Rpm Knuckles Question?

[coolhandcountry]

I notice that my knuckles still have flex in the arm part. I like to go with something stronger. Take them off and sell them on ebay.

[Mike_D]

I have rpm knuckles, arms and shock towers. All of rpm's stuff is somewhat flexible thats why it does not break so easy.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Originally posted by Mike_D
I have rpm knuckles, arms and shock towers. All of rpm's stuff is somewhat flexible thats why it does not break so easy.

exactly! This is why I don't run the rpm stuff. Too much flex(I like precision handling vs. ultimate durability). The flex in the rpom arms can cause cvds to bend as well. The rpm kuckles are nice, beefy units, but they will flex a bit(this is the nature of the rpm nylon!).

[Sneeck]

I used to run rpm arms and tower's(had knuckles on the way from tower) w/ cvd's... That is a big no no as I managed to bent a ue cvd without any jumping, only spreed run's and tight corner's which I think killed the cvd. Had to upgrade to racer x(the real one) which is the nicest thing you can get suspension wise. Never had a problem since.

You can get alum knuckles, but that might be a bigger no no if you still use rpm arm's. The racer x is great, handles like a dream and it's simply the best out there(not even gonna name integy). Well worth every penny.

[coolhandcountry]

Does any one know the weight difference between stock and the racer x? Well acaully between the rpm and the racer x.

[Mike_D]

Mike would be the man to ask about the weight. I am starting to think that the racer x might be the way to go, or the integy pro 3. I agree with mike i do not like the sloppy feel of the rpm parts i want more precise handling.

[Sneeck]

I weight my racer x, with 4 knuckles and 8 arms including pb's it's around ~480 gram. Don't know how heavy rpm is, but one thing I can tell you is that the arm's are lighter. Knuckles are the heaviest part.

[coolhandcountry]

seems the racer x is the stuff to get. I have to fix rears first though. I don't worry about weight a great deal. I would like to lose a few grams on truck though. I rather have it durible than light. If i get both that is a plus. Thanks everyone.

[Mike_D]

If you wait a bit i think mike is going to carry UE stuff soon. Or maybe go with the integy pro 3. Also mike are you going to be getting in the integy silver pro 3 in soon, thanks?

[coolhandcountry]

I need to fix my rear problem first. Running a straight line don't do me no good if can't even run a line. I may go with integy. I don't race really. I just like it to handle well and be durible.

[Mike_D]

Yeah i don't race either, just run in the yard and street. But i agree i do want my maxx to handle well and from what everyone including mike has said that the UE racer x or Integy pro 3 will work very well for both applications. I also like how light the pro 3 and racer x are, i would like to have under a 10lbs truck if possible.

[coolhandcountry]

Mike was telling me in another forum or some thing. That if you don't race the integy works good. If you race he would get the ue brand. I don't race so. I like the price better on integy. Not only that but i can get them in blue.

[Mike_D]

Yeah i like the silver, and i also like the integy price. Do you run a stock chassis or another brand? Also how many cells do you run with your 7xl?

[coolhandcountry]

I don't have the 7 xl any more. I had bad crash. It messed motor up. I run 18 cells. I running the gmaxx. I right now am making a chassis extension for the front part. I have the rear one. I am running a 14 l on my truck at this momment. I have been running 30 mins or longer on a set of gp3700. I like to go back to a xl version though. What do you have?

[Mike_D]

Right now i'm running a 9l and 9920 on 12 intelect 3600 cells with a stock chassis and the single speed conversion, and of course all my crappy rpm stuff.