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Sower
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01.05.2009, 02:08 PM

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Originally Posted by lincpimp View Post
I have had excellent success with plastic spurs too. But by the look of the pic the motor is adjusted all the way close to the spur and the mesh still looks a bit loose to me. Maybe not, but that is what I se in the pic. He is most likely using the 44t spur, so the 46t may help with the mesh issue.
Totally agree - this seems like it can only be a mesh issue. Assuming nothing is binding in the drivetrain. Even then, I would imagine the motor would power through it and the drivetrain issue would end up breaking something in the drivetrain rather than strip the spur.


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tha5150
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01.05.2009, 02:26 PM

wow guys, thanks for all the help so far. i am going to order the 5mm bore, Mod1 pinion with the 46t Kyosho spur. a few of each. we will start from there and hope things work out.

yes i know this is dirty. i had it at the track 2 days before i just brought it back and haven't cleaned it. although when i first got it, i took it all apart and cleaned everything. looked beautiful. but once i got to the track it was back dirty again within 5 seconds. obviously.

how do you keep everything so clean? do you completely tear everything down after each run? forgive my thoughts, but thats seems a bit much to have to clean every time you run.


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tha5150
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01.05.2009, 02:29 PM

oh, of course. Pinion is out of stock at 16t


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Sower
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01.05.2009, 02:32 PM

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Originally Posted by tha5150 View Post
how do you keep everything so clean? do you completely tear everything down after each run? forgive my thoughts, but thats seems a bit much to have to clean every time you run.
One thing I've done is create a custom mud guard for my XT8 at the front of the chassis. I also put velcro on the sides of the body and side mud guards to keep the body tight. Here's what I mean:



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ssspconcepts
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01.05.2009, 02:36 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by tha5150 View Post
wow guys, thanks for all the help so far. i am going to order the 5mm bore, Mod1 pinion with the 46t Kyosho spur. a few of each. we will start from there and hope things work out.

yes i know this is dirty. i had it at the track 2 days before i just brought it back and haven't cleaned it. although when i first got it, i took it all apart and cleaned everything. looked beautiful. but once i got to the track it was back dirty again within 5 seconds. obviously.

how do you keep everything so clean? do you completely tear everything down after each run? forgive my thoughts, but thats seems a bit much to have to clean every time you run.
I don't do a deep cleaning after each run...just when it's needed. I do use compressed air after each run to blow the dust and debris off the chassis and out of my electronics.

During a deep cleaning, I use a lot of elbow grease, compressed air, gun cleaning brushes, Remington gun action degreaser, and then finish up by re-lubricating all parts that I use the degreaser on. A little WD40 doesn't hurt...but remember WD40 is technically not a lubricant...its application is for water displacement.

After I take one of my trucks out mud bogging, I remove the electronics and then use the high pressure sprayer to blast off the mud. After that, I do a teardown on all of the drivetrain components and put the WD40 to work. Then re-lube and re-assemble.

May not be perfect but it works for me.

Last edited by ssspconcepts; 01.05.2009 at 02:39 PM.
   
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tha5150
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01.05.2009, 02:36 PM

now THAT looks clean.

how do you get it so clean though? yea i would like to keep it clean but isn't there another way of cleaning besides a rag and simple green AFTER you take every last screw out?

but like on the insides of your tires, they look brand new..



would an air pump work at the gas station???


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Last edited by tha5150; 01.05.2009 at 02:37 PM.
   
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ssspconcepts
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01.05.2009, 02:43 PM

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Originally Posted by tha5150 View Post
now THAT looks clean.

how do you get it so clean though? yea i would like to keep it clean but isn't there another way of cleaning besides a rag and simple green AFTER you take every last screw out?

but like on the insides of your tires, they look brand new..



would an air pump work at the gas station???
Air compressors go for about $100 at Sears or Northern Tool and Freight....gas staion would probably work if they let you use the one that the mechanics use to power their pneumatic tools.

Last edited by ssspconcepts; 01.05.2009 at 02:44 PM.
   
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tha5150
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01.05.2009, 02:50 PM

i was referring to the compressor you pay 75 cents for. lol


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BrianG
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01.05.2009, 02:54 PM

Gas station compressors usually are fitted with the tire-inflation tip. You'd need to devise something that will push the little pin (to release the air), yet not interfere with focused airflow. Just go get a cheapie compressor!
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tha5150
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01.05.2009, 02:56 PM

100 bucks isn't in my budget.. well thats a lie.. truth is i just got married and she will say no. lmao


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BrianG
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01.05.2009, 03:04 PM

Just get her some nice shoes and then she can't say no...
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tha5150
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01.05.2009, 03:09 PM

kinda like these??? hahaha



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01.05.2009, 04:30 PM

May sound funny, but an old toothbrush and a clean rag go a long way w/o needing to tear everything apart. The photo I posted was after a full tear down cleaning and some new wheels

Although a good 3M green brillow pad will make your wheels look almost new.


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Sower
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01.05.2009, 04:31 PM

Actually those wheels weren't new in that photo - just cleaned with a scrub brush and brillow pad.


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BrianG
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01.05.2009, 04:34 PM

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kinda like these??? hahaha

Mmmm, yeah!
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