Need response from a Castle tech for MMM question

[BrianG]

Made up a little diagram showing the UBEC hookup. It's a little different than most setups since the output of the UBEC must be fed back into the ESC, but that's about it. Oh, and I used the ESC input power solder points for the UBEC input.



Other mods done just for the record:

- Cut the case so the heatsink has better passive airflow

- To protect the circuits, I installed 1/8" thick foam pad strip along the motor and power wire solder points inside the case.

[Arct1k]

Sorry to be anal but any chance of rotating the pic 180 so that it lines up with the orginal series...

Ahh that feels better

[BrianG]

The lighting would be totally off, not to mention the little bin of fish-eye distortion there is would be off as well.

[Pdelcast]

Just one thing from me, and then I'll shut up --

Make sure you don't leave any solder shorts -- good idea to use some wick and clean up the excess solder after removing the parts.

[BrianG]

lol, no need to shut up. Without your assistance, I would have just removed the coil and possible done some damage.

After removing the parts, I cleaned the flux film off and made sure no traces were touching. Well there are a couple on the FETs that touch anyway, but I mean the others.

[Arct1k]

[BrianG]

Keeps people on their toes.

I might do it sometime this evening if I get bored. Doesn't take long, just gotta flip the image, save, upload to server - that's a whole 3 minutes out of my life!

[Arct1k]

Have one minute back... ;) Ahhh that feels better - ;)

[joeling]

Also can use a multimeter to check adjacent pads to ensure there is no short. Of course got to realise that a couple of pads for the 2 smaller components are common.

If the eyes are failing, use a magnifying glass. Works wonders.

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Just one thing from me, and then I'll shut up --

Make sure you don't leave any solder shorts -- good idea to use some wick and clean up the excess solder after removing the parts.

Regards,
Joe Ling

[joeling]

Ok I thought I got lucky after reviving my V1. Now my brand new V2 seems to be DOA. BEC output voltage less than 1V upon powering up. This is a long weekend in Malaysia & I really want to run both my buggy (V1) & new truggy (V2). Looks like I'm only going to achieve 1 out of 2. However, I am now bordering on adventurous & I'm thinking of pulling a surgery on the V2. V2 differs from V1 in that the DC/DC convertor is now a 10pin device. At least to my feeble understanding of electronics that's what it is. So, this is what I intend to do :



I want to remove the parts marked with X's to achieve the same result as that of the V1's to remove the internal BEC & power the esc through and ecternal power source.

Now the 6million dollar question - will this work ? Are those the right parts to remove?

I understand the warranty will be void if I did it. How much do I have to pay if I found out the hard way that this idea does not work ?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Joe Ling

OMG, it's ridiculous It's a new controller who's suppose to be good, and now, we've to modify them to make it work properly.

This is a real joke.......

I've take the plunge and order a MMM V2, i don't have recieve it yet, but now i've a BIG regret to have spend $200.00 on it.

So guys, if somebody here want a brand new V2, as soon as i'll recieve mine next week, i'am ready to ship it for the same price i've paid for mine, $216.00US + $5.00 for shipping, so for $221.00 i'll let it goes, and i'll not open the box, so you'll recieve it factory seal

And with this $221.00, i'll order a revo 3.3 frame and trany and converted my e-revo to nitro.

END...........

[George16]

Originally Posted by david lamontagn

OMG, it's ridiculous It's a new controller who's suppose to be good, and now, we've to modify them to make it work properly.

This is a real joke.......

I've take the plunge and order a MMM V2, i don't have recieve it yet, but now i've a BIG regret to have spend $200.00 on it.

So guys, if somebody here want a brand new V2, as soon as i'll recieve mine next week, i'am ready to ship it for the same price i've paid for mine, $216.00US + $5.00 for shipping, so for $221.00 i'll let it goes, and i'll not open the box, so you'll recieve it factory seal

And with this $221.00, i'll order a revo 3.3 frame and trany and converted my e-revo to nitro.

END...........

PM Arct1k. He offered to buy the MMM I'm waiting for because I was complaining about how long it was taking to get to me.

He said this on one of his posts:

If you bought it from Mike and paid 145 then send it to me and I will refund you myself... This way you won't have to use a Castle product any more... Please PM if you want to take me up on my offer - I'll do this for up to 3 people/controllers who are that upset.

[Arct1k]

Yep no problem George16 if you bought from mike and paid 145...

However David, Brian's mods are on a v1 that failed - You ran with the MGM for a while before you had problems - I see no reason not to give it a try...

[BrianG]

Actually, my V1 hadn't failed yet. It was more of a precautionary measure...

Nice job keep us up to date. So Joe Ling and BrianG neither of you have tried this modification on a v2 yet right? I am going to wait it out because I liked Castles products in the past and I dont *Need* it right now so I will wait for them to iron this out, I know they will. Patience is key guys.