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IBJAMMIN
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10.29.2006, 07:20 PM

I'm getting ready to convert my CRT to brushless and see there is a problem with pinion gears? I think your pinion problem is caused by chassis flex the nitro crt has a problem also the fix for the nitro motor is a 1 peice extended motor mount. Look into a brace to eliminate the flex in the center of the chassis by eliminating the battery box and brake servo and cutting down the top brace you have weakend the chassis. Grab the front and back of the truck and twist it and see if the pinion and spur mesh changes? :)
   
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squeeforever
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10.29.2006, 07:31 PM

The problem is that the pinion takes all the abuse. Power isn't instant with nitro, but with brushless it is. That is the main problem. I can be cured by simply running a Kyosho plastic spur that Mike sells. It bolts right up to the stock center diff. Welcome to the forums by the way!
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Electric Dave
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10.30.2006, 09:38 AM

It's not flex. I've added a brace to couter that issue. It is as squee suggested. Nitro has a clutch, ours is just instant power. I've had good luck with the Kyosho spur but I'm still working a bug or two out. I destroyed two of them at a recent race, never done that before. I think it may be my motor mount...
   
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coolhandcountry
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10.30.2006, 09:50 AM

It does not take much flex to eat a spur or pinion up though. Very little can
mean disaster.


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  (#80)
Electric Dave
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10.30.2006, 07:55 PM

My feeling is that for this thing to be totally bulletproof it needs a one piece mount for the motor which is attached to/the same as the diff mount. Having a two piece design is asking for trouble. I WISH I had the access to machines to build something like this but I can imagine a lower center diff mount- machined - which had a motor mount on the side of it. As it is now, I'm not 100% sure that I can get the motor and center diff on exactly the same horizontal plane. I'm confident that someone out there has the skills. Funny thing, with all the people converting 1/8th vehicles. I'll be whatever R&D someone invests in making a somewhat universal diff mount/motor mount will be repaid many times over by offering it for sale. Think about it.
   
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scyan
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11.02.2006, 01:49 AM

Are you guys talking about a mount that looks something like that... What if it actually replaced the rear diff mount and brought the motor a little bit closer to the spur... ;) We're in the redesigning stage at the moment... these ones work fine. But we'll get something even better.. hehe

http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n178/charancon/

lmk

Scy
   
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  (#82)
Electric Dave
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11.02.2006, 09:51 AM

YES! How much? Even in it's current form, as long as it fit's the CRT's diff it would work great. It forces the motor and spur to be on the exact same plane in two dimensions. As it is now, my current mout can be off a bit in two dimensions - sounds crazy but it's true. If that one would work for my CRT I would love to buy it...please advise!

And thanks! If it does work I know at least 4 other guys who will want one as well....

David Maffucci
   
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Cartwheels
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11.02.2006, 02:37 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by scyan
Are you guys talking about a mount that looks something like that... What if it actually replaced the rear diff mount and brought the motor a little bit closer to the spur... ;) We're in the redesigning stage at the moment... these ones work fine. But we'll get something even better.. hehe

http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n178/charancon/

lmk

Scy
That's great I was thinking of getting A CRT and doing a conversion myself. I was thinking that I would nice to have a one piece diff mount and motor mount. It's is hard to accomplish that with a drill press and dremel. It can be done, but if you make somthing like that I would rather buy it from you. keep us posted!!!
   
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  (#84)
jammin-crt1
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11.13.2006, 05:53 PM

@ mac have you a video from your car?
or can you post some pics of the jammin?

how long is teh drive time of the lipos?

Last edited by jammin-crt1; 11.13.2006 at 05:58 PM.
   
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RC-Monster Mike
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11.14.2006, 02:00 PM

These are quite easy to make, actually. I recently made one for the XLB buggy for another member(pictures are around here somewhere in the brushless forums). I could bust one out with a picture if you want, Dave. :)
   
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IBJAMMIN
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11.15.2006, 12:26 AM

Well here is what I have came up with so far with my CRT conversion I made my own mount and mounted it to the diff and bottom of the chassis along with the top plate the motor mount should be strong enough to take some abuse. I like the one peice design from Scyan simple and strong. :)

Here's the parts I'm starting with-
Neu 1515 1y motor
Mamba max ESC
2-2s3p 9000mah Maxamps lipo packs
6v UBEC
Ice charger
Kyosho 46t plastic spur gear
I found some aluminum center diff mounts on Ebay for 28 bucks for the Jammin buggy and CRT

I cant wait to see the look on the nitro guys faces when they get smoked by a electric CRT:005:
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  (#87)
Cartwheels
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12.02.2006, 12:40 AM

I'm starting a CRT conversion and I'm curious what pinion are you guys using with the Kyosho 46t plastic spur gear? my motor is going to be a Neu 1515 1y on 4s and a Quark 125B esc.

I was trying the worst case senairo first and I noticed that if I put I put a 9T pinion on the motor and hold it in place the motor hits the diff cup before you can get proper mesh.
   
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  (#88)
Electric Dave
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12.02.2006, 08:22 AM

I'd been using a bunch of Mod1 Pinions from Century Helicoptor Products. I've use the 9 tooth and the 46 spur. Also gone as high as the 12 tooth. I also did the LSP diff swap for the lower ratio.
   
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  (#89)
Serum
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12.02.2006, 08:31 AM

I heard from several persons that these pinions are not as hardened as hardened should be. What's your experience with these pinions? and do you use them with a steel spur?
   
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  (#90)
fishmasterdan
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12.02.2006, 09:26 AM

Ok I have a small tip if you havent tried it yet.

I stipped out TONS of gears like what is happening here. My fix was to simply support the front and rear of the motor. The gears strip under race condition upon impact off jumps. The SLIGHTEST little flex of the motor causes the pinion to strip.

I have done 2 different fixes so far.

Front and rear of the motor. Use aluminum angle and drill it out to the exact size of the motor and bolt it down to the chassy. You will not get any flex of sudden movment. Since I did this I can run 1 set of gears for 10 or more races.

I also used a monster heat sink. I simply drilled a straight piece of aluminum to fit his mounting hole for rear support.

Try those you should get results.
   
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