Quark fried, blown capacitor...

[Serum]

I think i might have some matching shoes for the truck now.. :p

zpb, I really believe that they is a string of Quarks that just weren't built properly. It's just odd that so many have had good luck with theirs, but ours have crapped out the way that they did.

[zeropointbug]

Yeah, I agree, I had a couple of solder joints that were near cold solders.

I really don't want any controller other than the Quark, but if this keeps up... I might just snatch up a MM.

Well, I do have my Compro 16016 coming back soon. Like I said, it does appear to be built better than the Quark. I'm hoping that my new Compro doesn't have any issues.

From the experience that I had with the Compro, it is a nice controller and runs COOL.

[bdebde]

Think my problem
here
could be cap realated

[suicideneil]

How many people on here use the compro escs? The look rather good, and arent too unreasonable price wize. As for brake fading issues- that sucks, but I guess it is asking alot for the motor to be a powerful brake too- something to be said for mech brakes afterall, even if they do take up space/weight....

MetalMan, I was talking about increasing the motor timing on the esc to see if the Neu would cog any less. My cogging is pretty bad at times. Sometimes it doesn't cog at all, but when it does, it really does.

I've had the sink pop off of a couple of my MMs. I suppose it'll do that with the right shock. I just used arctic alumina to put it back on.

Do you feel that the hardwiring helped anything?

[zeropointbug]

I wonder if shortening the motor wires to short as comfortably possible would help cogging?

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by AAngel

MetalMan, I was talking about increasing the motor timing on the esc to see if the Neu would cog any less. My cogging is pretty bad at times. Sometimes it doesn't cog at all, but when it does, it really does.

I've had the sink pop off of a couple of my MMs. I suppose it'll do that with the right shock. I just used arctic alumina to put it back on.

Do you feel that the hardwiring helped anything?

My cogging is also quite bad when it cogs, but the reduction in gearing definitely helped. The next time the Hyper 8 runs I'll play around with the timing to see if it has any noticeable effect on cogging (for my motor at least).

Arctic Alumina it is!

I've been hardwiring brushless motors for a while now. It is my belief that hardwiring does help rather substantially, but I no longer have any point of comparison to see the actual difference.

zpb, yes I am getting cogging. Sometimes it's so bad it's embarrassing. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. I wouldn't consider the setup race worthy, although you can definitely bash with it. Once it's rolling it's fine. If you come to a complete stop, getting going again is iffy. If you are at a complete stop and there is any resistance in your path, forget about getting going again.

My motor wires are about 3 inches long as it is. I'm just kind of disgusted with the whole thing right now. I'm thinking that it might be time for a break from all of this. I might just pull the dirt bike out and dust off the cobb webs and see if it still starts.

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by AAngel

My motor wires are about 3 inches long as it is. I'm just kind of disgusted with the whole thing right now. I'm thinking that it might be time for a break from all of this. I might just pull the dirt bike out and dust off the cobb webs and see if it still starts.

Don't quite on us now! :eek:

We MUST sort this ordeal out! We must find a good setup that is reliable, and high performing for these trucks! My hunch is that if the Quark gets good cooling, which I think is only possible if both bottom AND top FET's get direct thermal management. Along with a few extra caps, will make one potent controller. :027:

Well, with my last Quark experience, I did find that of the two "joints" holding the top pcb to the bottom, one of them is socketed and one is soldered. I believe that with the use of a sucker and good soldering station, you could separate the two pcbs to get to the top set of FETs and do something about the sinking.

What rubs me wrong about doing that is that you shouldn't have to do it with a controller that costs almost $300. At this point, I believe that if Castle comes out with that Neu fix, the MM will be all of the controller that most of us will need. I like the power of 4S, escpecially on a track. 3S isn't enough and 5S is too much. I have a feeling that this is why Castle hasn't released the fix. If they fix the MM, the demand for the MMM may go down. To tell the truth, I have so many MMs that if I got the fix, I wouldn't need a MMM for a long time.

[zeropointbug]

True, a couple hundred dollar piece of hardware that small and few parts should be much better designed for thermals. They should have put a third cap on it (like the MM, 990uF total), and spec'd it at 5s and call it a day. That would probably solve a lot of problems.

I think I am going to make a simple heatspreader clamp for my next Quark and mount it to a heatsink I have sitting around and see what happens. Just to get an idea how good the cooling is, for my 'Custom Quark case'.

BTW, is S&T open on Saturday?

MetalMan, if you are hardwired and are still having bad cogging problems, then it probably won't help enough. I'm using the 5.5mm connectors and they are rather substantial with a lot of surface area for contact. I don't think that the connectors are the problem.