outrunner'd e-revo

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

Very nice, clean setup. Hope you get it all sorted out.

[kevin23]

just ran it again,changing settings until I got the cogging gone.
It turns out the setup was forward/brake/reverse.
I chaged it to forward/proportional w/reverse and the cogging is gone,doesn't heat up any more with the brake either.

Not sure how long it ran on the batt's,I changed the timing all around and played with brake percentages,and punch control just checking to see what these settings do.
I did not see a performance change in the timing,I have it set on low now(5),motor runs cooler and seems to make about the same power as the timing on highest.
I was playing with the punch control to try and get to accelerate hard with out the power wheelies,which are cool as h*** by the way,because on the clay all that translates to is wheel spin,I have it set on 40% and still pulls the wheels,but no where near as "violent"
so far I love it,I give many thanks to Sike for trying this motor and telling us about it.

not sure how long the setup ran,but temps were 150 motor,120 batt's,110 esc.
do these seem to be inline and what they should be?
I also noticed after the throttle cut,I checked batt voltage in each pack.
one pack was 1 volt higher than the other,I didn't think it would do that wired in series.
Is this common or should I be worried?one batt was 6.6 and the other was 5.6 volts

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by kevin23

just ran it again,changing settings until I got the cogging gone.
It turns out the setup was forward/brake/reverse.
I chaged it to forward/proportional w/reverse and the cogging is gone,doesn't heat up any more with the brake either.

Not sure how long it ran on the batt's,I changed the timing all around and played with brake percentages,and punch control just checking to see what these settings do.
I did not see a performance change in the timing,I have it set on low now(5),motor runs cooler and seems to make about the same power as the timing on highest.
I was playing with the punch control to try and get to accelerate hard with out the power wheelies,which are cool as h*** by the way,because on the clay all that translates to is wheel spin,I have it set on 40% and still pulls the wheels,but no where near as "violent"
so far I love it,I give many thanks to Sike for trying this motor and telling us about it.

not sure how long the setup ran,but temps were 150 motor,120 batt's,110 esc.
do these seem to be inline and what they should be?
I also noticed after the throttle cut,I checked batt voltage in each pack.
one pack was 1 volt higher than the other,I didn't think it would do that wired in series.
Is this common or should I be worried?one batt was 6.6 and the other was 5.6 volts

I never really played with the settings as much as you have. I'll have to go back and try the lower timing.

Thank you for your kind words. You're very welcome. I believe this to be one of the most reliable, effecient setups around. The E Revo drivetrain is built to stand up to it also. It should give you many hours of fun.

The temps are looking good. That's more like it!

What Brand, mah, and C rating Lipo's are you running?

I have been running 5000mah 20C Lipos and they hardly break a sweat at all with this setup.

It's not common for one to drop so much lower than the other. Do an individual cell voltage test through the balance lead and see what you come up with.

I would also bump up the lvc some. It's usually not a good idea to discharge lower than 3.0 volts per cell.

Are your Lipo's the same age, same amount of cycles ran?

[kevin23]

batt's are the same age(about 5 cycles)
venom 2s 5000mah 20c(at least what they advertise)
I did check each individual cell,for each pack the batteries were the same voltage.
meaning one pack was 3.3volts per cell and the other pack was 2.8 volts per cell.
the cells are staying in balance pretty good.
I use an gp equinox with my ice to charge the batt's
I have the cell spy from common sense to check the voltage of each cell,I really it,lets me know what is going on with each cell without the risk of shorting the leads together using a volt meter
I am thinking about going with some tp or fp batteries,I can get a pretty good price on them at my work.
I'm thinking the venom's might not be as good as I would've thought

[kevin23]

I just updated the lvc to 12.5 volts,I love the new technology.
I always hated setting the speed controllers up with the transmitter going through the menu it took forever

sorry for this hijack, but moving the throttle deadband from normal to high does what to help excatly? sorry i was just always confused on this

[kevin23]

it seemed to "smooth" out the response at center stick,the truck was kinda jumpy until I changed the deadband.
hope I explained it well enough.
Thanks,
Kevin

hmmm well ill do it and see if that helps thanks

[kevin23]

