My e-revo brushless edition build - Page 12 - RC-Monster Forums

rawfuls · 07.30.2009, 01:24 PM

I'm guessing the heatshrink you have isn't included? Is it from HobbyCity?

Get to soldering already! :D

mistercrash · 07.30.2009, 01:46 PM

The heat shrink didn't come from HC, I always get it from that little electronics supply store near my home. I will get a company name and SKU number and try to find other distributors. Maybe HC has shrink similar to this. I am also thinking about something to keep the two battery wires separate. I gotta go to work, tomorrow is the big preparation for next week since we're off to an Hawaiian cruise. Be back on the 10th of August and will probably get to work on these.

Aloha!

rawfuls · 07.30.2009, 01:57 PM

How dare you go to Hawaii without giving us a hour written review!

Have fun man over there in Hawaii.... I heard the weinerdog advertising car is banned from there

Pretty funny, let us know about those 5.5mm bullets, I could use some!

And no worries about the heat shrink, I've got some, was just a bit interested since you said that had a rubbery grip, but, I could just double shrink mine, and then put electrical tape, which mine is a bit grippy....

07.30.2009, 03:56 PM

Canadian Tire has heat shrink with adhesive in it, but I don't know if the wall is as thick as whay Mistercrash described.

When it comes to making any solder connection, the proper method is to ensure a reliable physical connection, then solder the connection to seal it against corrosion, etc. Solder is VERY soft.. it used to be 63% lead and 37% tin - both soft metals.

rawfuls - one of the reasons the heatshrink he is using works so well is because of the adhesive - it is likely sticking to the metal suface. Regular heat shrink will likely slip if indeed these suckers hold as toghtly as they can.

With respect to the connectors that are heating up - that's a HUGE sign of a poor connection.. I am working on a spreadsheet right now that will convert between Watts and temperature.. Anyways, if they are hot, it's bad...

rawfuls · 07.30.2009, 05:24 PM

So should we hotglue the heatshrink to the connection? Isn't hotglue a very bad conductor, if it even is 1% of a conductor?

07.30.2009, 08:33 PM

Good quality hot glue would work great. Give the connectors a light scuff with 320 grit before you assemble, just so the glue has something to stick to. Make sure the connectors are free of grease and dirt.. Maybe a wipe with alcohol or similar residue free product.

I stress our a lot about high-current electrical connections... ;-)

rawfuls · 07.30.2009, 09:27 PM

Figured so.......

But, HotGlue would end up being too hot for the heatshrink, wouldn't it?

mistercrash · 07.31.2009, 12:45 AM

So here's one way of making some sort of connector for the battery with the two poles separated. A piece of a larger heat shrink with glue inside that I pinched in the middle before I heated it with the heat gun. Once it cooled down, the middle is glued together and keeps the two sides separated. To answer how well this heat shrink with glue in it sticks to stuff, well it sticks really well. It is very hard to take off and you actually have to rip it off bit by bit by completely destroying it.

rawfuls · 07.31.2009, 01:04 AM

I've always thought about that as well, but making it male then female next to each other would be better wouldn't it?

07.31.2009, 06:08 AM

I wouldn't worry about the hot glue damaging the heat shrink, it can take some serious heat... Provided it's of reasonable quality.

The idea of the battery connector having both female sockets is to help reduce the chance of the terminals ever shorting out. I would do it the same way.. But, your logic about using the pins in alternating gender does ensure you would never connect them
backwards...

rawfuls · 07.31.2009, 11:54 AM

And have a nice flaming ball in your hand, that's always neat..

07.31.2009, 03:47 PM

Yeah.. given the current capabilities of most Lipo's... that would be neat to see!

Did I mention I have 'issues' as well as obsessions?

jpoprock · 07.31.2009, 05:30 PM

So, the bottom line for me is... I need some connectors. I had CC 6.5 Bullets that were fine. But I need to choose a "standard" for myself, and go with it. Since my last MMM caught fire, they are sending me a new one, which should arrive any day now. I need to make up some new leads, etc... and need to decide on a connector. Deans will work I gather. I'm running 6s, so it's high current. I also gather that Traxxas High Current connectors will work too, which I like. Castle bullets are fine, as well as the EC3, or is it EC5? I saw at aMainHobbies, that ProTek makes Traxxas and Deans knock off's, but can they handle that kind of current? I run only Lipo and Brushless. I just can't decide! And I don't want to spend hours hotgluing, etc making up good connectors.

On my ERBE, the male and female are reversed, so there is never a question of hooking them up wrong. But occasionally after big jump, the wire will yank itself from the other, coming unhooked. So... what to do? I need to decide FAST.

j

mistercrash · 07.31.2009, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpoprock

I don't want to spend hours hotgluing, etc making up good connectors.

You don't spend hours if you have heat shrink that has the glue already inside it, when you shrink it, the glue melts.

07.31.2009, 06:38 PM

I wish you had a couple months to wait so I could do an actual connector comparison.. I have a good feeling about the big bullets that mistercrash chose. O think my second choice (purely based on surface area) would be the EC5 - which are basically the same ( I think?).

Things to consider when choosing any electrical connector... Contact surface area, connection pressure and safety (reverse polarity protection).