Quark 125b post thermal behavior

[BrianG]

Well, this is kinda reaching, but the UBEC could be a culprit. After some time loading the UBEC, it will get a little warmer and might change some if its characteristics. Switcher regulators can be "fussy" at times if not designed exactly right. Try adding a capacitor to the power and ground leads of the unused Rx output. This will at least clean up some of the possibly noisy power going to the Rx. If the power going to the Rx is not clean DC, the signal coming out might not be pretty either and the ESC might get confused. Adding a cap is always a good idea IMO; not only does it help clean up the DC, it also provides a little more current capacity so the UBEC doesn't have to work so hard to provide fluctuating current demands. I usually use 1,000uF and 10v to 16v.

To see if this would even help, try using an Rx pack first.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Well, this is kinda reaching, but the UBEC could be a culprit. After some time loading the UBEC, it will get a little warmer and might change some if its characteristics. Switcher regulators can be "fussy" at times if not designed exactly right. Try adding a capacitor to the power and ground leads of the unused Rx output. This will at least clean up some of the possibly noisy power going to the Rx. If the power going to the Rx is not clean DC, the signal coming out might not be pretty either and the ESC might get confused. Adding a cap is always a good idea IMO; not only does it help clean up the DC, it also provides a little more current capacity so the UBEC doesn't have to work so hard to provide fluctuating current demands. I usually use 1,000uF and 10v to 16v.

To see if this would even help, try using an Rx pack first.

Great will do. So see if the rx pack can remove the glitch i get where i have to tap the brake before the truck will go forward. Also, can i get these at radio shack perhaps? Or would you have a link?

[BrianG]

I would use a receiver pack first to make sure it IS the issue. Use a cap or larger capacitance (uF) value along with an extra servo end you may have laying around. Just remove the signal pin (white for Futaba, yello for Hitec, etc). Or, for a few bucks more, just go to your LHS and see if they have one. They might be called something like "voltage protector" or some silly thing, but it's the same.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by BrianG

I would use a receiver pack first to make sure it IS the issue. Use a cap or larger capacitance (uF) value along with an extra servo end you may have laying around. Just remove the signal pin (white for Futaba, yello for Hitec, etc). Or, for a few bucks more, just go to your LHS and see if they have one. They might be called something like "voltage protector" or some silly thing, but it's the same.

OK, will do the rx pack first. It may be awhile before i get my truck back together. Now when i wire this thinkg if that is what is needed. You stated an extra plug. So, would I not wire this to the ubec wires? Can you do a quick idagram for me so I can get a better idea how to do this? thanks Brian!