My e-revo brushless edition build

couple questions....I am installing lst diffs in my revo....I know the lst diffs have a different gear ratio than the traxxas diffs but are there different gear ratio sets that can go in the lst diffs or are they all the same regardless of what the diff came out of? I ask because the diffs I bought are in a silver case while most I've seen are in a blue case and I remember reading a comment from someone that implied there are different ring/pinion gear sets for the lst diffs.

Also, I have been running a 54/20 gear ratio on my revo with the stock diffs.....will going to a 24 tooth pinion be slower or faster than what I'm used too on it with the lst diffs?

[mistercrash]

There's a difference in ratio from the LST diffs and the Losi muggy diffs. Make sure you have the LST diffs which use a 13 tooth pinion and a 43 tooth ring gear. The Losi muggy has a different tooth count.

With the correct LST diffs and a pinion/spur of 24/54, BrianG's speed calculator evaluates the top speed of your E-Revo at around 45 mph which would be about 1 mph faster then what you are used too.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

There's a difference in ratio from the LST diffs and the Losi muggy diffs. Make sure you have the LST diffs which use a 13 tooth pinion and a 43 tooth ring gear. The Losi muggy has a different tooth count.

With the correct LST diffs and a pinion/spur of 24/54, BrianG's speed calculator evaluates the top speed of your E-Revo at around 45 mph which would be about 1 mph faster then what you are used too.

cool deal, I have the right diffs then

I got the bulks and lst diffs fitted together today and tested the fit of the xxl cvd's and discovered that with my rdracing carriers I will be able to use the stock cups the diffs come with, they fit pretty much perfect with the pivot balls screwed in just past the threads, so it's all coming together with surprisingly few problems.

I ordered the kershaw center dogbones and will have to do what you did to make them fit with the rcmonster cups on the diffs I guess.

So a regular drill bit will put a hole through the revo tranny output shaft? Did you have to do that for both sides?

I'm going to use one of the kershaw cups clamped in my drill press as a guide for the bit so hopefully that will keep it centered on the shaft and help with starting the hole.


thanks for the help!

[Bondonutz]

Reguardless of the color (blue,silver,black plastic)of the LST based diffs case the ratio is the same, only the Muggy ratio is different.

The lst diffs are a little different I know that the carrier is a little different the older ones are not as heavy duty as the new ones there are less plastic in them, but I am sure they are still miles better than the stock revo junk. I think the silver cases came from the aftershocks and the blues didnt start showing up till the lst's came out but color doesn't really matter at all. I wouldnt use the cup as jig for drilling unless you dont want to use it again, but that just me.

[Ola]

Yeah, mine front axle was also grinded down some.. Strange my rear fit so good then, but anyway you seem to be all good now!

My diffs where also _very_ tight.. I removed a shim from the ingoing "pinion" drive, and the mesh felt perfect after that.. They where so tight, that i belive it would be a problem.. I had problems tuning them with my fingers in the pinion drive, without cups on.. And they where noisy when turning them fast.

[Shonen]

The first time I took out my LST-equipped E-Revo there was a lot of binding going on in the diffs, particularly the front. It made a grinding noise, but eventually it went away. I took it apart to replace the grease with true diff fluid and the gears didn't look worn so I guess it just took some time to break in?

I hooked up the batteries today to make sure everything worked right and it does except for one thing.

I have it on it's back while doing this.....While giving it some throttle (forward or reverse) it gets this jerkiness like something is catching or dragging when I turn the steering to the stops, left or right...it's smooth when the steering is straight and all the way up too about 85% of maximum throw.
When I have it turned off and turn the steering to the stops and then rotate the tires they spin smoothly, I just can't see anything that would be causing the jerkiness when on throttle and turned fully left or right.

I'm hoping someone has seen this problem and knows what is causing it?

[ZippyBasher]

Are you using a Mamba Monster?

Originally Posted by ZippyBasher

Are you using a Mamba Monster?

yep, 2200 motor and MMM esc

[ZippyBasher]

Do you have a Capacitor (1000+ UF, Maybe 10volt to 16volt) you can solder on a old servo lead and plug it into the battery channel on your Receiver.

My MMM was going nuts without it. Actually cutting off all response...

Something like this:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...iver-Capacitor

You can make one much cheaper though if you have access to an electronics store...

[Shonen]

does it happen at all speeds? does it happen while under load (running)? my Monster combo was kind of notchy at low RPM, particularly under minor load (CVA angle friction). If everything spins smootly when the motor is disconnected, then I wouldn't worry about it. If you're worried about it, turn down the dual rate to 85%. One of my LST2 CVA's did come slightly notchy, never figured out what it is but it works fine. try swapping the front and rear CVA's, it may just be those particular ones.

hmm, played around with it some more and when I try to rotate the wheels while holding them steered full left or right with a little pressure I can feel it get hard to turn every half rotation so It must just be too much of an angle for the cvd's.....I am a little suprised that my revo's steering angle is more than the cvd's can handle but I guess I'll just dial back my end points a few degrees untill the binding goes away, although I hate to give up any turning radius:(

[Ola]

Mine did bind alittle as well, being to deep into the cups..
1mm out on the pivots, and i was all good..

[Shonen]

you won't notice the less steering angle unless you are puttering around at 5mph. there are modifications that drifters (like me) do, is shaving the cup of the CVA stub axle so it can handle higher angle without hitting the CVA bone, but I don't think it will last very long in a heavyweight high torque and relatively high grip monster truck.

run the truck a couple of times and recheck the CVA's, the binding may go away as it breaks in.