toughest 1/18

[bl-is-future]

Originally Posted by azjc

IMO the MIP Superdiffs are mandatory with a BL /Lipo setup in a RC18

I since then ordered the super diffs and the steel diff gears. also have the MIP universals. Will post with an update to let you know how they do. I imagine good because it was fine with the plastics.

Originally Posted by bl-is-future

I since then ordered the super diffs and the steel diff gears. also have the MIP universals. Will post with an update to let you know how they do. I imagine good because it was fine with the plastics.

I also ran the MIP CVDs which I think you are calling universals, I had issues with the plastic dog bones they would flex too much and pop out. Even with the CVDs I had a few times when they did pop out (I was pretty rough on the RC18). I also experimented with differnt wheel and tire combo's I liked the wheels for the Losi 1/18 scale the best, when I went to the 1/10 scale the performance went down even when I went down to as low as a 10 tooth pinion and I fried a couple of motors( I really likeed the Hyperion over the Mamba)

http://www.b-p-p.com/proddetail.php?prod=db_YC22

[bl-is-future]

Originally Posted by azjc

I also ran the MIP CVDs which I think you are calling universals, I had issues with the plastic dog bones they would flex too much and pop out. Even with the CVDs I had a few times when they did pop out (I was pretty rough on the RC18). I also experimented with differnt wheel and tire combo's I liked the wheels for the Losi 1/18 scale the best, when I went to the 1/10 scale the performance went down even when I went down to as low as a 10 tooth pinion and I fried a couple of motors( I really likeed the Hyperion over the Mamba)

http://www.b-p-p.com/proddetail.php?prod=db_YC22

Yeah CVD's are correct. I call them either or. I have the 1/10 wheels and you need to run 13/60 and it runs great. That is per BYT full speed ahead project http://beatyourtruck.com/project-RC18T.html Also i always get the team kits so the plastic stuff is never an issue. But i could see how they could be. Exactly as you said, they flex and pop out. I might have to try that hyperion setup you linked though. My mamba is actually fired at the moment. I fried the mamba somehow then was going to check the motor for anything abnormal and snapped the shaft trying to get the pinion off. So i need to send it in to castle and fix it.

[bl-is-future]

Now how does a spammer get in here? Pathetic people in this world.

[t-maxxracer32]

lol we need a mod in here

we've been infiltrated lol did not expect to see that in 1/18th scale

Originally Posted by e-rev project

we've been infiltrated lol did not expect to see that in 1/18th scale

I know!

I was going to out my .02 in and see that crap


anyways, I also think the RC18 series are the shiz! All they need is the mip diffs, cvd's or alu dog bones, and a new servo and there ready for BL

[MTBikerTim]

Anyone tried the Xray M18T. I am seriously considering getting one.

[Sammus]

if you read through the thread it was the other highly recommended next to the rc18t

I just dont like ball diffs.. I may as well get them for the mini lst.. I want metal gear diffs.. I wrote to mike about possible machining some, even alloy gears would be better than plastic. no reply though.

[t-maxxracer32]

i think that would be alot of work for just 1 run of the diffs.

the only problem i had with my 18t is the diffs kept coming loose. i never stripped any.

one thing i didnt try was the mip super diffs.

i may pick up a 18t or an m18t.

when i did have the 18t i never really broke any parts. it was a very solid truck.

it does need a couple things as everyone has said.

but what 1/18 scale doesnt?

[Sammus]

I still cant understand why no-one ever made metal diff gears for it. Why on earth would so many companies make all alloy chassis parts and steel or titanium spur gears, but not bother touching the one and only weak point in the truck?!?

I bet if they were released a year ago they wouldve sold better than any hopup for any car ever!

But now everyone I've spoken to about the mlst has sold it because of the weak diffs.

[MTBikerTim]

Originally Posted by Sammus

if you read through the thread it was the other highly recommended next to the rc18t

I just dont like ball diffs.. I may as well get them for the mini lst.. I want metal gear diffs.. I wrote to mike about possible machining some, even alloy gears would be better than plastic. no reply though.

Opps. I thought I had read through this thread and I thought they weren't mentioned. I didn't check as I didn't want to spend to long in the thread with the now deleted pictures. I am very seriously considering getting the m18t now. I'll use the electrics from my mini-t.

[Sammus]

Cool.. that came across a little harsher than I meant it, it wasn't one of those "use the f'n search n00b!" kinda posts I promise :P

I also want to buy an m18t... I just got a new buggy though so I'll have to wait till next years tax perhaps haha.

[pipeous]

Well I have had a few of these. I am a big micro fan. The Associated line takes a beating. Having ball ends at all the links is a plus. if you take a super bad tumble and such, usually a ball will pop off.... that means get cvd's cuz finding those stupid little springs in the dirt is a pain,... been there too many times. even the ft has blue aluminum dogbones instead of plastic but still those springs. you can put a dab of shoe goo on and push them in, and that usually saves them, but for $12 a pair it's not worth it

the driven production gear cover at the toyz is a must or you'll eat spurs. $13 well spent. the steering drag link or another nice setup helps. the stock servo saver has a plastic ring, at least get the metal ring for that. tightens the steering up. when building the shocks put a dab of shoe goo around the bottom clip of the shock body so they don't come apart doing big air. buy a couple extra difs and a set of bearings. after a good run just swap everything out and clean those up for next time. it's so cheap to keep a set and you will have a nice clean car always.

the xray is a sweet truck. it's drawbacks are you can only use xray wheels because of the hub setup. and it takes a special battery to fit. yuntong has a nice 1800 mah that is a tight fit. my bud has the xray, been a while since I owned one

I recently picked up an inferno09. I have to admit it handles like a much bigger rc. I was able to hold off a 10th brushless 4wd on the track and it wasn't even fair for me to run with the micros. it is a shrunken 8th scale buggy, with a solid center spool. I am going to make a motor mount and toss an align t rex motor into it and run 3s lipo. I am hoping I can drill and tap the flywheel and use the clutch, otherwise I'll just order some pinions from mike.

the electric inferno is not the same. you have to add bearings all over and such. the nitro has a much stronger platform to start with and the center dif has more of an offset (bud with the xray has an electric mini inferno so we compared a bit)

I have ordered a lot from thetoyz.com and the service is great. just waiting for tires, wheels and some goodies for my inferno right now :D I am an Associated guy through and through (even my crawler is a PTI Goliath and I need to fix a dif with TC3 parts hehe) but the Kyosho is in a league of it's own..... you can also find a killer deal if you find any of the kyosho lav8. it's the military vehicle version of the half 8. toyz had them for $100 rtr last I saw. am still tempted just because they look so cool

[MTBikerTim]

Hehe. I bought the M18MT last night. Was up putting it together until 2am last night. It's a cool car for sure. Now I wan't the M18T Pro lol. Still have to put this one through some torture tests though.