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RC-Monster Brushless
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Posts: 2,436
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Edmonds WA
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05.17.2009, 08:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mk351e
thanx to all. I think I'm gonna try 2000kv rx8 combo and see what happens. Anyone interested in a tekno neu 1515 1y for sale?
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I might be - sent you a pm.
Losi 8T 1.0, Savage Flux - XL style, LST XXL, Muggy, 3.3 E-Revo Conversion and sitting outside 425hp, 831 Tq Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel. It SMOKES
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RC-Monster RC8T
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Posts: 2,554
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Syracuse, New York (Camillus)
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05.17.2009, 09:03 PM
Yes a bigger motor will run cooler. Would you put a 2.0L 4cyl in a F-350 Super Duty? A 120HP motor will move that 6500Lb truck easily, it won't do it with any kind of performance, it's be slow as hell and over heat the motor and it wouldn't last long. A bigger motor is capable of moving a bigger heavier truck much easier with less heat and a longer life. A bigger motor is capable of producing the same amount of power as your smaller one without heating up as much because it isn't working as hard, bigger rotor equals more torque, and a bigger can has more surface area to dissipate the heat better.
RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
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KillaHurtz
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Posts: 2,958
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bucks Co, PA
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05.17.2009, 09:24 PM
^^^ yeps
Plus you wrote in the stipulation that you want a cool system no matter what. You just aren't going to get it w/ that sized of motor w/ that level of power demand (maybe if you went to a high voltage setup, but not on what you got now.)
I don't see how just switching one brand of motor for another is really going to get you anything. Neus are arguably the best motors on the market. Ditching it for a Tekin that is 200kv lower isn't going to do much for you.
If you really want that much power, need a bigger motor to play safely. Someone here has a 1521/ 1Y (1600 kv) for sale. I would just get this. Tone down the insane rpms, and use the greater TQ to pull the gear, esp w. the gear limited Muggy. A 1521 on 6S, that bitch will be fast. Not sure your batts are up to it, but thats another story.
Personally I would just do this first, and not waste my $$ swapping around escs and all that. I'd save the money for bigger batts down the line. The controller should be fine. Else drop to 5S like Mike said and be happy w/ what you've got.
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KillaHurtz
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Posts: 2,958
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bucks Co, PA
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05.17.2009, 09:43 PM
Oh, and castle is FOS. There have been a few arguments about this.
On one hand they tell people to rev the motors to the moon, and gear for 80mph and their system will handle it. It can handle anything.
When stuff breaks they say people shouldn't abuse their hardware, and what did they think will happen. People should visit forums on how to get up their cars. They can't possibly guess what will work where.
Alot of having their cake and eating it too I think. Castle is good, they just seem quite stubborn on this point. Take what they recc w/ a grain of salt.
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RC-Monster just don't get it
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Posts: 147
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central NJ
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05.17.2009, 11:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Revonut
Yes a bigger motor will run cooler. Would you put a 2.0L 4cyl in a F-350 Super Duty? A 120HP motor will move that 6500Lb truck easily, it won't do it with any kind of performance, it's be slow as hell and over heat the motor and it wouldn't last long. A bigger motor is capable of moving a bigger heavier truck much easier with less heat and a longer life. A bigger motor is capable of producing the same amount of power as your smaller one without heating up as much because it isn't working as hard, bigger rotor equals more torque, and a bigger can has more surface area to dissipate the heat better.
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I sure wouldn't put that motor in that truck, and it sure wouldn't move that truck easily! I was asking an honest question, not making a point, and the reason is that I just really don't get it. The reason I don't is that the motor has so much torque that I can flip the truck and land on the wheels again, and if I gear higher, it is so fast that above 60ish, it REFUSES to stay on the ground; SO, I don't see how I need more torque. I'm not saying I DON'T, just saying I don't GET IT.
And I kinda still don't, for the reason stated above. Sorry. Am I dumb for this??
