I realize I could bend it, but I doubt I could do so with the accuracy I want. So, I guess that leaves me with either the use of shims or milling the whole thing. Or, I suppose I could try to file down the necessary section...
Aluminum is some proingy stuff anyway. If you get 100% mesh, it will change under heavy load anyway.
If it makes you feel better, I have a pulling tractor that I can slip a sheet of paper under half a pinion tooth. Its that far out of whack. If I go for more mesh, it turns into a gear muncher.
Yeah, I've messed up a spur or two because of the "give" in the aluminum mount. I'm assuming the mount flexes on jumps due to the weight of the motor hanging there throwing off the mesh. For the buggy, I plan to re-inforce it by securing the mount to the chassis and also screwing the face to the diff holders (where the brake would go), and then support the back of the motor using the scheme glassdoctor uses.
I just figured the angle would be more accurate, even though it's extruded. You'd think there would be a way for the manufacturer to compensate if they knew it was going to be off. I still think the inaccuracy is at least party due because the application it was intended for doesn't need it.
On a somewhat related note; are there any "GOOD 3mm taps"? I got a drill and 3mm tap at my LHS and have broken both in trying to tap screw holes in 10mm thick 6061 (the spacer for my battery trays). Lowe's has a Ti coated set, but it's a big (and expensive) set and all I want is 3mm taps. I ordered some plastic stock so I can just drill smaller holes and have the 3mm screws self-tap.