What if the Motor/ESC/LiPo is too hot?

Just a quick question, because I saw difference answers


If:
The Motor is too hot: Overgeared
The ESC is too hot: Motor wants too much Ampere
The LiPo is too hot: LiPo can't deliver enough Ampere for the ESC+Motor

Is this right?

Thanks,

- Patrick

[jnev]

If the motor is hot, it can actually be from being under-geared as the motor would then be over-revving causing it to heat up. The ESC heating up can be from being over-geared. And the lipo being hot can be from the motor pulling more juice from the battery than it can give.

[lincpimp]

Plus the esc can heat up if the battery cannot keep up with the amp draw and the voltage drops. With good batteries, you will find most heat either comes from poor quality motors, or over geared setups. Or very poor matching of components to the requirements of the vehicle. The general rules apply to properly matched and setup systems.

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

What temps are you getting?

Originally Posted by DRIFT_BUGGY

What temps are you getting?

I don't know exactly what temps I get, but I know it's too hot, I drove 1 minute or something with my Vendetta with a Mamba-25, 8000kv brushless motor, and a 11.1V LiPo, on a slippy underground... (In the house)
Maybe it was something like 40-50C (104-122F)

I waited some time till the Mamba-25 was on Normal room temperature, then I took my 7.2V nimh pack (for 1:10 scales) and put it in the Vendetta, drove 2 minutes and the temperature was still too hot for just that 1 minute..

My gearing is 15/45
Motor: Mamba 8000kv
ESC: Mamba-25
11.1V LiPo 1350mAh Rhino

Help please?
P.S. The motor doesn't get hot at all, it has the same temperature as he had before the run, and the LiPo has the same temperature also before I started running the Vendetta..

[suicideneil]

What is 'it' exactly- you really do need an accurate temp gauge or IR gun, they only cost about $20 or so and are invaluable.

If its your esc that is getting how and the motor isnt, that sounds like over gearing- if the battery is upto task, it wont get hot regardless of over or under gearing to a certain degree. Lots of back and forth driving indoors will also heat the esc up quicker than normal as you arent using full throttle (escs are only efficient at 100% throttle, anything less and they will heat up more rapidly).

Originally Posted by suicideneil

What is 'it' exactly- you really do need an accurate temp gauge or IR gun, they only cost about $20 or so and are invaluable.

If its your esc that is getting how and the motor isnt, that sounds like over gearing- if the battery is upto task, it wont get hot regardless of over or under gearing to a certain degree. Lots of back and forth driving indoors will also heat the esc up quicker than normal as you arent using full throttle (escs are only efficient at 100% throttle, anything less and they will heat up more rapidly).

I will look for a Temp gun soon!

Oh, another strange thing: If I put the Battery on the ESC, and don't do anything, no steering, giving no throttle, or any other things, the ESC gets a little warm

[suicideneil]

The built-in BEC will still draw current and thats whats generating the small amount of heat most likely- always best to unplug the battery if you arent using the vehicle for any length of time.

Ok, finally I bought a temp gun..

I did a 1 minute run in our house ( Can't give full throttle ) and after that minute it was 180F!! That's too hot.. Somebody know a solution? My cousin gave me a huge aluminium heat sink, I will try to get that on the Mamba-25..
But are they maybe some other solutions?
And can somebody tell me if this is normal or not? (I dont think so)

IMO nyour problem is your setup, a 8000kv Castle motor on 3s will run HOT, either run a lower kv motor with the 3s pack or run a 2s pack with the 8000kv motor.....you need a better balanced sysytem

[E-Revonut]

Your gearing with that motor and 3s is just plain impractical inside, looks more like a speed run setup! I ran a 5400kv 55/15 gearing and 2s in an rc18t and that was too fast for inside, it wasn't bad on 6s NiMh though. I would recomend dropping the 3s especially on an 8000kv motor and possibly a lower kv motor, at least for indoor use.

Originally Posted by E-Revonut

Your gearing with that motor and 3s is just plain impractical inside, looks more like a speed run setup! I ran a 5400kv 55/15 gearing and 2s in an rc18t and that was too fast for inside, it wasn't bad on 6s NiMh though. I would recomend dropping the 3s especially on an 8000kv motor and possibly a lower kv motor, at least for indoor use.

I want to do speedruns yes


I programmed it with the Castle Link, and set it to default. It's much better already! But still too hot for me..
In a few days I will buy a Castle 1/8 combo, so with a MMM, and I will use the MMM for those speedruns. The 8000kv motor doesn't get hot at all, today it was 95F.

But it's very hard to control the car, after 2 Battery packs I gaved full throttle, but that thing is really hard to handle
I put a 3550KV brushless motor in it a few hours ago, and the ESC doesn't get hot at all now. The only problem is that if I'm giving full throttle forward it's slower than that I'm giving full throttle reverse...

[lincpimp]

You most likely have the esc programmed to your radio incorrectly. Reprogram the esc to the radio and make sure the green light is coming on when you are going forwards. If the red light is on you need to reverse your throttle channel, resetup the radio to the esc and possibly swap 2 of the motor wires to get it going forward with forward throttle and the green light on.

[E-Revonut]

You have a speedrun setup and trying to use it inside, your not able to give full throttle which is where the esc operates the most efficiently. Your gonna put a MMM in place of a Mamba 25? Are we on the same page here? You are talking about a vendetta 1/18th touring car right? If not what is the vehicle? If it's something that really needs a bigger esc and your using a Mamba 25 that's prolly the problem