Problem with my 380c - RC-Monster Forums

Superbasher · **Problem with my 380c -** 07.26.2006, 09:11 AM

hi all,
ive got a problem with my 380c 7t motor. i can run it for a bit, but when it hits a bump its stops and doesnt move. i wiggle the motor wires and it works again (sometimes) have i damaged one of the wires in the motor? as its not my soldering, as none of the wires are loose wheree ive soldered them.
thanks!
SB

SpEEdyBL · 07.26.2006, 07:58 PM

Does your esc stay on the whole time? Maybe it's really bad cogging. Otherwise I can't think of anything other than it being the motor connection that's the problem.

coolhandcountry · 07.26.2006, 09:09 PM

Make sure it is not the solder where the wire and esc are. I have seen one of these come loose.

squeeforever · 07.26.2006, 09:25 PM

I had the same problem and thought it was my motor wires as well. Turns out it was a battery bar loose.

Superbasher · 07.27.2006, 11:18 AM

speedy- i take it that the steering won't work if the esc isnt on? (im not using an rx pack) and the steering works when the motor doesnt

the solder joints are not loose. i had that problem at first, but there all not loose now. i dunno what else it cold be other than the motor wires to be honest.

SpEEdyBL · 07.27.2006, 06:06 PM

Then I can't help you. Does the motor work again if you spin the wheels a little by hand?

go4gold · 07.27.2006, 08:03 PM

Check to make sure the motor wires are not shorting out on the motor body. Some of the feigao motors have had that problem( I think that they were the 540s). There should be heat shrink around the wires right there.

Superbasher · 07.28.2006, 05:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by go4gold

Check to make sure the motor wires are not shorting out on the motor body. Some of the feigao motors have had that problem( I think that they were the 540s). There should be heat shrink around the wires right there.

i cant take a proper look at the moment, but i remember being able to see some of the copper wire going into the motor (no heatshrink on one of them) i will check them all later when i get someone to open the gararge (being 14 and small is kinda annoying lol i cant reach the top of the door to push it in)
if i find more than one will i have to send it into mike?

Superbasher · 07.28.2006, 10:34 AM

right i had a look at it. what i could see without taking off what the red arrow in the pic below is pointing too i could see no wires without heatshrink all the way (i could only see the red wire where the black heatshrink had moved up a bit, but not the others)
heres the pic:

go4gold · 07.28.2006, 04:48 PM

I would pull the motor and check all of the wires as best as you can. If the blak heat shrink moved up then that could be a likely problem spot.Hopefully somebody will chime in that knows how to remove the rear endbell. That way you could get a better look and fix if there is a problem. If you have an Ohm meter you could check if there is a short between the wires and motor. That would be the easiest way without taking everything apart.

Superbasher · 07.28.2006, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by go4gold

I would pull the motor and check all of the wires as best as you can. If the blak heat shrink moved up then that could be a likely problem spot.Hopefully somebody will chime in that knows how to remove the rear endbell. That way you could get a better look and fix if there is a problem. If you have an Ohm meter you could check if there is a short between the wires and motor. That would be the easiest way without taking everything apart.

i dont have an ohm meter, and i tried removing the rear endbell, vut when ive unscewed the grub screw, it doesnt want to come off? im also going to let my dad re solder it next time i go to his house. if someone tells me how to take the endbell off i will have a look at the wires properly.

MetalMan · 07.28.2006, 05:52 PM

The endbells are threaded on, so you have to twist them to get them off.

squeeforever · 05:55 PM

So did you check the battery bars? I had the same problem, would move the motor wires and it would go for a minute then stop. Over and over again. Took me several hours to find the problem because the bar wasn't completely broken loose.

Superbasher · 07.28.2006, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeeforever

So did you check the battery bars? I had the same problem, would move the motor wires and it would go for a minute then stop. Over and over again. Took me several hours to find the problem because the bar wasn't completely broken loose.

i cant check the bars, as my battery packs have that shrink covering that covers the whole battery pack, and if it was the battery, the steering would stop, and it never does. it always works. i will unscrew the endbell tomorrow and check the motor wires (its 11pm my time) i got it to work a bit though. ive zip tied the wires to the chassis and it seems to work now. i will keep testing it tomorrow to see if it handles bumps.

MetalMan · 07.28.2006, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superbasher

i cant check the bars, as my battery packs have that shrink covering that covers the whole battery pack, and if it was the battery, the steering would stop, and it never does. it always works. i will unscrew the endbell tomorrow and check the motor wires (its 11pm my time) i got it to work a bit though. ive zip tied the wires to the chassis and it seems to work now. i will keep testing it tomorrow to see if it handles bumps.

If the battery bar is loose, then you'd still get steering. A steering servo uses about 2-3amps max., which a loose solder joint can easily provide. But when your motor is trying to draw 30+amps, then a loose solder joint will show itself. I'm not saying that it is a loose solder joint, just pointing out that like squee said, it's a possibility. If you have any other battery(s) to try out, then you can eliminate the battery as the problem.