RC-Monster Forums  

Go Back   RC-Monster Forums > Support Forums > Revo

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 57 votes, 4.93 average. Display Modes
Old
  (#1)
Chadworkz
UE Supermaxx Addict!
 
Chadworkz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,006
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gadsden, Alabama
01.17.2010, 03:35 AM

The extra length is nothing more than the spring being a different weight, with a different thickness coil and a different number of coils...none of the springs are meant for either the front or the rear, any of them can be used in the front OR the rear, it all just depends on how you like your suspension setup.

In 99% of all cases, you run heavier springs in the rear and lighter springs in the front, since the rear of the truck is heavier and needs more support.

The front and rear shocks are exactly the same; the bodies, shafts, etc. are all the same length, and all 4 shocks are identical. The only differences are the variable items, like; the pistons, oil, & springs.

What little difference there is in the length of the springs you have pictured is nothing, and which spring you use on which end should be chosen by weight, not length.


-Chad
PM ME IF YOU HAVE THE BELOW:
VBS, CVDs, GM Single-Speed, OTB, Ultramaxxed, Super6, Strobe, Sprong, CNR Brake, UE Hex, DUH Towers, Predator, Blackbird, GA Blue Screws, HCR F/R Skids & Mutant
  Send a message via AIM to Chadworkz  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#2)
brian015
RC-Monster Aluminum
 
brian015's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 768
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NJ
01.18.2010, 08:20 PM

I've heard the Summit springs are longer. And according to the parts list, the double yellow and double orange springs are "long"

http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/5610_parts.pdf
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#3)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
01.18.2010, 08:42 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by brian015 View Post
I've heard the Summit springs are longer. And according to the parts list, the double yellow and double orange springs are "long"

http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/5610_parts.pdf
Interesting to know, I will order 2 pair and try them in one of my 2 basher Erevo's. I'm currently running Blue F&R with 60wt oil. These might be even better with less poundage but with a longer lenth ????

Thanks!


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#4)
Chadworkz
UE Supermaxx Addict!
 
Chadworkz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,006
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gadsden, Alabama
01.18.2010, 08:53 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
Interesting to know, I will order 2 pair and try them in one of my 2 basher Erevo's. I'm currently running Blue F&R with 60wt oil. These might be even better with less poundage but with a longer lenth ????

Thanks!
Length is not what you need to be worrying about. If you put a spring that is too long onto a shock, the spring will always be slightly compressed, just as if you had adjusted the pre-load on a shorter spring of the same weight.

There is no reason you should be wanting a longer spring, and in fact, a spring that is too long will coil-bind before the full-travel of the shock is reached (which is bad).

You should also not be running the same weight springs front & rear unless your truck has a perfect 50/50 weight distribution. Like I said, you should be running heavier springs in the rear and lighter springs in the front. You can possibly get away with running the same oil weight front and rear, and sometimes even the same pistons front and rear, but in reality, the front and rear shocks should be tuned differently since the front and rear of the truck are different.

The heavier your spring, the heavier your oil needs to be (or the smaller the piston needs to be).

The lighter your spring, the lighter your oil needs to be (or the larger the piston needs to be).

What exactly are you wanting to do, and I will let you know how you need to setup your suspension/shocks. How heavy is your truck? Do you run anti-swaybars? What terrain do you run on mostly? What type of driving do you do, and do you drive aggressively? Do you jump your truck, or just stay on flat ground?


-Chad
PM ME IF YOU HAVE THE BELOW:
VBS, CVDs, GM Single-Speed, OTB, Ultramaxxed, Super6, Strobe, Sprong, CNR Brake, UE Hex, DUH Towers, Predator, Blackbird, GA Blue Screws, HCR F/R Skids & Mutant
  Send a message via AIM to Chadworkz  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#5)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
01.18.2010, 09:10 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadworkz View Post
Length is not what you need to be worrying about.

There is no reason you should be wanting a longer spring.

You should also not be running the same weight springs front & rear unless your truck has a perfect 50/50 weight.

I will let you know how you need to setup your suspension
I appreciate your concern,but I didn't ask for it ?

What you think I "should do" isn't what I want to do.

I drive my Revo like a complete physco on 5s, and I jump the shit out of it.
I have the collars cranked 1/4 of way down w/blue springs with the variable valves. I'm really happy how my erevo handles and I'm always looking to "EXPERIMENT", so the longer springs might do well for me ?
Worst case senerio I wasted 10bucks

It's a excuse to tinker, so no worrys dude. I'm a big kid havin' fun w/my toy trucks ?


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.

Last edited by Bondonutz; 01.18.2010 at 09:11 PM.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#6)
Chadworkz
UE Supermaxx Addict!
 
Chadworkz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,006
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gadsden, Alabama
01.18.2010, 10:04 PM

That's cool, I was just trying to help.

You might want to try a stiffer spring, like Purple, since you have the pre-load cranked way down. Like I said, a longer spring of the same weight does absolutely nothing different than the shorter spring of the same weight except stop you from cranking the pre-load so far down.

Pre-load is ONLY for adjusting ride-height, it does not make the springs/suspension stiffer, you need a stiffer spring for that.


-Chad
PM ME IF YOU HAVE THE BELOW:
VBS, CVDs, GM Single-Speed, OTB, Ultramaxxed, Super6, Strobe, Sprong, CNR Brake, UE Hex, DUH Towers, Predator, Blackbird, GA Blue Screws, HCR F/R Skids & Mutant
  Send a message via AIM to Chadworkz  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#7)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
01.18.2010, 10:48 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadworkz View Post
That's cool, I was just trying to help.