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RC-Monster RC8T
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Posts: 2,554
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Syracuse, New York (Camillus)
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05.17.2009, 11:32 PM
It may be hard to tame the power of a brushless motor, for that you'll need a smooth trigger finger. Brushless motors don't know their own strength and will work themselves to death. It's very hard to put it in words but there are some simple rules you must understand. If your system is running hot enough to burn something up you have something wrong period!!! If your melting down motors and ESCs you are asking to much of them. Either your vehicle is to heavy or your geared to high causing the motor to draw a lot of current, that current also passes through the esc. You need a bigger motor on higher voltage that will draw less current for the same speed or get reasonable with your speeds and gear the smaller motor for a reasonable speed. A Muggy at 55MPH will most likely be unstable and hard to control and I will be the guy to say it, you could hurt someone or do lots of property damage with a 13Lb truck going that fast that is out of control! IMHO get a bigger motor, it'll last you longer because it won't be working as hard, gear the truck for 35MPH and work up from there until your components start getting to warm and then drop back down a tooth. Then be happy that you have a setup that stays cool and isn't breaking down all the time and deal with the fact that your not hitting 55MPH!!! You asked for help and we are all telling you the same thing yet you won't listen.
RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
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RC-Monster just don't get it
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Posts: 147
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central NJ
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05.17.2009, 11:44 PM
fair enough, I've been known to have a head like a rock!
ok, SO, I'm willing to go down to 50mph. As for safety - I agree, and I take that VERY seriously - we all should. I agree that something is wrong here, that's why I've asked Castle what is wrong with my setup about a dozen times, and they INSIST that my setup is spot on. Well, if it is then the MMM sucks, but if the MMM doesn't suck, then my setup is wrong. Either way, I'd really like to have an RC car that works, but something is wrong!
I haven't really been melting anything necessarily, my ESC just keeps dying (same thing?). Never actually MELTED something. Motor temps are highish, but closely monitored with telemetry, and my battery temp has never been an issue, even on a hot day. So, what would YOU do? I want to go 50 all day in a Muggy. What motor/battery spec (6S max)/ESC would YOU get??
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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Posts: 433
Join Date: Oct 2007
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05.17.2009, 11:55 PM
The only thing I can come up with is the batteries might not be up to the task of 55mph. Its already been said, but 55mph and such a heavy truck is pulling serious power. Maybe the ripple current is getting you where the batts arent up to the task and smoking controllers. I personally run the 2200 on 5S and it stays nice and cool in my emaxx. I think the 2200 on 6S is a bit much, but I think Castle says its a solid setup.
I have been running the MMM on 4S and 5S and have had good luck with the V3s. I have run them enough times now to know the MMM is a solid speed control. The V2 did have the BEC problem which has been well documented and it happened to me so I am a believer, but the controller hasnt failed on yet.
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RC-Monster RC8T
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Posts: 2,554
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Syracuse, New York (Camillus)
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05.17.2009, 11:57 PM
I beleive that the MMM will do the job. I would try picking up a 1521 1Y motor, batteries must be capable of at least 150A continuous and I still wouldn't gear for 50MPH as you must account for the tire ballooning out at those speeds. I don't know the exact setup of a muggy so I won't make a definant gearing suggestion, but I will suggest gearing for 40MPH and see how that works for you.
RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
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RC-Monster just don't get it
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Posts: 147
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central NJ
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05.18.2009, 12:00 AM
ok, but how many cells would you suggest?
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RC-Monster RC8T
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Posts: 2,554
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Syracuse, New York (Camillus)
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05.18.2009, 12:04 AM
6s an the higher voltage geared for the same speed is going to draw less current
RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
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Check out my huge box!
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Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
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05.18.2009, 12:17 AM
Ok, since I have a muggy, and run 6s, and run a MMM maybe I can give you some info.
I run a 1600kv hacker xl motor, similar in power output to a 1515. I am currently geared for mid 40s. My system will get the motor up to about 150f, and will get the fan on the MMM running to. I use flightpower 4500 30c 6s batts and they will get up to 130f. All that tells me is that my setup is working the batts hard. Loots of draw on startup, and lots to put back in under heavy braking. I have a feeling you may stop cooking escs if you step up to a better lipo. Something ;ike a 5000 30c 6s pack. If you still want 50+ mph 6s is the way to go, as it will allow lower gearing than 5s and help with voltage spikes under load.
