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BrianG
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03.10.2007, 11:27 PM

The motor might not have enough rpm to get it to shift into second since the stock nitro engine gets upwards of 50k rpm. Try lowering the shift point a bit if you still can't get it to shift.
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entjoles
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03.10.2007, 11:29 PM

cool thats a good idea, ill do it and see when i get it running

but i did shift into second when it was off the ground and freewheeling

the batterys i ran it on sucked, when i went to full throttle it would cut out , i tried it on 2 2k packs that were like $15 each so when i get my lipo it will be great, i hope

Last edited by MetalMan; 03.10.2007 at 11:53 PM.
   
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BrianG
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03.10.2007, 11:41 PM

Shifting in the air is a bit different since there is no load and the motor is more free to get to high speed. On the ground, you have more load and even some wind resistance.

Granted, good batteries can make a difference, but don't be surprised if it doesn't shift. And anyway, you probably don't want the motor to spin too fast since efficiency drops at high rpms. It might be better to shift lower anyway.
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entjoles
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03.10.2007, 11:45 PM

thanks ill lower it for sure, is it possible to almost eliminate 1st by setting the shift point really low?
   
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BrianG
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03.10.2007, 11:49 PM

I don't think so. I know if you shift it too low, the adjustment setscrew, spring, and little ball bearing in the clutch will fall out so be careful. I'm sure you don't want those parts floating around in there. :)

I removed first gear altogether because I wanted motor braking and reverse, so I never got to play around with it.

No matter what, I'd make small adjustments and see what works the best. You might find that you don't need first gear at all. :) And if you do go the single speed route, you can install the close-ratio gear set so second gear won't be quite so high.

Last edited by BrianG; 03.10.2007 at 11:50 PM.
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entjoles
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03.10.2007, 11:51 PM

thanks for the advice, ill be careful, and maybe lock it later but for know i want to try the frt and rear mechanical brakes
   
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BrianG
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03.10.2007, 11:57 PM

Your motor will probably stay cooler with 2 speeds and you'll have even better low speed performance, especially since you're using a sensored setup.

And even if you lock the tranny, you can still use mech brakes if the ESC has the ability to disable motor braking.

I've looked at the 2 speed clutch and there is a little round plastic plug that acts like a thread locker for the set screw. If the set screw loosens beyond this point, then it may loosen while running and fall out. Once you get the shifting where you want it, it might not hurt to use a little lock-tite on the set screw...

Last edited by BrianG; 03.10.2007 at 11:59 PM.
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entjoles
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03.11.2007, 12:11 AM

cool , if i need more speed i can always change to standard or wide ratio gear sets and then locktite it , maybe ill adjust it a little , but running cooler sounds good to me, i have the novak lvc on it and want to run about 15-20 minutes bashing at a time and dont want to worry about it getting to hot, but it is probably ok, its geared 15/40
   
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BrianG
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03.11.2007, 12:29 AM

I'm running a 10XL on 14 cells with the tranny locked into second with the wide ratio gear set and 40T spur/ 14T pinion. My motor temps are about 130 after some hard running. The HV motor is a little smaller lengthwise if I see it right so a little extra cooling might be nice.

Good luck and keep us posted!
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entjoles
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03.11.2007, 12:36 AM

yeah i want it to run as cool as possible, and get around 30-35 mph, btw what is a good temp range? 120-140
   
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entjoles
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03.11.2007, 12:37 AM

good looking truck btw , must be a handfull
   
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BrianG
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03.11.2007, 12:50 AM

Thanks. It is kinda heavy with all those cells, but I plan on getting some lipos soon. I think the 5s1p 10Ah cells from maxamps should do the trick and be lighter to boot. And they would fit perfectly too. :)
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squeeforever
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03.11.2007, 12:51 AM

Brian, I'm thinking of the same packs for mine. :) Our setups are gonna be somewhat similar. I'm gonna be running a MM, 4S 10ah cells (not sure if I'm going with a 2p yet), 7XL, 2 speed, center diff, rear brakes, etc.

Last edited by squeeforever; 03.11.2007 at 12:52 AM.
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BP-Revo
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03.11.2007, 01:25 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeforever
Brian, I'm thinking of the same packs for mine. :) Our setups are gonna be somewhat similar. I'm gonna be running a MM, 4S 10ah cells (not sure if I'm going with a 2p yet), 7XL, 2 speed, center diff, rear brakes, etc.
2P 10ah? Dude that'd drive for like 2 hours... I almost want to build a truck just for that purpose. You'd probably have to change bearings before batteries LOL

You could run a whole track day on one pack.

I was running at the track with my 8K's and I got off the track ~3 times during the one run to check motor temps, slightly adjust setup, and help my buddies out. When my pack finally dumped I said "Finally...first pack change of the day" and some guy nearly fell off the drivers stand. He was running GP3300's and a low turn motor and was getting barely 10 minutes a run and I just got like 45 lol. He thought I was changing packs every time I got off.


BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM
   
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BrianG
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03.11.2007, 12:52 AM

Great minds think alike I guess. :)
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