Quark fried, blown capacitor...

All of the caps are spoken for.

[suicideneil]

I looked at the truck combo package when I got the Hvmaxx, but for the price the spec wasnt all that amazing:-

Fully programmable battery selection, motor timing, acceleration, brakes and reverse, reverse disable
Instant acceleration from a standing start by using Mtroniks Ltd. optimised motor preperation
A 'return to base' software upgrade facility
Li-Po battery support for 2 to 4 cells
6 to 12 cells NiCAD or NiMH
Automatic sensing of number of cells when using NiCAD or NiMH batteries
Current limit cut-off
3A Hyper BEC
3 Internal Schottky diodes
Auto cut-off computer
Dimensions:-52mmx52mmx22mm
Weight:-112g
COMPLETELY SENSORLESS
The GENESIS TRUCK ESC is capable of an average discharge rate of 80A and a peak discharge rate of 120A making it a very capable & attractive option at such a low price!
The 'return to base' software upgrade enables the user to return their ESC to us to have the onboard software upgraded to the latest spec ensuring your ESC is never superceded!!(Software upgrade notices will be posted in the news section on www.mtroniks.net when made available)

£199.99 for esc & motor- thats $400, I could buy the quark 125b & a good XL motor for less. Though it does look impressive in the videos:-

http://www.mtroniks.net/downloads.asp

I only I had known about RC-monster back then......

[zeropointbug]

Oh yah, I forgot about that controller. That thing is well built IMO. Only if the Quark were built that way, along with usb programmability, and 6s capable, then it would be the dream controller.

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

I looked at the truck combo package when I got the Hvmaxx, but for the price the spec wasnt all that amazing:-


£199.99 for esc & motor- thats $400, I could buy the quark 125b & a good XL motor for less. Though it does look impressive in the videos:-

http://www.mtroniks.net/downloads.asp

I only I had known about RC-monster back then......

Starluck RC used to carry the Mtroniks Truck ESC for something like $165 (that's when I bought mine). For that price, it's not too bad.

They can still be had for that price on ebay.

[jnev]

Would this ESC be recommended, or is it somewhat outdated?

Nevermind... just realized that it is only rated to 4s. :019:

[jhautz]

Its still the only brushless ESC that advertises itself as "waterproof". I had one for a time that I used as a winter snow bashing esc. Actually didn't use it much though. Turns out when there is snow on the ground...its dang cold outside:019: and that kinda takes the fun out of it.:005:

It was solid for 12 cells and a 9L that I used it with. I never thermalled it (of course it was 20 degreees F outside :p ) Even had lipo cut off for up to 4s. Not really that bad, just not enough voltage and current handling for my tastes.

There were quite a few of those that smoked on 1/8 scale stuff though. Mine smoked. I think I also heard of issues with Mtronics and ubec's. The pro version was pretty good in the rustler we had. No problems there.

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

That looks pretty good with the caps on the Quark there, the ones on the MM, the wires look a little small, IMO. How is your Quark mounted to your heatsink exactly?

Where did you get these caps? What brand are they? low-esr?

These are the caps I bought: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...983-ND&Site=US

My Quark is thermal epoxied onto the heat sink which is mounted on the bottom of the top plate. There is a space cut out of the top plate for the Quark. Here are some pics. I need to straighten up some wires. Fans kept blowing out on me. Now that I that fixed I should clean up my wires.

I don't think that those are low esr. The only low esr caps that I could find on digikey's site wouldn't suit this application, unless I just missed them.

Dang, I think your right. I didn't look close enough when I bought them. Spent some time looking for the right ones this morning and they seem to be hard to find. I have found some others, but if I get 10 the price is almost as much as the 200 piece ones on ebay. Those seem to be a good size as well. 10 x 20mm. Some of the others are huge.

[Finnster]

Originally Posted by jhautz

Its still the only brushless ESC that advertises itself as "waterproof". I had one for a time that I used as a winter snow bashing esc. Actually didn't use it much though. Turns out when there is snow on the ground...its dang cold outside:019: and that kinda takes the fun out of it.:005:

It was solid for 12 cells and a 9L that I used it with. I never thermalled it (of course it was 20 degreees F outside :p ) Even had lipo cut off for up to 4s. Not really that bad, just not enough voltage and current handling for my tastes.

My wife's cat barfed all over my Gen Pro I have in the Rustler and it still runs great. Doesn't smell good, but it runs.

Would you be suprised to learn that heating cat puke to 150F still smells no matter how well you try and wash it off?:020:

[BrianG]

Ewww. Too much information! lol

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by Cartwheels

Dang, I think your right. I didn't look close enough when I bought them. Spent some time looking for the right ones this morning and they seem to be hard to find. I have found some others, but if I get 10 the price is almost as much as the 200 piece ones on ebay. Those seem to be a good size as well. 10 x 20mm. Some of the others are huge.

Yeah, because I had looked and looked on Digikey for hours, and could not find any low-esr caps, a few, but they were surface mount type, no good here.

Even if they are not low-esr, they will still do 'something', but nothing like low-esr types, or at least what low-esr are capable of.

Finnster: Yes, too much information! :002: :eek:

[suicideneil]

Yes, cats do have a tendancy to be sick just where you dont want them to; even if you pick them up and put them in the kitchen to be puke up a hairball they will still run into the livingroom and make a mess on the carpet. Cant say the goldfish give me that trouble though....

Cant wait to see how peoples rigs perform post 'upgrade'. Im thinking that in order to get reliable results for comparison (without caps / with caps), that something like a steady run up and down for 10-15 minutes should be done. Measure temps, run time, capacity remaining in batts etc using an eagletree and ICE charger or whatever- plot some graphs with the data. Then solder on the caps, and repeat the test, driving up and down in the same manner. Plot the results again and compare them to the original set; if all goes according to plan then you should get some pleasing results. The key is obviously to minimise the variables as much as possible in order to conduct both tests in the same way, as far as is possible/ practical.