| flm maxx chassis brace | carbon fiber | ofna cd | hacker c50 10xl |

[vader2728]

Originally Posted by ANGRY-ALIEN

I think the best option now is to mount it horizontally.

The motor or, for Neil, the truck?

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Originally Posted by vader2728

The motor or, for Neil, the truck?

... Ahm... I was referring to the ESC actually... I'm not so sure about Neil...

[Kcaz25]

HAHA! I'm super glad to see you went with the 1520! Looking great Alien! I can't remember what lipos you said you were going to get? Voltage, cap, all that?

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Hey Zack...I'm happy with the motor choice too... it's a good thing I decided to take advantage of Castle sale... I'm still thinking of running a pair of 5s (between 30C and 40C preferably) lipos in parallel...

Here are the candidates:



ZIPPY Flightmax 3000mAh 5S1P 40C



ZIPPY Flightmax 4000mAh 5S1P 40C



Rhino 4900mAh 5S1P 20C Lipoly Pack



Rhino 3700mAh 5S1P 20C Lipoly Pack

I wanted to add Turnigy to the list, but I haven't seen any with the C rating/cell count i'm looking for.

Alien

[Kcaz25]

I was thinking you were going to use Hyperions. Have you not had any problems with the turnbuckles or the rodends especially in the rear? The proline arms are cool to have but truetracks are incredible! I seriously broke 10-15 rear rodends and bent the turnbuckles up especially in the front. The way the truetracks work make it more durable and kinda more 1/8th scale. I can also strongly reccomend the traxxas tubes(along with 3.3 suspension of course). I use the platitum revo knuckles because they were only a few dollars more and you get bigger bearings. The rodends are beefier on the 3.3 but I was still bustin them so I modded some of THESE. They have to be cut a tad as they are too long and the hole must be made a mm or two bigger. After ~8 months I've only cracked one and replaced it before it stopped a bash session.

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

I was thinking you were going to use Hyperions. Have you not had any problems with the turnbuckles or the rodends especially in the rear? The proline arms are cool to have but truetracks are incredible! I seriously broke 10-15 rear rodends and bent the turnbuckles up especially in the front. The way the truetracks work make it more durable and kinda more 1/8th scale. I can also strongly reccomend the traxxas tubes(along with 3.3 suspension of course). I use the platitum revo knuckles because they were only a few dollars more and you get bigger bearings. The rodends are beefier on the 3.3 but I was still bustin them so I modded some of THESE. They have to be cut a tad as they are too long and the hole must be made a mm or two bigger. After ~8 months I've only cracked one and replaced it before it stopped a bash session.

Zack, Hyperions are way out of my budget... so, I going 'cheap' ... The turnbuckles are great... the rod ends are real big and robust... never had to re-tune them... I have had the truck cartwheel down a
hill and none of them have came lose... I have been considering the 3.3 knuckles though... my friend has been bugging me to get a set... so I'll look at them a little closer.

Alien

[Kcaz25]

Originally Posted by ANGRY-ALIEN

Zack, Hyperions are way out of my budget... so, I going 'cheap' ... The turnbuckles are great... the rod ends are real big and robust... never had to re-tune them... I have had the truck cartwheel down a
hill and none of them have came lose... I have been considering the 3.3 knuckles though... my friend has been bugging me to get a set... so I'll look at them a little closer.

Alien

Cool, cool. "real big and robust", aren't you using 3906 rod ends? The dubro's are real big and robust. But seem to be doing fine!

Get THESE and really surprise him.

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

Cool, cool. "real big and robust", aren't you using 3906 rod ends? The dubro's are real big and robust. But seem to be doing fine!

Get THESE and really surprise him.

The turnbuckles are made from titanium and are designed by UE.... The rod ends appear to be OFNA (1/8 stuff)... the threads are really tight and does require some effort to turn them.
Those are some cool looking knuckles... how long do you think the bearing seats will last? my friend's have gone wobbly, and he has been shimming them to keep the bearings as tight as possible.

Alien

[Kcaz25]

Originally Posted by ANGRY-ALIEN

The turnbuckles are made from titanium and are designed by UE.... The rod ends appear to be OFNA (1/8 stuff)... the threads are really tight and does require some effort to turn them.
Those are some cool looking knuckles... how long do you think the bearing seats will last? my friend's have gone wobbly, and he has been shimming them to keep the bearings as tight as possible.

Alien

OH! I'm sorry, carry on! lol You see my logic however as I thought they were stock 3906.

