1515 2200kv heat issues in buggy

[Manne]

Check your solderings and connectors, a connector that is old and worn will work like a resistor. Maybe you are undergeared? My Erbe were running hot when it was geared for 40, geared up to 45 and problem solved... These 4pole motors don´t like to rev high they like to work with the torque. I hope you will solve the problem.

[nuz69]

Originally Posted by Manne

My Erbe were running hot when it was geared for 40, geared up to 45 and problem solved... These 4pole motors don´t like to rev high they like to work with the torque. I hope you will solve the problem.

I do not agree with this statement . To really sense the effect of an undergeared motor, you need to gear it very very low (15-20mph), and be constantly on full throttle, like a motor pushed full throlle with no load. All the vehicle I see are running cooler with a lower top speed.

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by nuz69

I do not agree with this statement . To really sense the effect of an undergeared motor, you need to gear it very very low (15-20mph), and be constantly on full throttle, like a motor pushed full throlle with no load. All the vehicle I see are running cooler with a lower top speed.

I agree with Nuz69.

Higher gearing means more load, and usually means more heat.

[KniteWulfe]

i was wondering about my connectors too, especially the esc battery connector. Its possible I had a bad joint somewhere and it got worse with usage causing the low voltage issues and the cogging. I really don't think my gearing could cause cogging on this motor in a buggy.

I don't see how that could be the source of the heat issues though, but certainly should be investigated. It would be more probable than having 2 bad 4s packs and 4 bad 2s packs.

Still going to order some high quality packs, any recommendations between hyperion 5000 30c, polyquest 4500 42C or polyquest 5050 35C?

[nuz69]

+1 on hyperion, 5000mAh 25C G3 is well enough for a 4S buggy ;) You said earlier that you have done the test with 2 different ESC + motor combos with same problem ? You should definitly check the batteries or the motor mount.

[KniteWulfe]

Originally Posted by nuz69

+1 on hyperion, 5000mAh 25C G3 is well enough for a 4S buggy ;) You said earlier that you have done the test with 2 different ESC + motor combos with same problem ? You should definitly check the batteries or the motor mount.

Could you be more specific about checking the motor mount? I don't see anything out of the ordinary.

[pinkpanda3310]

Originally Posted by KniteWulfe

i was wondering about my connectors too, especially the esc battery connector. Its possible I had a bad joint somewhere and it got worse with usage causing the low voltage issues and the cogging. I really don't think my gearing could cause cogging on this motor in a buggy.

I don't see how that could be the source of the heat issues though, but certainly should be investigated. It would be more probable than having 2 bad 4s packs and 4 bad 2s packs.

If it was a bad connector then you would have more than one. It is the same problem with 2 different esc's and a number of batteries.

[KniteWulfe]

I changed my connectors today and noticed on my esc terminal there was a nasty gouge on both prongs, one side looked like it was barely making contact with only about a mm of the tab. That may be the source of the battery issues, but I won't know for sure until track testing. I changed over to the 4mm bullets instead of the traxxas I was using.

[KniteWulfe]

Well now I'm about ready to give up... Today My heat problems seem to have migrated to my ESC. I was running a 14T pinion and was only able to get about 2000mah out of my 4500 packs before I got severe cogging and the esc would shut down. I thought it was lvc but I wonder if it was thermalling. I touched the esc and burned my finger pretty bad on the motor connectors. The heat gun read 200 on the esc and 150 on the motor. The motor wires were really hot. The battery wires were warm but not hot.

Same setup as before but I never saw over 165 on my esc. Even when my fan died it only hit 170. The same batteries run fine in my mbx5r conversion with my 1512 1800 and mmpro.

Another odd thing, my 1800 only hits 160 and esc 140 in the mbx with 10* timing, but the same motor and same gearing but 0 timing in the mp9 with the MMM the motor hit 190 and esc 160. Also no cogging issues at all in the mbx.

I'm going to try the mmpro in my mp9 next weekend and see what happens. I'm beginning to suspect my MMM is the culprit in all this.

Could be the ESC struggling. That would explain the sudden heat increase with pack depletion. Could be some dodgy (or previously overheated) caps that aren't up to the job and are causing the cogging which is driving the heat up...

[kingdomracer]

I run the 1512 1800kv and MMP w/Polyquest 4500mah 45c 2s in series for 4s in a Losi 8 2.0 buggy.
I have no issues with my setup and would highly recommend the batts. Motor temps are around 150*-160* after 20 min mains. I do like using nothing but 6.5mm bullets from Castle for ESC, Motor, Batts. I like knowing there is a much less chance of resistance when using the larger bullets as they keep their shape way better than smaller bullets and offer way more of a contact patch. Couldn't hurt to try.
I also use the Thunder Power's 3200mah/40c 4s batts in parallel and highly recommend these as well.

[KniteWulfe]

Originally Posted by kingdomracer

I run the 1512 1800kv and MMP w/Polyquest 4500mah 45c 2s in series for 4s in a Losi 8 2.0 buggy.
I have no issues with my setup and would highly recommend the batts. Motor temps are around 150*-160* after 20 min mains. I do like using nothing but 6.5mm bullets from Castle for ESC, Motor, Batts. I like knowing there is a much less chance of resistance when using the larger bullets as they keep their shape way better than smaller bullets and offer way more of a contact patch. Couldn't hurt to try.
I also use the Thunder Power's 3200mah/40c 4s batts in parallel and highly recommend these as well.

Yeah that setup works awesome in my mbx. Ill be trying it in my MP9 to try and isolate the source of the problem. If it works well, I'll have to send in my 2200 combo again I guess.

[What's_nitro?]

I just read the whole thread, and it sounds like your motor was bad from the start. A shorted winding in a motor WILL cause short runtimes/hot components/cogging no matter what your gearing/voltage/ESC settings. A bad ESC could have the same effect, but I think if it were the ESC you would've seen smoke by now.

Edit- Hmm actually you did say you tried another motor/ESC right? Is it possible they might be bad, too?

[KniteWulfe]

This is my second MMM 2200 combo. The first was replaced under warranty, the esc came apart and tore the wires from the board and the motor was testing out to 2700kv and running hot all the time.

My current symptoms were a bit different. The motor was fine and leveled off at about 140* until about halfway through the pack it would suddenly heat up and keep climbing to over 200 by lvc. Then I started getting cogging and power loss at about that same point but i had a heatsink and fan on the motor to prevent damage but esc temps were still under 160. Now the motor doesn't heat up because the esc is thermalling at about that same halfway point all of a sudden.

[What's_nitro?]

Weird... Well, if you've checked all the connections and they look sound, then I think you got a bad ESC and/or motor...(again?) Are the settings on the new ESC the same as before? High timing/start power would cause this with in-runner motors. Maybe try re-updating the firmware incase there was a glitch somehow.

Sorry to sound like a broken record. If the car coasts smoothly while off power then I don't think it's a drivetrain issue, unless, like you suggested, there is some strange on-power flexing going on.

Could you post a couple pics of the setup? It might help us help you.