Hope I didnt screw that up

[Sneeck]

Need one of them special charger's too.

Nice conversion.

[cart213]

Post a pic of your pack, please!

he posted pics of them in this thread http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...?t=2748&page=6

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by Sneeck

Need one of them special charger's too.

Nice conversion.

Actually, you don't. Standard Lipo chargers work, and if you add a standard balancer cable/plug, you can use a standard balancer! But, if these still use the 3.6v charge like older Li-Ions, then you will need a charge program that can do 4.1v. The Multiplex chargers that Mike sells can do the 4.1v/cell charge under the "LiIon" charge setting.

I am using a triton charger. I can do 14.8 or 14.4. Of course I use the 14.8 :).

Resting voltage is 14.75 when done and off the charger .
You really dont need a balancer they are geared more toward li po cells. If your voltage begins to show lower after a charge you can measure the voltage per cell with a meter because these are put together like NIMH cells and use aligator clips to adjust voltage. It is VERY rare to get cells out of balance. I have been using lipos for a few years now and never had one go out of balance enough to worry about.

Ok guys need some input.

It seems that I am only getting about 25 maybe 30 mph with this set up. After 10 min or so it starts to get pretty hot.

A few things I am noticing. The front wheels spin ALOT mpore than the rear wheel. On pavement it takes a good 4 to 5 seconds before the front wheels stop spinning and the rear wheels catch up?? I ordered some 70,000 for the front and center diff.

Am I geared to low and over reving the motor??

it sounds like your geared to low. what are the temps on the batts and controller.

[squeeforever]

I think the 70k should keep your front diff from unloading like that. It might be a tad to thick though.

[MetalMan]

You only need to put that oil in the center diff. Your handling may suffer if you put it in the front, since it won't be able to unload as easily.

Ok.
A few updates.
Went to a 14t pinion. The buggy is quite a bit faster on the top end but it heats up faster (this setup will require a fan). The controller gets warm also. Man I need a temp gun.

Swithed to 5,000 weight different oil. Put it in the front and center diff. Helps out ALOT to keep the front from unloading but could easily go to 7,000 in the front.

Under racing conditions the motor gets hot with the 13t pinion and 46t spur. I need to get a fan.

It was recommenend to me to get a 1950 but I dont want to spend that much.
Is there another option to get good speed (35 to 40) and keep the heat down on a 9 lb buggy on 4s??

Anyone got pictures and links to their fans??

Thanks

[squeeforever]

I think a 9 or 10XL would be perfect depending on what you want, speed or runtime.