I just got in from racing at the local track today,truck was faster lap time wise by almost 1 sec.The truck was pulling everybody out of the turns pretty good too,even the truggies.
I kept an eye on the temps,seem to be inline with what i got running it at the house,until the main.
at the end of the 10 min main motor was 180-190,esc was 120-130,and the batt's were 110-120.not sure if I should go down 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion,or if it could be running hot because it may be under geared?
any insight?
Kevin

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by kevin23

I just got in from racing at the local track today,truck was faster lap time wise by almost 1 sec.The truck was pulling everybody out of the turns pretty good too,even the truggies.
I kept an eye on the temps,seem to be inline with what i got running it at the house,until the main.
at the end of the 10 min main motor was 180-190,esc was 120-130,and the batt's were 110-120.not sure if I should go down 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion,or if it could be running hot because it may be under geared?
any insight?
Kevin

Other than temps, great results on the race performance.

I think the problem with temps is in the timing. Modelmotors recommends 24 degrees of timing advance for all AXI motors. Check this link out:
http://www.modelmotors.cz/index.php?page=113

I think perhaps your initial cooler temp reading was maybe for a short run? Longer runs seem to have the temp climbing into the uncomfortable zone.

You could drop a tooth or two and help temps I'm sure, but that's going to take away from your top end.

I have used this setup with no issues pack after pack. I usually run it as hard as I can all the way to the LVC.

I wonder if there are other means that can be built in to the Revo setup to promote motor cooling?

[kevin23]

I will try with adding the timing back in it,it could run hot from too little timing i suppose.
I have seen references to that the motor may be under geared causing it to run hot maybe?
I have seen that in some instances that an overgeared motor may run cool but the esc and batt's run real hot,I am not sure what thread I saw it on,but I have seen it here.
the truck tops out real quick,our straightaway on the track is roughly 120ft,the truck sounds topped out at about half that,had a buddy tell me that he thought the truck was undergeared,was just afraid to try the 23,I didn't have any time today to play with any of the settings either.
I have started working on the chassis so I could fit 2 25c tp 4s 5000 packs on the truck in parallel,runtime seems to be about 20minutes on the 2 2s packs.
Hoping 2 4s packs would increase the runtime past 30min.The state races we have here in florida runs 30min a-mains.
I think I would do better doing the stop-n-go's for pit stops rather than changing packs mid race.It is turning out pretty good so far.
I have to get another tp pack though as I only have one at the moment

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by kevin23

I will try with adding the timing back in it,it could run hot from too little timing i suppose.
I have seen references to that the motor may be under geared causing it to run hot maybe?
I have seen that in some instances that an overgeared motor may run cool but the esc and batt's run real hot,I am not sure what thread I saw it on,but I have seen it here.
the truck tops out real quick,our straightaway on the track is roughly 120ft,the truck sounds topped out at about half that,had a buddy tell me that he thought the truck was undergeared,was just afraid to try the 23,I didn't have any time today to play with any of the settings either.
I have started working on the chassis so I could fit 2 25c tp 4s 5000 packs on the truck in parallel,runtime seems to be about 20minutes on the 2 2s packs.
Hoping 2 4s packs would increase the runtime past 30min.The state races we have here in florida runs 30min a-mains.
I think I would do better doing the stop-n-go's for pit stops rather than changing packs mid race.It is turning out pretty good so far.
I have to get another tp pack though as I only have one at the moment

I tried a 25 tooth pinion with the 40 tooth spur. It cogged on startup and the temps were high. It had more top end, still topped out quickly, but runtimes were shorter. With the higher temps, I figured it wouldn't last.

If you add more battery capacity, along with that is some more added weight. I think I would try the same gearing first, since you're asking it to carry more and see what happens.

Here is a mod that I did to the E maxx. These fans help cool the slipper clutch area and also blow air on the other side of the motor plate.

Perhaps you could come up with something for the E Revo that would help things.

[sikeston34m]

[kevin23]

here is a pic of my progress so far,I have another chassis I can go back to

[kevin23]

That looks pretty good,I will be removing one of the steering servo's to offset some of the weight.I'll be installing a ds1015 servo.
All in all the weight should be the same or little lighter when I'm done compared to stock setup with 7cell nimh packs,truck is a tank setup with nimh's