You might want to try a stiffer spring, like Purple, since you have the pre-load cranked way down. Like I said, a longer spring of the same weight does absolutely nothing different than the shorter spring of the same weight except stop you from cranking the pre-load so far down.

Pre-load is ONLY for adjusting ride-height, it does not make the springs/suspension stiffer, you need a stiffer spring for that.
The preload is not cranked "way down", 1/4 of the threads down at best as mentioned.

Don't want a stiffer spring, thats why I was happy to hear of the double orange at the lb it was.

Fully aware what the pre load is for.

Thanx Sweet cheeks


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#8)
bryan
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
 
bryan's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 489
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: maryland
01.19.2010, 09:58 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
The preload is not cranked "way down", 1/4 of the threads down at best as mentioned.

Don't want a stiffer spring, thats why I was happy to hear of the double orange at the lb it was.

Fully aware what the pre load is for.

Thanx Sweet cheeks
Dont bash anotha brotha set-up
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#9)
phatmonk
RC carbon junkie
 
phatmonk's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 634
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Iowa
01.19.2010, 07:36 PM

Hey guys will the Summit driveshafts fit my E Revo.They share the same suspention arms.


SC8-E RCM MMM CC 1717
Slash 4x4 MMP CC SC 2400
SC RC8BE MMP Neu Tekno 1512/2D
Mugen MBX6 Eco MMP Neu Tekno 1515/1.5D
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#10)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
01.19.2010, 07:43 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by phatmonk View Post
Hey guys will the Summit driveshafts fit my E Revo.They share the same suspention arms.
Yes Sir they will.
Will they be better ?
Thats a question for Mr Crash, he's used them for a while and I beleive he has mixed emotions weither they are better or not.


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#11)
mistercrash
Guelph, Canada, eh!
 
mistercrash's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,083
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
01.20.2010, 12:23 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by phatmonk View Post
Hey guys will the Summit driveshafts fit my E Revo.They share the same suspention arms.
The Summit shafts are sold complete on ebay only. They are generally sold in pairs of a short one and a long one. You need the long one only. The prices went up as I can see. They are less prone to twisting or snapping but the components wear out quickly and get very sloppy in a short while. I have said it before and will say it again, no matter what shafts you use, they will last much longer if you have a good slipper that is set up right and can take some abuse. Get the aluminum slipper pads from Traxxas when they come out. Aluminum pads will take serious slipping abuse and will not burn out like the stock ones so the slipper can be set much looser which is beneficial to all the drive train's components.


No brain, no headaches.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#12)
shaunjohnson
i pwn nitro
 
shaunjohnson's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 769
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: with ur GF
01.20.2010, 07:21 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercrash View Post
but the components wear out quickly and get very sloppy in a short while.
i beg to differ!!
my summit shafts were installed on the week before you did yours if i remember correctly.
spektrum shows that i have had 50 hours of race time on them and they are showing minimal ware for me.
i'll have to get the good camera and get you a photo of the ware, there is about 0.5mm of slop on the CVD pins. and IMO a bit of slop dont matter much when you race offroad!


E-revo 3.3 conversion, 249kv outrunner, 6s, MMM
the porthole from the noob world an here has been opened!! that's how i got in.
  Send a message via MSN to shaunjohnson  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#13)
mistercrash
Guelph, Canada, eh!
 
mistercrash's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,083
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
01.20.2010, 10:10 AM

You're making me realize something important by saying this. I should mention that the second set of Summit shafts I installed seem to be holding on much longer than the first set. They are just starting to get a little slop in them but I also have been running my slipper much looser with more slip than when I was running the first set. I can't believe I over looked this information. But does this mean that the Summit shafts are truly stronger? Maybe, maybe not. I have 8 new stock shafts that came in from ebay last week. When the Summit shafts I am running now wear out too much or break, I will go back to the stock shafts with the same slipper setting and see if the stock shafts give the same performance as the Summits did.
I don't want anyone to believe that I am bashing on the Summit shafts, I like them a lot and I always preferred CV style shafts over U joint shafts. No one should be bashing on any component of the ERBE anyway, the problem is the MMM is too powerful
Nah! It's not of course but this power must make it hard for manufacturers to come up with parts that will be strong enough to handle the MMM. Let's think of the shafts for a moment, there's a limit to what can be done to make them bullet proof. I mean I can't imagine running some CV style shaft that is one inch in diameter with parts so strong and heavy that a full set of shafts would weight two pounds.
I'm thinking that the slipper is one of the most important device of the ERBE and those aluminum slipper pads is one of the best upgrades I put on my truck.


No brain, no headaches.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#14)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
01.20.2010, 12:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercrash View Post
those aluminum slipper pads is one of the best upgrades I put on my truck.
Mr.C,
I can't seem to find a part number for these, can you assist please ?

Thanks


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#15)
Chadworkz
UE Supermaxx Addict!
 
Chadworkz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,006
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gadsden, Alabama
01.19.2010, 10:55 PM

Never bashed anything, was trying to help.


-Chad
PM ME IF YOU HAVE THE BELOW:
VBS, CVDs, GM Single-Speed, OTB, Ultramaxxed, Super6, Strobe, Sprong, CNR Brake, UE Hex, DUH Towers, Predator, Blackbird, GA Blue Screws, HCR F/R Skids & Mutant
  Send a message via AIM to Chadworkz  
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump







Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com