My e-revo brushless edition build

[mistercrash]

I never tried any Integy parts, I also never tried ST Racing parts. All I had to go from was the opinions I could find in forums. And like I said, they were mixed and did not help me very much. As for using aluminum skids not being the smartest option, I agree for the rear, the Revo wears out the rear skid plate very quickly, but I never had problems with my front skids wearing out prematurely. I looked at the ST Racing skid and thought that it might help since it was made in one piece instead of two. I couldn't make up my mind on the quality of the part from the opinions from other users so I had to try it for myself. Sorry I took your first post a little too personnal.

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I never tried any Integy parts, I also never tried ST Racing parts. All I had to go from was the opinions I could find in forums. And like I said, they were mixed and did not help me very much. As for using aluminum skids not being the smartest option, I agree for the rear, the Revo wears out the rear skid plate very quickly, but I never had problems with my front skids wearing out prematurely. I looked at the ST Racing skid and thought that it might help since it was made in one piece instead of two. I couldn't make up my mind on the quality of the part from the opinions from other users so I had to try it for myself. Sorry I took your first post a little too personnal.

Its all good.

[Chadworkz]

Like I said, the Hardcore Racing full-length, one-piece titanium skid-plate is the best thing you can do for a Revo, 2nd only to the Vantage CF chassis!

Also like I said, I have a brand-new, one-piece, 2mm titanium skid-plate that you could use, but as I had to do with mine, you will need to cut it to make it fit. Plus, since it is for a nitro-style chassis, and you have an electric-style chassis, all you could really use would be the front section and the rear section, which is more than enough. If you don't want to buy a whole, complete, new skid, I have a used (but nice) front section that has already been cut that will be perfect for you!

[shaunjohnson]

race report on smart diff...
the diff stock out of box with no tuning was similar in performance to 100k diff oil in a XXL diff.
power would start off unloaded, front wheels touched down followed by a huge push in the rear end and then gradually as the torque on the diff reduced it would unload again.

the brakes were insane! locked all 4's rather than having the CD unload the 2 gradually.

and since i changed from a 2.5 chassis to a 3.3 chassis i may aswell tell you what i thought...
IT SUCKED WITH A CAPITOL S!!!!!!
i have no idea how you people drive with the long 3.3 and E-revo chassis's!!
i was forced to run the 6s lipo all day and i STILL needed more power!!
the 5s decided today was a good day to need new deans plugs but when it was going it was GUTLESS!!
you need max throttle on the 3.3 chassis to pull out of a dive and sometimes it STILL wont pull out of it!
the old 2.5 could pull out of ANYTHING!!
i hope i can find a way to get my beloved 2.5 chassis re-enforced and repaired again...i miss quadruple backflips

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I never tried any Integy parts, I also never tried ST Racing parts. All I had to go from was the opinions I could find in forums. And like I said, they were mixed and did not help me very much. As for using aluminum skids not being the smartest option, I agree for the rear, the Revo wears out the rear skid plate very quickly, but I never had problems with my front skids wearing out prematurely. I looked at the ST Racing skid and thought that it might help since it was made in one piece instead of two. I couldn't make up my mind on the quality of the part from the opinions from other users so I had to try it for myself. Sorry I took your first post a little too personnal.

i have some titanium ones that i havent got round it fitting

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by shaunjohnson

race report on smart diff...
the diff stock out of box with no tuning was similar in performance to 100k diff oil in a XXL diff.
power would start off unloaded, front wheels touched down followed by a huge push in the rear end and then gradually as the torque on the diff reduced it would unload again.

the brakes were insane! locked all 4's rather than having the CD unload the 2 gradually.

and since i changed from a 2.5 chassis to a 3.3 chassis i may aswell tell you what i thought...
IT SUCKED WITH A CAPITOL S!!!!!!
i have no idea how you people drive with the long 3.3 and E-revo chassis's!!
i was forced to run the 6s lipo all day and i STILL needed more power!!
the 5s decided today was a good day to need new deans plugs but when it was going it was GUTLESS!!
you need max throttle on the 3.3 chassis to pull out of a dive and sometimes it STILL wont pull out of it!
the old 2.5 could pull out of ANYTHING!!
i hope i can find a way to get my beloved 2.5 chassis re-enforced and repaired again...i miss quadruple backflips



i have some titanium ones that i havent got round it fitting

I think part of your problem could very well be the diff. That can change the flight characteristics and might be why it won't pull the nose up so easily. Try the .15mm springs and the 120 degree ramp plates (not sure how they come). That should give the most aggressive setup possible. If you decide to sell it though, let me know. :)

On the SD, a setup I kept seeing was to cut 2 coils off the .15 springs and run 2 instead of 4. Granted that was in 8ights and 8ight-Ts, but it might be worth a shot, I can't imagine springs cost that much.

Crash, sounds like you're having a rough winter season. Hope you get it worked out soon, I know it's frustrating to blow 30-40 bucks only to have the part combust on the first few runs.

[Urgeoner]

I use this with good results:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminium-Revo-3...item3efc8212f6

[Chadworkz]

I'm sure that's good and all, but it's also heavy, will bend, and will gouge...a single titanium front skidplate is all that is needed. I am not trying to sell anything, just speaking the truth. Aluminum is the worst skidplate material ever.

[mistercrash]

Chrome wheels are for shelf queens. When you start using them, they quickly look awful. The chrome is flaking off. But the paint I put on the wheels is holding.

[shaunjohnson]

thanks for the help, i was thinking of changing to the softest springs that came with it and then chopping one coil off.
we'll see how it goes :P
ive gotta get my 2.5 chassis rocking again though, was soooo good for handling!!

[Chadworkz]

Yep, chrome-plating on wheels sucks, especially in cold weather! Just strip them with oven cleaner and dye them!

[mistercrash]

I knew all about chrome wheels and never liked them even though they look so good when new. When I built my son's GERBE, I wanted those wheels because to a 5 year old, big shiny wheels are awesome. And I wanted our trucks to match so I went with the same wheels for me. They should be the last chrome wheels I'll get for a while.

[mistercrash]

I thought I was done with the big projects for this ERBE but apparently not. I received two 4S 5800 mah Turnigys a couple days ago but since I'm seriously thinking of going back to the stock chassis, I won't be able to use them. I saw a few people cut their chassis and make bigger battery compartments so I'm giving it a try. I wanted the compartments to extend down instead of up, to lower the CG. So I ordered this,
http://www.smallparts.com/dp/B000RFU...f_rd_s=right-3
And I will cut these shapes from that PVC angle.



This part will be folded at each end to form the battery box. I should be able to make the bends by heating the PVC a bit.



The box will be secured to the chassis with 5 M4 flat head screws in counter sunk holes. (in the pic, it is just held there with servo tape) Plastic welding would be cool here but I don't know if PVC can be welded to Nylon. And I never got that plastic welder anyway.



The battery door slides in the slots and a body clip holds the top part to the door on the body post I put there in a previous mod I did for the stock battery doors.



Here's the 5800 mah 4S battery in there, it fits with a few millimeters to spare. I shook the chassis in every which way very hard and even though the mock up is only made of cardboard, the heavy battery stayed in there.

[Chadworkz]

That should work very well!

[suicideneil]

Thats ingenious