Adding capacitors to a Quark 125B

OK, thanks BrianG! I'm going to release it that way. Is there any advantage of heat or freeze when trying the screwdriver trick?

[BrianG]

Not sure, mine was at room temp when I did it.

Once the ESC guts are in your hand, you can slowly work off the heatspreader from the PCB.

Case removed with success! Lower pad aswell. Thanks!!!

[streetracer4046]

Can i use 2 piece of 35v 1000uF?

[BrianG]

Welcome to the forums!

Yes, you can use as many caps as you want. However, make sure those 1000uf caps are low-ESR types. Just look for the 105*C temperature rating on them. If they are 85*C, they won't work.

Also, the more capacitance you add, you are going to get a bigger arc wihen hooking the batteries up to the ESC. You can use a "no spark" mod if that bothers you (use the R/C Calc link in my sig, and then click the no spark link).

[streetracer4046]

Thanks for the reply BrianG

[streetracer4046]

Mine is kyosho MP7.5, is it ok if my motor feigao 8xl (2084kv) with 4s 5000mah lipo & will the Quark thermalled? My gearing 14/46

[BrianG]

With the internal mod and added heatsink (Mike has one in the store specifically for the Quark), it shouldn't thermal. I've never thermalled my Hyper 8 with the same voltage, a 2700 kv motor, and geared 46/16.

[pullinteef]

Originally Posted by BrianG

With the internal mod and added heatsink (Mike has one in the store specifically for the Quark), it shouldn't thermal. I've never thermalled my Hyper 8 with the same voltage, a 2700 kv motor, and geared 46/16.

This is what I don't get, and why I was looking for help on that other thread started today. Are you able to run that setup for 15 mins or more of racing? I can't gear for about 36mph or higher without it thermalling in like 10 minutes. And the case and heatsink do seem to be transferring the heat well. I don't think there is excessive drag in the drivetrain which would've been a possible culprit. And to be honest, I race fine at 34 mph gearing it's just not super quick. Our track has recently switched to two 10 minute qualifiers instead of 3 five minute ones. More track time and fewer races makes the day move smoother. A-Mains are usually 15 minute unless its a trophy race when it's 30 mins. When we used to run 5 min qualifiers I could gear up and not worry about thermalling but now it's tricky to make 10 mins unless I run a 12/46 setup (on RC8 which already has 43/10 diff ratios)

[streetracer4046]

what is the hottest temp of your quark on your setup 2700kv? my quark is 106^C(224F) & motor 6xl (2770kv) on 4s lipo

[streetracer4046]

instead of using thermal epoxy, can i use aluminium putty to stick the heatsink to the FETs?

[BrianG]

pullinteef: I run until the battery dies, which is around 35 minutes for an 8Ah pack. This is my setup so you can see how things are mounted. Temps are never any higher than 150*F on anything. I've since geared down because ~55mph on a track is a little tough to control.

streetracer: I'd stick (no pun intended) to thermal epoxy. I don't know how well the putty transfers heat, and if it is conductive (you don't want this).

[pullinteef]

Hey BrianG, could you let me know the settings on your 125b? Specifically the Battery Type/Torque control/Drag Brake. Or anything else that might effect ESC/motor temps. Thanks.

[BrianG]

I think these are the settings I use:


- Default brake strength (normal)
- Default drag brake (second option up from 3%)
- Battery type is "manual"
- Battery LVC is set to 3.0v/cell
- Torque Selection is Normal 1.
- Neutral range is narrow (makes for a more gradual/smooth start)

[pullinteef]

Thanks. I've been having a hard time keeping temps down on both ESC and motor. My 1512/2D/S died last weekend- not sure if it demagnetized from heat or something else (just stopped after a big jump about 8 minutes into the main, and felt really weird when turning the shaft), so I'm forced to temporarily use my 3 year old 540C-9L motor while the motor gets repaired by Neu. Don't know if it will hold up to 15 minute mains.