My buddy runs a savage (not light) with the 2200 combo on 5s and it runs cool and does well, even geared up at 50. We geared it back down as it was a handful.
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RC-Monster just don't get it
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Posts: 147
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central NJ
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05.18.2009, 12:25 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp
Ok, since I have a muggy, and run 6s, and run a MMM maybe I can give you some info.
I run a 1600kv hacker xl motor, similar in power output to a 1515. I am currently geared for mid 40s. My system will get the motor up to about 150f, and will get the fan on the MMM running to. I use flightpower 4500 30c 6s batts and they will get up to 130f. All that tells me is that my setup is working the batts hard. Loots of draw on startup, and lots to put back in under heavy braking. I have a feeling you may stop cooking escs if you step up to a better lipo. Something ;ike a 5000 30c 6s pack. If you still want 50+ mph 6s is the way to go, as it will allow lower gearing than 5s and help with voltage spikes under load.
My buddy runs a savage (not light) with the 2200 combo on 5s and it runs cool and does well, even geared up at 50. We geared it back down as it was a handful.
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What the hell took you so long dude?? I always look for your responses! I guess people are right, and I should step the battery up - zippy has a 5000 6S 30C, so I'll get that. However, why is it that battery temps have always been good for me, depsite the low C rating? Is it because I have punch control set way high (or was it low - just so that I can only pull a wheelie from a hard start) and brake power at only like 50%, or is the C rating very conservative on this enerland based pack??
Also, while I like the idea of 6S, as I believe it's better to push the truck with voltage instead of current (which may be completely wrong), is 6S killing ESC's ya think? Is 5S safer for it, despite the rating?
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KillaHurtz
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Posts: 2,958
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bucks Co, PA
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05.18.2009, 12:47 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mk351e
ok, but how many cells would you suggest?
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BTW, are you using the 18T pinion when you are smoking the ESCs? Are you running 40 series tires? How hot is the motor? Could be that you are just way overgeared and putting too much stress on the esc and smoking it. The motor may be staying coolish, but the esc will fry. I would have expected those batts to cook a bit, but if they are staying cool then perhaps you are not stressing them too much. Maybe.. Linc could be onto something too. IDK from the provided info.
If you back down on the speed/gearing a bit, your setup should be fine. Pavement is a pretty easy place to drive. Grass driving gets things really cooking. Use trug/maxx sized tires and that will help a lot as well. If you want more, something will have to change.
The only muggy I drove was still nitro, and it was a big fat bitch. Takes alot to get those moving. As linc describes his setup, just for mid 40s it takes a ton of power, and it works the system pretty good.
If I was doing a Muggy for mid 50s reliably, i would go 8S (30C 4000mah+), 1521, and an MGM. I like to over-engineer FWIW, but I don't blow my $hit up either. Good luck trying to keep that hellcat under control tho
Last edited by Finnster; 05.18.2009 at 12:50 AM.
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KillaHurtz
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Posts: 2,958
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bucks Co, PA
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05.18.2009, 12:53 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mk351e
What the hell took you so long dude?? I always look for your responses! I guess people are right, and I should step the battery up - zippy has a 5000 6S 30C, so I'll get that. However, why is it that battery temps have always been good for me, depsite the low C rating? Is it because I have punch control set way high (or was it low - just so that I can only pull a wheelie from a hard start) and brake power at only like 50%, or is the C rating very conservative on this enerland based pack??
Also, while I like the idea of 6S, as I believe it's better to push the truck with voltage instead of current (which may be completely wrong), is 6S killing ESC's ya think? Is 5S safer for it, despite the rating?
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Where in NJ are you? There are tons of dudes around there, and perhaps someone can look at it in person. Even hook up an eagletree and get some good info instead of making a bunch of guesses.
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