Hey, that is pretty good run times CHC. I'm wondering what run times I'll be getting with my Neu 1515 1/y?
CHC's motor is only 2000kv for about an L size motor, which is not a very "hot" motor. The 1515 1y is a larger can and higher kv (2200), so I'd say between 25 and 35 minutes depending on driving style, weight, etc.
Can you guys give an estimate what my runtime will be with the C-7XL, with the Quark125B and A123 pack of 5s2p of 16.5volts and 4.6Ah. It's a sort of buggy-truggy ;) ... it's high of the ground, but has 1/8 buggy tires (Badlands). The weight fully loaded will be around 7.5lbs.
Oh, and thats geared to go about 50mph
Any guesses? I am thinking around 15 -20max minutes?
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
CHC's motor is only 2000kv for about an L size motor, which is not a very "hot" motor. The 1515 1y is a larger can and higher kv (2200), so I'd say between 25 and 35 minutes depending on driving style, weight, etc.
The 1512 is definitly a bigger motor than the L can motrs. Much more powerfull also.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
BrianG, so i popped off the power input end of the Quark and looked inside, pretty neat looking for sure. So did you say you would need a 3mm slab of Alum./Copper if I replace the two thermal pads/slab? What is actually holding the whole circuit to the case? Is it purely the thermal pads there? If i were to do this, i would be persuaded to completely seal the ESC right up to make it basically waterproof, and keep dirt out.
If i were to just attach the Quark to an upper aluminum chassis brace that would have alot of thermal mass and heat dissipation capabilities, would i even have to bother with making the thermal adhesive mod? Because there would still be a large temperature differential between the transistor surface and the outside of the case. I like to make things the best i possibly can, and quality is my name. ;)
Would you have any suggestions for using to seal all the holes in the ESC that is not conductive and that is thick applying, such as Silicone Caulking? I think this would work too.
Cheers
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
Yep. The existing slab is ~2mm thick with two pieces of thermal pad (~.5mm each) for a total of 3mm. If you remove the pads, you remove ~1mm of thickness and then the caps prevent the FETs from sitting flush on the case. And yes, the thermal pads are what holds the whole circuit to the case.
I suppose you could waterproof it while you're there anyway. You'll have to use some material that won't weaken or get soft when substantial heat is applied, that won't get brittle after time, and can endure the vibrations and jarring. Maybe epoxy may be a better choice?
You can do whatever mod that makes you feel good. :) I just had good luck with what I did, but I'm sure there are other ways to get the same (or better) results.