1920 overworked?

[Hickoryhead]

I am thinking about putting my 1920\7 into a CRT .5 with a MM and 2 2s2p 6000 mah's ran in series for speed or Parallel for run time. Is that too much battery for the 1920 if its ran in series? If I update to the MMM someday I will need 2 more batteries so I am thinking of using what I have for a CRT .5. Any thoughts?

[Finnster]

One of those batteries is as big as I would go into a CRT.5. You don't want it to be too heavy or it will drive like crap and break easily. 4S 6000mah is bigger than some put in 1/8th scales which are twice the size as the .5.

I have a 1920/10 (3135kv) on mine on 3S and I love it. Small but powerful and stays cool no matter the gearing. I've ran mashers on it geared 14/46 (at least equiv to a 18/46 gearing on stock tires) and it ran cool. On 13/46 on mashers it hit a top spd of 46 on radar. I'm able to backflip the truck pretty easily if I hammer it at spd, but not so much TQ to make it too easy and undriveable.

The only thing is I am drawing a good deal of amps. ~75A on the higher gearing. The 7 turn will draw more if geared aggressively. Hopefully you have a hi-amp version. If not I would watch the gearing or considering rewiring to delta to give ~2800 kv and think about smaller batts on 4S or even 3S for very track worthy spds.

[GO-RIDE.com]

I have to agree that lighter is better with the crt.5. I run the maxamps 2S 4200s and that is as big of a batt as I would go. I also run a S can sized motor to further keep the weight down. Not only does the car handle better when it is lighter it is also a lot more durable. When possible I even run the stock wheels instead of 2.2 truck wheels. The truck wheels lead to more broken parts.

[Hickoryhead]

Thanks. Just thinking about stuff at the moment. The batteries and MM are helping a 1950 puch a Revo around at the moment. I just wanted to make sure a 1920 would be good for a CRT. Thanks.