Looking for a buggy project

[BrianG]

By using spacers to lift the battery trays a bit above the dirt guard nibs, I was able to utilize the space over the dirt guards. It's a close fit on the right side since the diff is offset, but it'll work. I don't have the top view pics yet, but when the tray spacers come in, I'll snap a pic.

As you can see by my TP tube mockup, there should be enough room for the body to fit over the motor. The body does bubble a little above the mounting spot, so it should be OK.

The foam is just craft foam. I got it at Wal-Mart in the craft section. There are two types (and many colors); one type is 1mm thick with no adhesive backing. The other type is 2mm thick and has a fairly decent adhesive, which sticks to metal pretty well, but is not messy if you have to remove it.

Using the Neu motor is turning out to be a bit of a PITA due to its size. I am seriously thinking about just going to an LMT. They are longer at 76mm (compared to ~70mm for the 1515), but are normal 36mm diameter vs Neu at ~44mm. Or, I may get the smooth finned Neu motor.

[Tazz]

Originally Posted by BrianG

As you can see by my TP tube mockup, there should be enough room for the body to fit over the motor. The body does bubble a little above the mounting spot, so it should be OK.

I ment if you flip the plastic diff support upside down. By doing this it will raise the center diff and expose the spur gear for pinion gear clearance, but may raise the motor too high and interfere with the body.

[BrianG]

Well, made a little more progress. I decided to use a 4mm spacer under the diff mounts. The motor will clear with room to spare now. I couldn't flip the diff mounts upside down because then the motor would be too high and other fitment problems. Good idea though, but won't work for this.

I used high density plastic bars for the battery tray spacer - much easier than breaking off taps in Al stock. The screws self-tapped nice and tight. The only thing I don't like is the fact that they're white. I don't think paint will work very well, and I'm not sure how well dye will stick to this type of plastic. So, I'll probably just leave them that color.

I made a couple of parts. One is a servo shield. It provides a channel for the steering servo wires to be routed, protects the battery wire from hitting the servo arm mechanism while providing a padded resting spot for the wires. The other is a new diff top plate. I cut out enough room for a 16T pinion, but plan to use 14T or 15T. I also used a Jato tie-rod to help stiffen up the diff mount. The side of the top plate has a spot to route and secure the motor wires from the center diff gear.

A couple of picture from a few angles:

[glassdoctor]

brian, don't forget that the fins on the finned can motors don't go all the way to the ends on the can. There is at least a quarter inch of smooth can at both ends.

Maybe I can meet you sometime and test fit a real neu. ;)

[BrianG]

Thanks Dr, I think I might take you up on that offer sometime! Everything is just so close - I hate not having a little "wiggle" room.

[meatzardd]

wow, very clean conversion, nice

[squeeforever]

Brian, I think dye will work well with the plastic pieces. Try it on a scrap piece....

[BrianG]

Thanks Meat. I'll be waiting a while before purchasing the motor/ESC/batts, so I can take my time to do other stuff right. Still tough with a hacksaw, dremel, and files to work with.

Well, it's kinda like that dense cutting board material you'd find in places like Subway where they make the sandwiches. Sorta translucent at the edges, like it's made of slightly watered down (or skim) milk. It's a little difficult to work with. It's cuts sort of OK, but cleaning up the edges in a PITA. Will dye work on that kind of material? I know, that explanation was not very exact, eh?

[jhautz]

From what you described, that material sounds like its probably acetel (also called delrin). That plastic is not hydroscopic (does not absorb water) so dye will not work very well on it. Most of the plastic parts on a rc that you would typically dye are made of nylon. Nylon is very hydroscopic and dyes very easily.

Anyway. Really sweet conversion. Very clean.

What are those battery straps made out of? Where did you get it? I have been looking for something like that to use instead of gmaxx straps. It looks almost like seatbelt material. That looks like it will hold up much better than the material the gmaxx straps are made from.

[Hydrodancer]

I used to work for a machine shop that made alot of plastic parts and it looks like nylon or Polypropylene to me. Polypro kinda looks like it is made out of compressed "flakes" and their might be a few discolored flakes in them. Its a pain to cut and if you want to get the burrs off you need to use a BRAND NEW razor blade. If you figure out what it is you can find out if it is dieable. OR, just try it.

[glassdoctor]

I'm not Brian :) but I think the straps are made from velcro brand "one wrap"... just basic double sided velcro straps, but they are thick and stiff compared to the gorilla type. It's pretty tough stuff.... I don't think you could tear it very easy.

I like the center diff piece... something I have not taken the time to make for my 777 but always wanted to do. :eek: Fit and finish looks nice... is that "hammered metal" krylon paint I see? :017:

Looking good BG

[BrianG]

As far as the plastic goes; it seems to fit jhautz's description better. Although it is a PITA to deburr and smoothen like Hydrodancer says. Although, once the burrs get small enough, a little flame from a lighter works wonders. :)

Yes, those straps are just double-sided velcro. It's the stuff networking people use to tie up CAT5 cables and such. It comes in a roll about 3/4" wide (at a guess). I just cut the length I need and singe the edges to seal them. It's worked well in my Revo and Jato so why not stick with a good thing? Relatively cheap to replace (a 4" diameter roll is about $6-$7) too when it wears out from repeated opening and closing, or just gets too dirty. I actually would like to use gmaxx straps but I'm too cheap. :)

Yup, that's hammered paint. I went a little too thick on one section so it looks more "hammered" than the rest, but I don't mind. It wears quite well and doesn't chip as easy as other paints I've tried. I use a normal flat black paint as a primer though since the aluminum shows through the "pinholes" in the hammered layer unless you do multiple coats. But it seems to adhere better to a "primered" layer even though I'm not using true primer.

The only reason I made the diff piece is to stiffen it up. I plan to attach part of the motor mount to one of the uprights and wanted minimal flex, if any.

Thanks!

[Hydrodancer]

:012: :012: :012: :012:
I hate being wrong.
Now you HAVE TO try to die them!:018:

[BrianG]

OK OK, I will. It had better work! ;)

[jhautz]

while nylon also has a kind of milky color in its natural state it has more of a yellowish tint to it than what I see in your pictures.

If it is Polyprop. That won't dye well either. I use polyprop. containers to dye in cuz it doesnt stain them.