1/10th Stadium Truck - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

lipomax · 05.29.2005, 11:26 PM

I don't understand why your motor is running so hot. I run my Basic 5300 with a 17 tooth pinion and even with 11.1 volts, it doesn't run very hot. The controller gets about 190 degrees F and batteries are around 110 and motor is only about 150. I'm flying too.

RC-Monster Mike · 05.30.2005, 09:46 AM

Are you running on a track, Young? Joe is racing, which tends to heat things up a bit more than regular running/bashing.

Batfish · 05.30.2005, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by lipomax
I don't understand why your motor is running so hot. I run my Basic 5300 with a 17 tooth pinion and even with 11.1 volts, it doesn't run very hot. The controller gets about 190 degrees F and batteries are around 110 and motor is only about 150. I'm flying too.

I definitely don't want my controller getting to 190 since the MGM is set to thermal at 194, according to their manual. Also, according to their manual, if the controller is over 158 (and off) it won't turn back on until the temp is below 158. This means that I probably wouldn't be able to change a battery pack during a race unless I left the controller on. I don't want to be in that boat. I don't expect that I'll HAVE to change a battery during a race, but I can't rule that possibility out. If a battery dumps before the 15 minutes are up, I'd rather lose 1 min of the race swapping a pack than not finish at all.

What vehicle are you running that setup in, lipomax?

RC-Monster Mike · 05.30.2005, 10:44 AM

A simple fan on the controller would drop the temps quite a bit as well.

lipomax · 05.31.2005, 12:13 AM

In a T4. If I were racing, I'd use the 2700 or 3500 with 11.1 volts instead though. I like to have TOO much power for bashing. Nothing like going 40 and then gunning and flipping backwards due to the insane acceleration AFTER 40 mph!

RC-Monster Mike · 05.31.2005, 06:12 AM

I'd have to agree with Lipo, here. For racing, I would probably run the xl3600 on that voltage. It will be plenty powerful, but will run much cooler and longer.

Batfish · 05.31.2005, 08:35 AM

I wouldn't mind going 3s lipo and dropping the motor some, but one reason we went with this setup was that I need to be able to run on a 6-cell GP3300 pack and compete against other brushed and brushless systems. At my local track I expect that I will need to stick with "legal" batteries when racing against other electrics. I will be using the FMA Scorpion 2s 6400 when I race against the nitros, so I also need the system to accomodate that.

All things considered, it still looks like the 5000 will do (if the temps hold), or the 4200 will take it's place.

RC-Monster Mike · 05.31.2005, 08:41 AM

For 6 cells or 2s Lipo, the 5000 is an excellent choice. 3s Lipo and the xl3600 would be great for the long mains. The xl5000 on 6400 mah should work quite well also, though.

lipomax · 05.31.2005, 11:28 PM

I personally think the Basic series is MORE than enough power for a 1/10 ST. I have to admit, I've never actually run an XL series in my T4 of MF, but the Basic series has plenty of torque and power for me with the added benefit of being a little more efficient at lower amp draws.

RC-Monster Mike · 06.01.2005, 06:07 AM

I agree, Lipo. For extended runtimes, though, the larger motors will run cooler.

captain harlock · 06.01.2005, 10:41 AM

Will the GT idler fit in the T4 gear box?

RC-Monster Mike · 06.01.2005, 09:05 PM

I think the t4 uses the GT tranny(not 100% sure). If so, then all the parts should be the same.

captain harlock · 06.02.2005, 07:57 AM

Nah, I just contacted AE and they say that the GT idler will not fit in the T4, but if it would then I would've bought the Robinson steel idler gear for the GT and put it in the T4 instead since I'm pretty sure with the 1930/5 inside the T4 will tear up the tranny in a record time and I need to modify it to tolerate the brushless abuse. BTW the truck is ready to kick some b*&t in no time and all what I need is a good power supply to charge my 11 cells pack.
Truly on a semi dead 3300 gp 7c pack the truck was still able to lift the front end even though I've put the receiver pack on the servo to add some wight to the front end, but the thing is still wheeling. Woow. since the first time I've ever posted a thread in this forum I didn't see the true capabilities of the 1930/5 motor and I'm sure it will take my poor T4 to another world of pace and speed. God be with us.