**My FLM CCNeu Maxx Nearly Completed**

[Kcaz25]

No, and I will get the new cd unit in a few days. And more pics will come tomorrow I have to get a counter sink kit! I haven't decided about the shocks either... LOL I now have 8 Power Strokes and 8 Super shocks. And all the turnbuckles on the truck(6 in all) will be TRX Red Tubes. WB is 15 inches. I have to study for a bible test now! See ya!

[Chadworkz]

That DD wing-mount, Mugen MB-X5T wing-stay & XRAY 808 wing (with uber-awesome UE/Supermaxx stickers) sure does look familiar! ;)

Anyway, I really like that layout, it looks great...as well as like it will work extremely well! What material is that chassis made out of?

[Kcaz25]

Thanks guys! Chad you should not only recognize your wing parts but the chassis as well as it is a trimmed HCR Mutant (so its titanium of course) without a top plate sold to me by user 3.3maxx if you look hard you can see the top plate in the back ground. I ditched the top plate for several reasons, the three main reasons are as follows, some of the posts were striped, I really wanted to lay the servo down like a losi truggy and, it really gets in the way when trying to do an electric conversion.

I'm wanting to give it some kick-up as the mutant uses all rear bulks and has no kick-up. I'm thinking I'll put some shims under the bulks to give some suspension kick-up, but that'll still leave the chassis without any kick-up. What do you guys think about bending the chassis alittle and using a front bulk anyway?

Lito after talking with you in another thread you seem to think that the plastic rod ends are a bad idea and that I should use metal. Can you link me to the correct size, I'm going to be using TRX Red Tube turnbuckles and was planning on using Dubro Monster ball links which are much bigger than what you see in the picture above.

Thanks,
Zack

[George16]

The rod ends are too small, might not give you the stiffness (while allowing some degree of flexibility) and might be prone to breakage. If you want to use rod ends like that, get the thicker ends from Ofna(you can use the shock ends from any 1/8 shocks). They are thicker and more durable. If you have UE's motherlode of shock parts, those rod ends will work.

I pondered about converting my JT truggy to electric before selling it but I got too lazy. You can also make a plate to connect bulkheads to the cd mount instead of using the links.

Here's my old JT truggy. I sold it last year.

[Kcaz25]

Originally Posted by George16

The rod ends are too small, might not give you the stiffness (while allowing some degree of flexibility) and might be prone to breakage. If you want to use rod ends like that, get the thicker ends from Ofna(you can use the shock ends from any 1/8 shocks). They are thicker and more durable. If you have UE's motherlode of shock parts, those rod ends will work.

I pondered about converting my JT truggy to electric before selling it but I got too lazy. You can also make a plate to connect bulkheads to the cd mount instead of using the links.

Here's my old JT truggy. I sold it last year.

Yessir I've seen your JT truggy before! I love it, Lito! It was one thing that made me want this Mutant. I've heard that the bottom of the chassis where the bulks attach is made for VBS thus has 4mm screw holes, counter sinks all that for 4mm. Is that right? Did you tap your bulks out to 4mm? Don't the bulks attach in different places to the skid/chassis.

If you still had it and converted it you would definently want to minimize the top plate probably to the point to just over the steering. I got this idea from the OFNA Hybrid, the use of turnbuckles. Can you direct me to some metal ones? I've seen the ones at RC4WD. BUT I should have been more clear I was planning on using TRX Red Tube turnbuckles and Dubro Monster ball links to tie bulkhead to CD to bulkhead/steering. I've used the Dubro's for 8 months now on my maxx and never broke one after breaking 10s of the 3.3 spec ones. They are bigger than OFNA. Also I'd like to note that I going to erase the red anodize on the CD plate and secure the top of the screws with another plate made out ot carbon fiber, does that make sense? Kinda like a sandwich: CD plate -- 4 turnbuckle links -- CD plate(carbon fiber). Going to do essentially the same thing where the other ends mounts to the bulks.

As far as the plate goes it would be kinda strange because the CD is at a different level than the bulk tabs.

What do you guys think about kick-up? See above post.

Thanx,
Zack

[Chadworkz]

I actually have a Mutant-Maxx chassis that has been bent to have kick-up and use front bulkheads in the front, and it works great! You can't use the top-plate anymore after you bend in the kick-up, but you aren't using it anyway, so no problem there.

I like how you chopped off the rear section in order to mount the UE Mono-Block, that's cool!

Also, the JT chassis uses standard bulkheads, not VBS...only the UE VBS version uses VBS.

[Kcaz25]

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

I actually have a Mutant-Maxx chassis that has been bent to have kick-up and use front bulkheads in the front, and it works great! You can't use the top-plate anymore after you bend in the kick-up, but you aren't using it anyway, so no problem there.

I like how you chopped off the rear section in order to mount the UE Mono-Block, that's cool!

Also, the JT chassis uses standard bulkheads, not VBS...only the UE VBS version uses VBS.

I saw the better pictures you have and came to think maybe the chassis does have kick-up prior to buying this one. But it doesn't. Did you bend it? If so can you give me tips about it. I don't want to mess it up. I know even titanium doesn't like being bent but the bulkhead will probably give a backbone in that spot.

Anyway, I actually haven't cut the chassis. HEHE

Thanks for the VBS confirmation.

[Chadworkz]

I didn't bend my Mutant, but as long as you do it in the right place, it will be fine. I would use a front skid-plate to figure out where it needs to be bent, then make sure each side of the bend is supported, don't just try to bend it or it will just fold instead of bend right. Make sure a flat edge is across where you want it to bend so that the front section where the bulkheads mount remain flat, and the chassis behind the bend remains flat. In fact, bolt some bulks to the chassis before you bend.

[Kcaz25]

A vise seems like it would be a good tool. Although I don't know if the vise will work after I have bolted it to bulks.

[Kcaz25]

How do I countersink this titanium?? I've bought some hardened steel bits that work great on aluminium but they take ages to sink this titanium, like 15 mins for one hole.

I have the plastic center braces from my new RC8T-e I upgraded those right away but you can have them, just cover shipping. They mount from the front bulk area to the chassis then u can at least decide if you want to go that route

I would say try titanium bits buts that wouldnt work lol.. just keep lube on it and try to keep the bit cool as possible it takes some time. Even with di grinder it took a bit to trim the rear for the Tru track kit

[Chadworkz]

You need a high-quality carbide counter-sink bit...they are about $35, but they will counter-sink anything and last almost forever! They will even work on carbon-fiber without getting dull (CF dulls every cutting material except carbide, tungsten, and diamond-tipped).

[simplechamp]

Yup, carbide, and it has to be a true carbide bit. I've seen a lot of cheaper tools throw around the word carbide in the name when it was just carbide coating or an alloy with minimal carbide content.

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by simplechamp

yup, carbide, and it has to be a true carbide bit. I've seen a lot of cheaper tools throw around the word carbide in the name when it was just carbide coating or an alloy with minimal carbide content.

truth!