good brushless setup advice

[secondwaiting]

i would like not to have to spend a fortune on a brushless setup, but would the MM/8xL overheat in hot weather (arizona) if drive it for 15 minutes, not racing, just playing.

and again would it overheat if i drove it for two sets of 5000 lipos?

and im bashing but i want a light truck, thats why i was asking if revos are good with playing around

I don't own a revo or emaxx. I prefer 1/8 scale stuff, but a bunch of my friends like the revos. They appear to me to be pretty tough. As far as the suspension goes, I think that the revo has it on the maxx, hands down.

As for the temps, you just have to watch your gearing. I have a general bashing gearing that I use in my trucks and buggies. It's not real super fast, but plenty torque and great for jumping and going over things. For around $200, you can get an esc and motor. To me, that's a helluva bang for the buck. All I was saying was that if you can afford or are even inclined to spend the money on a Quark/Neu system, it is a better system and you won't be disappointed. On the other hand, there are TONS of people running Feigao motors in cars, boats, helicopters, and airplanes. So the motor has short comings. Work around them. I have four vehicles all together and all are running MM/Feigao combos. They run great. Just watch what you are doing and all will be well. I'm just looking at the Quark/Neu because I now know enough to know what I want/need.

[secondwaiting]

thanks. i e mailed mike a while ago and he said the Neu 1515/2.5d motor and an MGM 160/16 was a really good setup. is that better than using the quark? and do i get 2s lipos or 2s2p lipos? or does it all depend on my esc? im looking at getting 5000mAh

The setup that you mentioned is supposed to be a good setup, but if you are just trying to save yourself some money on the Quark by going with the MGM, I think the consensus around here would be to spend the money and get the Quark. Did you ask Mike what it is that he runs? Quark/Neu.

Do your research on the Compro before you pull the trigger. If you like to run with reverse, you might want to go ahead and get the Quark. Many on this forum have said (and I've experinced it) that the Compro has a quirky reverse and most just disable it and run forward only. If you do get the Quark, you will have to make provisions to keep it cool, like mounting it to a heatsink, which Mike also sells.

He's told me that he's run his setup for literally hours, battery pack after battery pack in 100 degree weather, without thermal issues.

Personally, I'd either go with the MM/Feigao setup or the Quark/Neu setup. If you go the MM route, you could always upgrade your motor later. Castle will come out with the fix for the 4 pole motors sooner or later and besides, you could always just go with a Lehner. They also have to become available sooner or later. Believe me, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a MM esc. I'm running mine on 5S right now in a 13lb truck with 40 series tires and it is absolutely insane. I couldn't even try to run it on the track. I'm thinking about getting either a 9XL or 10XL for racing.

[zeropointbug]

If you want more durable batteries than LiPo's, the A123's are a very good choice. They are housed in a decent thick aluminum can, it looks like 1/32 inch. THese are very durable in every respect... charging=tough, physical abuse=tough, low voltage cut-off= don't need it, incombustible chemistry makes these the choice for someone who wants the ultimate in durability.

They are typically cheaper than LiPo. They are more 'bulky', so for a given mah rating, you can run out of room quick. The most you want to use with A123's is 4600mah, or 2 parallel cells, as they are 2300mah each/3.3v, 72 grams.

[SixShooter]

The Revo is a nice truck...I've had mine over a year now along with an Emaxx and Tmaxx. It handles better, easier to work on, and takes a pretty nice beating in stock form comapred to a T/Emaxx. The only hop ups I have on the Revo is RPM axel carriers, upgraded shock ends, and skids. So fair I've only broken an RPM carrier and a few shafts. Now you can throw a little coin at the T/Emaxx and make it bullet proof. There is almost an umlimited supply of parts for the T/Emaxx in both stock or aftermarket. So it's pretty easy to build one on a decent budget. The only parts I broke on the T/Emaxx so fair is shafts and bulks. It's been a while since I broken anything since I installed some aluminum bulks and CVDs. I don't spare my trucks anything but they're still pretty mild when it comes to motors. I'm converting everything to brushless. I have a feeling I'll add to my broken parts once I convert to BL.

[BrianG]

But for the A123 cells, you should have a charger with the proper CC/CV threshold of 3.6v/cell, or use a lipodaptor, or use a CC/CV power supply (I only mention this because I'm sure ZPB will otherwise ;)).

[zeropointbug]

Thanks for that Brian! I forgot to mention that yes, I probably wouldn't even have mentioned either... :027: :007:

[BrianG]

LOL. Just keeping the bases covered. ;)

[secondwaiting]

i think im gonna stick with 5000 lipos, but is 2s what i get or do i need batteries that are 2s2p? and with the quark, do i need a fan too or is the heatsink enough?

and is it hard to wire the BEC into the quark?

[BrianG]

The "p" depends on what Ah and C the individual cells are. If a single cell has enough Ah and C rate, it will work just fine. Let's say you want an 80A constant discharge rate and have 4Ah cells, you'd need a solid 20C rating to get 80A. If they're only 10 or 15c, you might want to go with a different cell that has a higher Ah and/or C rating.

The Quark can get warm depending on what you are running for a motor, gearing, weight, etc. Usually, just an added heatsink is enough, but the sink in the RCM store also has taps to screw on some 40mm fans if it's not enough. I've only used heatsinks (not the one in the RCM store though) and it has been plenty to kepp it cool enough (~130-140*F).

Just wire up the BEC wires along with the ESC power wires on the Deans plug.

[zeropointbug]

Does anyone know what the Quark runs (temp) with a 7XL and 4s LiPo geared around 18/51 in a maxx? I would just like to know so I can get a relative measure of how well my heatsink will work. :027:

[secondwaiting]

what do you mean wire the esc power wires and the bec wires to a deans plug? i know you have to put deans plugs for the batteries..lol i've never wired anything before so i dont know what to do for the motor and esc and bec and even the batteries, i'm a complete noob

Whether you get 2S1P or 2S2P, depends on what configuration gives you what you are looking for in terms of discharge rates and capacity.

If you go with the 5000mAh cells and get the 5000mAh packs, then each pack will be 2S1P. If you want to go with more capacity, then you'll probably go to the 8000mAh capacity packs which are made up of 4000mAh cells in a 2S2P configuration (two pairs of parallel cells in series).

With the Quark, many have told me that a heatsink will suffice, although some do use the fans. Ask Mike how he runs his.

You will need a bec with your esc, especially if you go with a MM. I always use a bec no matter what. It helps to keep your esc running cool. When you wire up the battery connectors in the esc with the deans, just add a connection for your bec so that it can draw power from the battery as well.