brushless 1/5 4wd conversion about to begin! couple questions.

[pinkpanda3310]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

The CC HV boat controllers are pretty rugged even without cooling. I ran a 180HV in a Baja on 8s and 10s with no fan or cooling measures at all and it never got hotter than 120F or so. I would expect a 4wd like this to heat things up a bit more, but the controllers are pretty rugged. People abuse the crap out of these ESCs in big boats with silly voltage and huge amp spikes. High end boat racing is as hard or likely harder on electronics than land use (these 4ft plus boats going 100+ MPH through the water is way more load than this 1/5 at 50mph).

I was always under the impression that boating was less on the electronics 'cause it was a slightly more constant throttle than land use. So they could run higher revs for longer ( with water cooling ) and less amp spikes. Obviously, I was wrong.

Can't wait to see the final product.

[RC-Monster Mike]

When a big boat running high power hits a wave at 50+ mph and comes out of the water, the prop revs out. When the prop re-enters the water, you have a tremendous amp spike - huge load. And while the boat is in the water, the load is much more constant - as well as constantly higher load (water is constantly around the prop - boats don't coast or roll like cars, so there is always a substantial load on the system). Ever try to run in the pool? Tough to go fast due to all the drag. :)

[Ryu James]

i am gonna harden these gears tomorrow. do i use normal or synthetic oil? or does it matter?

[redshift]

(metallurgy) Animal, vegetable, or mineral oil, such as fish oil, cottonseed oil, or lard, used in quenching baths for carbon and alloy steels; removes heat from the steel more slowly and uniformly than water.

As long as it has a high flashpoint, I don't know how much it matters. I think normally it's between 40 and 90 weight standard oil. But they do sell dedicated products if you want to be particular.

It is critical that you shove the part into the oil in one quick motion, or else you may end up with one side harder than the other.

Looking great man!

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by redshift

(metallurgy) Animal, vegetable, or mineral oil, such as fish oil, cottonseed oil, or lard, used in quenching baths for carbon and alloy steels; removes heat from the steel more slowly and uniformly than water.

As long as it has a high flashpoint, I don't know how much it matters. I think normally it's between 40 and 90 weight standard oil. But they do sell dedicated products if you want to be particular.

It is critical that you shove the part into the oil in one quick motion, or else you may end up with one side harder than the other.

Looking great man!

thanks for the tips Redshift.

so this morn i went to Jiffylube and they gave me some used conventional motor oil. it was pure black. went to cnc shop, fired up the torch, got the gears cherry red, and quenched them. it was sweet!! smoke and bubbling like crazy. they turned out great. my gears look just like the ones from RCM now. black instead of the pretty silver like they were. but like Kaz my drive shaft doesnt fit in the reamed area of the gear now. need to dremel out a bit and it will be fine.

also, today i left all my aluminum hubs and the integy disc brakes with my CNC. i am having the hubs customized so that the disc brakes mount up with a "factory like" fit. after the hubs are done, everything thats left to do on the kit i can do in my garage.

i am going to try to get everything else done on the truck while the hubs are at the CNC. should have some pics of mounted motor, esc, and servos soon.

[redshift]

I've never actually quenched anything, just seen it done many times (I'm not a blacksmith but I play one on RCM) but I have a bit of exp with air-hardening steel.

"today i left all my aluminum hubs and the integy disc brakes with my CNC"

I sure hope someone told the machine what to do with them.

Not long now!

[Ryu James]

hey kaz, or anyone else with a rampage,
no matter how much i try to keep my diffs sealed tight they continue to leak diff fluid. and i am not even driving this thing yet!! if the diffs leak when its just sitting around whats gonna happend when they are spinning at 10,000rpm?? i have tried new diff cases and it still happens. it seems it must be a rampage thing. i am just wondering if anyone else has had this issues and if anyone knows what would fix it? thanks.

[aqwut]

Originally Posted by Ryu James

hey kaz, or anyone else with a rampage,
no matter how much i try to keep my diffs sealed tight they continue to leak diff fluid. and i am not even driving this thing yet!! if the diffs leak when its just sitting around whats gonna happend when they are spinning at 10,000rpm?? i have tried new diff cases and it still happens. it seems it must be a rampage thing. i am just wondering if anyone else has had this issues and if anyone knows what would fix it? thanks.

Yeah, that's a weakness for the rampage... there is an upgrade kit somewhere.. ..

[KaztheMinotaur]

I've never had problems with my diffs leaking. Do you have the little rubber o-rings arounds the output shafts? Is it leaking from the output shafts or around the ring gear? The upgrade kit has thicker output shafts...they were breaking around the pin.

I'll get my motor mounts tomorow!

I think I will clean up my hobby room tomorrow morning so I have a nice place to start the Rampage build.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by KaztheMinotaur

I've never had problems with my diffs leaking. Do you have the little rubber o-rings arounds the output shafts? Is it leaking from the output shafts or around the ring gear? The upgrade kit has thicker output shafts...they were breaking around the pin.

I'll get my motor mounts tomorow!

I think I will clean up my hobby room tomorrow morning so I have a nice place to start the Rampage build.

nice dude. i started working on getting my motor mounted last night. might finish tonight or tomorrow.

anyway, i have the upgrade kit. besides my ramp is the v2 which is supposed to already have the upgrades in place. and my diffs do have the little rubber gasket around the outdrives but it doenst fit right. nor is there a metal washer to go over the o ring like 1/8 diffs do. it just has the o ring and then the cross pin that goes through the outdrive shaft. i tried putting a washer over it but then i cant get the cross pin thru. anyway, i will figure somethign out. just wondered if there was a surefire trick that had already been used by other ramp owners.

be sure to post pics of your build when you start. i got my hardened gears all mounted up now. they turned out great.

what are you going to do for gear mesh on your setup? just put elongated holes in the chassis so you can slide the mount side to side? or make a set of plates? or just use one gear so you dont need to adjust mesh?

[brushlessboy16]

What you can try to do is get like 800 grit sand paper. tape it down to a solid table and run the diff case across it to deck the top and ensure a good seal.. Im not sure how the rampage diffs are but you might want to try making your own gaskets. Auto parts stores sell gasket material but the compressed paperboard of your average cereal box is enough to hold in silicone oil.


just a thought :)

[aqwut]

Looks good, love the shine...

[Ryu James]

kaz,
have you tried mounting the motor up with that mount yet? i was looking at it a bit closer and am now wondering how you are going to make it work. because the mount sits the motor so high off the chassis you will have to move the motor in real close to be able to get your gear mesh. but you wont be able to do this it seems cuz the mount is so wide also and it will hit into the driveline or center diff mounts. my mount is only 2.5mm wider than the motor itself and it sits very close to the driveline. i am sure there is a way to make that mount work so i am just wondering if you have run into these issues and what you are planning to do to make it work. i guess you could notch the side of the mount just large enough for the driveline to go through it without touching it. anyway, am i seeing things right or does it just appear larger than it is?

[KaztheMinotaur]

I don't know. Hopefully tonight I will put the center drive line back in.

We shall see...

[KaztheMinotaur]

The 40T spur requires grinding of the top plate...chassis fits fine though.

I had to slot the motor mount for the front drive shaft...now it isn't pretty anymore...