Getting Race Ready!

[nbcaznmaster]

i contacted the seller of the balencer. He says that the green means fully charged. also, woudl it really matter if one pack is drained more than the other? hte lvc woudl detect the lowest volt pack and cut it off before the voltage drops too much.

Also, would a rd quickturn work on a e-revo? i was thinking bout making one for my e-maxx center drive shafts.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by nbcaznmaster

i contacted the seller of the balencer. He says that the green means fully charged. also, woudl it really matter if one pack is drained more than the other? hte lvc woudl detect the lowest volt pack and cut it off before the voltage drops too much.

Also, would a rd quickturn work on a e-revo? i was thinking bout making one for my e-maxx center drive shafts.

If you are running both packs in series, then you would have reduced runtime as the pack with less charge will dump first.

The quickturn will work, except if you are using the motor brake, only the back wheels will brake. Also, if you still have reverse, only the back tires will drive.

[nbcaznmaster]

lol, aint got much choices with these volts. Gotta do series. Tried out my limn packs for first time, killer packs! just as much power as the 16 cells. I like how its SOO much lighter, when it does jumps, i dont worry about breakign stuff. Prob is the brake fade is a bithc. Im tired of my undebpendable nitro. When i drive next year, ima race electric all the wya. The major problem is the overkil with the torque. I wheelie too much. How would u suggest solving this? Also, my driveshafts cant take that type of abuse. ANy alternatives?

[squeeforever]

Yea. I made one and love it. It handles great.

[nbcaznmaster]

made one...what? race revo?

[squeeforever]

Made a oneway...

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by nbcaznmaster

lol, aint got much choices with these volts. Gotta do series. Tried out my limn packs for first time, killer packs! just as much power as the 16 cells. I like how its SOO much lighter, when it does jumps, i dont worry about breakign stuff. Prob is the brake fade is a bithc. Im tired of my undebpendable nitro. When i drive next year, ima race electric all the wya. The major problem is the overkil with the torque. I wheelie too much. How would u suggest solving this? Also, my driveshafts cant take that type of abuse. ANy alternatives?

A center diff would help unload the rear on strong takeoff. Or, just use finer throttle control. You could also play with the settings in the Quark so it doesn't send as much power to the motor at once. This might also help your runtime.

[squeeforever]

I don't think he has a Quark...

[nbcaznmaster]

nope 9920.

[BrianG]

Oops, nevermind about the settings then.

The centerdiff would help, but you're probably not using the stock Revo tranny either.

So, that leaves you with better throttle control...

[squeeforever]

Yea...Learn how to drive...

[nbcaznmaster]

lol, even god cant help me now! :(

[BrianG]

:005:

[nbcaznmaster]

You all believe electric could own nitro on tracks right? should i sell out all my nitro and focus on electric? What i hate is the fragility of of electric. I want a setup which i can bash like crazy and not worry about damage. I can confidently take my revo off a 9ft jump but not my electric one.

[BrianG]

Why can't you bash the electrics? A LOT of it depends on how the conversion was done. Was it just thrown together or was it done with structural integrity in mind? If both versions of the same vehicle are about the same weight, then it shouldn't matter.

Usually, when I do a conversion, I look at how the Nitro version is set up to see what considerations were made for chassis flex, stress points, etc and try to duplicate those (or at least compensate) in the electric version.

You can't forget; the companies who make these trucks have a lot of R&D invested in it. I'm sure they have tried different designs before releasing the one you see on the shelves. We are simply slapping an electric motor (and other parts) in there with basically no testing phase to find weak spots. Plus, they are designed to handle Nitro power, not electric, so you need to specifically strengthen parts that are stressed from the extra power.