Your friends 3905 knuckles have wobbly bearing seats? Yeah I don't know. I have the RPM Truetrack knuckles(awesome, has no turnbuckles its much like rear racerX but much cheaper) in the rear and the platinum knuckles in the front. They are lasting a long time. when they go out I will buy the tekno's. I'm loving the thought of the included 8mm stub axles but I can't tell if it'll work with my TRX steel cvds. EDIT: yeah the 8mm stub axles won't work with trx CVDs. oh well I've bent one or two 5mm stubs in the past but now since I've become a better driver I haven't bent another.

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

OH! I'm sorry, carry on! lol You see my logic however as I thought they were stock 3906.

Your friends 3905 knuckles have wobbly bearing seats? Yeah I don't know. I have the RPM Truetrack knuckles(awesome, has no turnbuckles its much like rear racerX but much cheaper) in the rear and the platinum knuckles in the front. They are lasting a long time. when they go out I will buy the tekno's. I'm loving the thought of the included 8mm stub axles but I can't tell if it'll work with my TRX steel cvds. EDIT: yeah the 8mm stub axles won't work with trx CVDs. oh well I've bent one or two 5mm stubs in the past but now since I've become a better driver I haven't bent another.

Made for the 3905 by RPM... and I think those knuckles have done their days... I rather to go with aluminum knuckles just for the sake of having them lasting a little longer... not saying the alloys
won't have their own issues, I just believe they'll work a little better (and look cooler too)... Can you imagine what the teknos would like if they were done over in aluminum? So I will keep
my eyes open for stuff I can grab... I'm going to need a set of CVDs soon too... Cartwheels are pretty hard on them apparently... I would love to have a set of UE 8mm ones, but that's not
going to happen... cost too damn much.

Alien

[Kcaz25]

Originally Posted by ANGRY-ALIEN

Made for the 3905 by RPM... and I think those knuckles have done their days... I rather to go with aluminum knuckles just for the sake of having them lasting a little longer... not saying the alloys
won't have their own issues, I just believe they'll work a little better (and look cooler too)... Can you imagine what the teknos would like if they were done over in aluminum? So I will keep
my eyes open for stuff I can grab... I'm going to need a set of CVDs soon too... Cartwheels are pretty hard on them apparently... I would love to have a set of UE 8mm ones, but that's not
going to happen... cost too damn much.

Alien

Yeah that makes sense. Who makes your aluminum knuckles? Yeah its hard to get these Maxxes just right. By no means am I done with mine yet. I've done some work recently though... I need to update...

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

Yeah that makes sense. Who makes your aluminum knuckles? Yeah its hard to get these Maxxes just right. By no means am I done with mine yet. I've done some work recently though... I need to update...

I have seen a few, mostly on ebay though... I'll need to find some time to read about them later.

A few:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ALUMINUM-STEERIN...item58852cc64f

http://cgi.ebay.com/RDLogics-T-Maxx-...item2c52632869

Others

Not so sure about the quality of these, so I can't even decide for myself which to get.

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

A small update... I got a little impatient, so I mounted the 1520 (firmly) and slapped together the electrics for a small test... rolled the truck around the house for a few moments
and realized that this thing needed to stretched it's 'legs'... there is a significant difference with torque in comparison to the Hacker... I saw no cogging from roll offs or while crawling...
the magnets are very strong in the CC 1520, there will be no need for 'drag brakes' (well I have no real need for it)... the moment I am off the power, the magnets will start slowing the truck.

Well, I took it out (1:00 a.m.) and did some slow rolls just too how 'smooth' the power would come on... man, this motor is impressive (it's my first 4 pole)... Oh, I know some people won't
like this, but I had no choice, so I made the test with NIMHs... I am sure they did not provide the required punch... there is no doubt that this motor has got some serious power...
grabbing the throttle can get a little violent... with the Nimh powered hacker I did not see wheelies off the line... but they were pretty much effortless with 1520... the damn even pulled
the front wheels of the ground while rolling... acceleration was sweet (gearing:15/51)... having all this fun made me forget that this was a test... so I stop to check the temps... the motor was
'cool' and Quark was just a little warmer (no heatsink and no fans). I was a little uncomfortable being outside so late... so I packed it in... I'll try again tomorrow and see if I can get some more
full throttle runs.


Pics of the 'setup':




















Just for the record I am very very happy with the CC 1520...

Alien

[Kcaz25]

Very nice! With the length of this huge motor is there not enough room to mount the esc with fans, hitsinks, and all that like you had it? 4 poles rule! EEK NIMHS

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

Very nice! With the length of this huge motor is there not enough room to mount the esc with fans, hitsinks, and all that like you had it? 4 poles rule! EEK NIMHS

Yep... I have two options... horizontaly with the fans facing downward and horizontaly with the fans facing the motor (this one will allow more air flow over the heatsink)...
with new motor mount i think it will allow me to mount the esc inline with the motor again, but it's going to be a tight fit.