**My FLM CCNeu Maxx Nearly Completed** - Page 42 - RC-Monster Forums

Kcaz25 · 07:11 PM

Hey!! Important question. Can I have the motor wires come out of the esc, so out of the bullet connectors then do a 90 degree angle out away from the esc? How about a 180 degree angle?

-Zack

ps. I received the tray, its very nice! Pics soon...

EDIT: After searching (I know) I see that I can drill a hole in each connector. Still I would like advice. I will post a picture tonight of what I want to do.

suicideneil · 06.23.2012, 07:38 AM

That won't matter, so long as the solder joints are solid and there's no chance or wires shorting against eachother or the chassis etc, route those wires as you please pretty much.

Kcaz25 · 10:53 AM

I sortof hate to fully reveal what I'm working on before I'm finished but I need help. Now, no wiring has been done. I have to shorten(inches!) and route the wires all of them and mount the RX. Also some of the screws are mocked up and are loose. So what do you think about this?

Obviously I am wanting to go under the rear drive shaft. It has enough clearance surprisingly. The wires pretty much have to come out of the ESC at a 90 then go down at like another 90 then go straight to the motor along the bottom of the chassis under the rear drive shaft.

-Zack

ANGRY-ALIEN · 06.23.2012, 11:09 AM

Hey Zack, see the example below... I see no real issues with you making the connectors 90° for your application... just make sure they are insulated well after you are done...

taken from: Losi Brushless buggy tips

Alien

Kcaz25 · 08:50 PM

Thanks Alien!

Okay! I did it, the motor looks great!! wires are nice and short! But my Mamba Monster may never run again! My orange ESC to RX wire broke. Big time. The tab came off the board!

ANGRY-ALIEN · 06.25.2012, 01:55 AM

How did that happen?

Kcaz25 · 06.29.2012, 05:14 PM

Its a semi long story... here is the end of it. Castle customer service is still awesome! I am getting a brand new updated(so with new fets) Mamba Monster at my doorstep sometime next week for $70. They even told me that it would not be a refurbished one. I sent it in on wed of this week. They just called me today on Friday to tell me that it would be in the mail on its way to me on Monday. WOW! My MMM has been through alot. It was completely submerged and had a cracked inductor for years. It has seen a few thermals and it is funny that the signal wire tab popping off is the thing that did it in.

This is how the tab came off. I do have a soldering gun. I do solder sometimes. It normally takes me at least 30 mins to do one deans plug. I am not good. lol. I wanted to shorten my 3 motor wires. With the 90 degree bends I knew it was too much for me at this point. I took it down to the local hobby shop and they did a great job on the bulllets. (I'll post pics), but the guy noticed that I had a rough looking RX cable. It got in my spur once. I was busy looking at something else in the hobby shop and he asked me if it was okay to fix it. I told him sure. BUT I didn't know that he was going to try to put a new cable on the board. That is what he did. And the orange wire tab looked okay. I tipped him $25. I tried in the store to sinc it up to the other components and it wouldn't take. I asked the guy and he took it over to the store's Castle Link. It wouldn't link up. I thought I could sort it out at home and when I got home the orange tab was off the board. I wish he would have never touched the board. But its okay. I may be better off. Hopefully by the 4th I will have a functioning truck.

Also I am selling some items to help keep the truck running. These include GMaxx/FLM half case single speed tranny an RCM idler gear and a spare with pin mod. Diemaker dave knuckle head wing mount. a full Set of nice but used Proline Power Stroke shocks with all but one set of springs. PM me.

-Zack

Chadworkz · 07.03.2012, 05:27 PM

Hey K, your PM box is full...clean it out and I will reply to your PM...

Kcaz25 · 07.03.2012, 06:08 PM

haha. I know! You've got some PMs yourself now. Cleared out.

Hey guys I am selling some extra stuff!! Proline Steering Kit, Proline Powerstrokes, Gmaxx Tranny, FLM, PM me. I think its going to go pretty fast. But I'm not sure. Lets handle all this via PM.

-Zack

Kcaz25 · 07.03.2012, 11:50 PM

So the invoice from Castle says Mamba Monster extreme. I know its coming with the new fets but will it have the capbank, mount, and tabs and case? Or just the updated MMM? I'm so excited! It will be here Thursday. But the cap bank will not fit on my ESC shelf. lol

Kcaz25 · 07.04.2012, 01:06 PM

And will a 1717 fit Mikes mounts? What does it take?

nitrostarter · 07.04.2012, 02:26 PM

1717 uses the same mounting pattern as the 2200. It just have a larger diameter can. So if you have space underneath your motor it should work. If not you could raise the whole center diff with a spacer or similar to give you the additional clearance needed.

Kcaz25 · 07.04.2012, 05:16 PM

Great! And notice I have a spacer because I flipped my diff and everything around

Anyone recieved a mamba monster extreme recently? See two posts up.

Kcaz25 · 04:47 PM

Doing some maintenance the truck now. I've noticed some things... I'll need help. My 2200kv rotor. The rear endcap is disconnected or unglued. Is that okay? Also I may have noticed the shaft slidding on me one day when trying to pull a pinion. Is that possible will it slip rotationally now? I hope not!

Also! My diff cup will not seperate from the diff body. The spur side came apart easily. The pin is out but the shaft and cup are stuck! I need to replace the bearing.

I will also update on the new extreme MMM. It is very nice. I love the adjustable bec and the power handling. I noticed that large componate on the bottom board of the older mmms is gone. I believe it was the inductor mine cracked on my old mmm. Sorry this is from my phone.

So to recap I need help with the rotor and the Diff.

Thanks Zack

suicideneil · 10.24.2012, 10:14 AM

The rear end cap is screwed in place with 3 tiny screws ( M1.5?, small at any rate ), are they missing?

I would take out the rotor and check both bearings are good, and that the little brass spacers / shims aren't missing either. If the magnet has come loose on the shaft then you should see a 'tide mark' where it used to be further back onto the shaft as such.

I would suggest to tap out the shaft if it's stuck, just use a small 'hammer' and a flat head screwdriver or something similar- just be 100% certain there is no pin or anything holding it in ( the bearing may be a bit warped from front to back so it's mashed against the shaft ).