rc18t ready to go big. lol!

[t-maxxracer32]

thanks alot man! i will look more tomorow! if you have any tips on the stupid diffs then let me knwo.. i cannot figure out the damn thing

[t-maxxracer32]

heres a video of my problem if anyone can help!!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...35689731&hl=en

Originally Posted by t-maxxracer32

diggity chassis

Have you seen the Exotek TEK18 chassis? It has an optional integrated motor mount/heatsink/gear cover. Definately a sexy chassis

[t-maxxracer32]

actually ya i have! but its a little more expensive idk

[riceman]

From the video it looks like your diffs are either not tuned right or are just shot altogether. I've never been a great fan of ball diffs and much prefer tuning gear diffs with diff oils rather than tension with springs and thrust bearings. Read the manual for the recommended tension on the ball diffs. IIRC it is a certain number of turns out from fully tightened. Eventually a good brushless system will make short work of the stock setup. If you have the funds I highly recommend upgrading to the MIP setup with carbide balls in place of the stock steel balls on the rebuild kit. You'll need two of everything for front and rear diff rebuild.

[t-maxxracer32]

ive been lookin at the super diff and have a question

does it still use that thurst ball crap? i think it is very stupid.. but o well

and also i was wondering... when it sais 1/2 after fully tightened how do you dertermine fully tightened? when you cant turn any more? when it feels hard to turn? what do i hold to keep it from being tighetned too much? its very confusing to how tight it actually has to be..

when the diff is tuned right what is it supposed to do? move freeely? or should the diff be stuck and not be able to move or what? if someone could explain this to me id appreciate it.

sorry if my post makes no sence but i understand it...

[VintageMA]

I had very good luck with the MIP diffs. Never had a stripped spur of pinion in either the front or rear diffs. Make sure you shim the diffs - I remember using two or three shims on the gear side of the diff for a good mesh.

I ran the buggy with a Mamba 6800 on 3s with no problems.

This is what I have learned over the years regarding ball diffs.

Tightening and loosening - you tighten the screw until it stops with "normal" pressure - don't try to crank it down hard. Then you back out the screw 1/2 turn (usually more like 1/4 turn that 1/2 turn for high power BL)

The rule of thumb that I had read about on other forums was this - if you take two small screwdrivers and stick one across each outdrive to hold the outdrives in place you should just be able to turn the diff gear with you hands, but it should be very hard to do.

You have to think of the ball diff as providing the same "slipping" function as the slipper gears do on our larger MTs.

Also - it is important to break-in ball diffs. Go to the xray website here: http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2438. Read through the instructions on breaking-in the ball diff - it is very important you follow this for any ball diff in order to achieve the highest performance.

[t-maxxracer32]

awww see stuff like that i have no patients for.. breakin in crap AHHHH if i get the tec18 upgrade will it have a different type of gearing system?

[VintageMA]

You have a link?

[t-maxxracer32]

http://www.exotekracing.com/tek18.shtml

whatcha think?

[lincpimp]

Sounds like a waste of money if you are going to bash your 18t. Honestly the stock chassis never broke, and I tried to break it. The diff situation will be a problem if you do not upgrade to the mip super diffs. Once you have rebuilt the stock diff a couple of times you will see. Just need a well lit room and a large shallow pan/dish to do the diffs. You also need to shim them correctly so the ring and pinion mesh properly. This is easy(well, easier than rebuilding the diffs!). Makes sure to keep a few sets of the diff gears handy as they wear out the fastest.

[VintageMA]

IMHO - if you have the $140 to spend on this, save your money and spend it on the xray. In the long run you'll spend more money on hop-ups for the rc18 and will just end up frustrated.

[no mods]

no, do not get an xray they are totally lame when it comes to getting any sort of parts. i had a m18pro after the 2nd charge i had to replace all of the foam tires. ok no big deal right? $10 for front, $10 for rear, $10.00 to ship and about 10 days to receive them. 10 days later I sold the car. Pointless to have a car without local parts support. stick with the TA

[VintageMA]

The m18pro is a totally different story. I had one myself and experienced the same thing you did - but keep in mind the m18pro is designed exclusively for groomed carpet tracks. If you drive it on anything else - it really is totally useless.

The M18T is am awesome 1:18 and parts last - including tires.

[Mailman]

If you are staying with an 1:18 I would HIGHLY recommend the Vendetta ST. It is a little bigger and a little heavier than the 18T or the M18t but that really helps in the off road handling. It needs a couple hopups like ball diffs and universals, but after that you don't need anything else. It uses 12mm hex so you can put standard touring tires on it and the gears are completely sealed. It also uses a standard size servo which means you won't be stripping any gears on it as well. I have had pretty much every 1:18 in the last couple years and the Vendetta ST is the only one I have decided to keep - it's that good.