E-maxx Suspension

[Procharged5.0]

No quick answer to that.

If the part starts out in great condition, like an out of the package UE or FLM part I polish with Tripoli on a Sisal wheel then with Jewelers rouge on a soft cloth wheel. I follow that up with hand polishing using Mothers Billet polish and/or Wizzard Polish and Wizzard polished metal protector.

If the metal is anodized, has scratches or deep pits the process starts differently but ends the same way.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by Procharged5.0

No quick answer to that.

If the part starts out in great condition, like an out of the package UE or FLM part I polish with Tripoli on a Sisal wheel then with Jewelers rouge on a soft cloth wheel. I follow that up with hand polishing using Mothers Billet polish and/or Wizzard Polish and Wizzard polished metal protector.

If the metal is anodized, has scratches or deep pits the process starts differently but ends the same way.

The reason I ask is because I would like to polish my slipperential, and my FLM bulks, which come pretty dull. I would also like to do my x braces as well. It seems the 6061 aluminum is more likely to start dull, but would like a better finish on them. Would the Wizard polish and protector do me justice in this? My racer X comes polished, so that ain't so bad! But, I would like the rest to be shiny too! :027:
thanks Man!

[Procharged5.0]

I have an extensive and comprehensive assortment of "polishing tools" at home. I have 5 different compounds, more than a dozen polishing wheels from 3/8" dia up to 8" dia. Plus 6 different polishes, 11 grades of sandpaper (36g - 1000g), 3-grades of scotchbrite, bentchtop buffer w/ 1/2" mandrels, dozens of diferent grades & shapes of files, and numerous other things that escape my mind this morning. To polish things like the trans case and the bulks (both are a bitch to polish and time consuming) you need a wide assortment of materials & tools to do it successfully. I think the results of my work speak for themselves.

To start out though, go to your local homecenter , SEARS, or industrial hardware store and pick up ENCO polishing wheels and compounds. You can use a power drill but will need a way to secure the part without damaging it to polish it.

You can also locate a used motor, like from a dryer, mount it to a workbench and buy a 1/2" arbor adaptor. (1700-2500 rpm works well)Then you hold the part while you polish it.

Does any of this help????

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by Procharged5.0

I have an extensive and comprehensive assortment of "polishing tools" at home. I have 5 different compounds, more than a dozen polishing wheels from 3/8" dia up to 8" dia. Plus 6 different polishes, 11 grades of sandpaper (36g - 1000g), 3-grades of scotchbrite, bentchtop buffer w/ 1/2" mandrels, dozens of diferent grades & shapes of files, and numerous other things that escape my mind this morning. To polish things like the trans case and the bulks (both are a bitch to polish and time consuming) you need a wide assortment of materials & tools to do it successfully. I think the results of my work speak for themselves.

To start out though, go to your local homecenter , SEARS, or industrial hardware store and pick up ENCO polishing wheels and compounds. You can use a power drill but will need a way to secure the part without damaging it to polish it.

You can also locate a used motor, like from a dryer, mount it to a workbench and buy a 1/2" arbor adaptor. (1700-2500 rpm works well)Then you hold the part while you polish it.

Does any of this help????

Oh yeah, just need the idea and go from there is all. You did well! Thanks! I have dremmel for the small spaces too. But the wheels you get with it are cheap and weak IMO. But a nice buffer wheel would be good.