Traxxas lightweight Emaxx tranny gears/shafts any good - RC-Monster Forums

Finnster · 01:37 PM

I was just looking at some of the X parts for the emaxx tranny, namely the lightweight Alu idler shafts and possibly the alu output shaft replaceing all the heavy steel stuff. Has anyone used any of these? I have the steel idler, like everybody, if that makes a diff. I would guess the lightweight input shaft is a def no go for a BL setup.

Opinions?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXF53&P=7

squeeforever · 09.24.2006, 01:36 PM

The output shaft will be shredded in no-time. The idler shafts are good though since they don't have any stress on them...

maXXler · 09.24.2006, 01:58 PM

Quote:

The output shaft will be shredded in no-time. The idler shafts are good though since they don't have any stress on them...

100 points! Pls do not by this waste...

Serum · 09.24.2006, 02:26 PM

Yeah, they are a true waste, even with the stock motors you wil trash them.

The pinions on the normal inputshaft are made of hardened steel, while these are coated aluminum ones. (less ideal for a gear in this application)

They will leave the building sooner than stockers, so for one race it wouldn't hurt, but if you want a durable truck, stay away from them.

Finnster · 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeeforever

The output shaft will be shredded in no-time. The idler shafts are good though since they don't have any stress on them...

What part of the output shaft do you think will be shredded? The shaft itself is thick, so I don't see that as a prob there. The dog gear is plastic, so if that holds up I would think a alu ~8mm hex would. The only questionable part in my mind is the actual output shaft connectors to the center drive shafts.

Not trying to be arguementitive, just looking for elaboration... The idler gear shaft can be had seperately, but for $6 I wonder if its worth a shot?

Not looking at the input shaft at all, that def seems like a deathwish.

Serum · 09.24.2006, 02:39 PM

the aluminum is too weak to be used in such a stressful way. it's the part on the outputcups that goes bad. If you use stock arms all around, it would last a bit longer, due to the flex in the drivetrain. but eventually they WILL go sooner than stockers.. so it's the little part on the output shaft that will be torn off.

The inputshaft will last longer than the outputshaft. the outputshaft is a deathwish. there is more stress on the output than on the input shaft. in fact, with the inputshaft, you have got the normal steel shaft, which uses aluminum gears. (that makes him lightweight)

I used them both, and ditched them.

a user on this forum once showed pics of his broken output shaft, which obviously was the lightweight type.

it's for racers only. One race they should be fine, but i don't think they are durable enough to put faith in during a race.

Finnster · 09.24.2006, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum

the aluminum is too weak to be used in such a stressful way. it's the part on the outputcups that goes bad. If you use stock arms all around, it would last a bit longer, due to the flex in the drivetrain. but eventually they WILL go sooner than stockers.. so it's the little part on the output shaft that will be torn off.

The inputshaft will last longer than the outputshaft. the outputshaft is a deathwish. there is more stress on the output than on the input shaft. in fact, with the inputshaft, you have got the normal steel shaft, which uses aluminum gears. (that makes him lightweight)

I used them both, and ditched them.

a user on this forum once showed pics of his broken output shaft, which obviously was the lightweight type.

it's for racers only. One race they should be fine, but i don't think they are durable enough to put faith in during a race.

Ok, thanks! I thought that part may be a prob, but wanted to get some user opinions!

Serum · 09.24.2006, 02:46 PM

that's what we are here for.. :p

squeeforever · 09.24.2006, 03:12 PM

I think Coolhand was the one that posted the picture. Not positive though...

Procharged5.0 · 09.25.2006, 12:50 PM

I sitting here wondering if I should even comment.............

I have all of the lightweight/high performance parts in my e-maxx trans. I also have the robinson dual slipper.

I have had ZERO breakage in several years of use. I would even be willing to photopgraph and post pics of the parts if you don't believe me. They look like new.

I use stock Titans, EVX, and 6-cell GP3300's. I've done plenty of bashing (including clearing doubles on a bmx track, 20'+ apart) and numerous races without a failure or a problem and with no obvious wear.

So, one of two things is happening (or maybe both).......

1) I am an excellent mechanic and assemble things properly and with great care.

2) I'm not running brushless (yet) so I'm not tearing things up

I can see where the output shaft could get torn up with 1000+ watts of brushless but not with 240-300 watts of 550 motor.

glassdoctor · 01:04 PM

Answer is #2 ;)

BL is much harder on the drivetrain....

The lightweight top shaft gears would be fine running with plastic gear but I don't think they would hold up well with a steel idler.

BTW those top shaft gears make nice pinions for 5mm motors.

Procharged5.0 · 09.25.2006, 01:08 PM

Thanks wise guy!

So your saying #1 and #2!

:027:

Serum · 01:12 PM

Procharged.. Do you use the stock drivetrain or do you use rigid cvd's all around?

I said the input is less weak than the output. i had them in my maxx and dumped them. aluminum gears on steel gears is a nogo. stock idlers are a waste too, i manage to brake them in 2 runs. (even with the singlespeed conversion)

trust me, i know my way around in mechanic-land, and i am a perfectionist in smoothing out gears, but they are just weak products.

Anyway, the lightweight parts will wear faster than the stock steel ones, this statement is a true as a statement can be.

Procharged5.0 · 09.25.2006, 01:25 PM

Serum,

My comments were not intended to contradict yours. I'm just curious about your experience with the parts.

Steel gears on aluminum is a no go, I agree.

I've used both stock and CVD on the current config. The CVD's are more recent and before you say it, yes I know the stock flexi-shafts are a saving grace for the drivetrain.

BTW, I never doubt your mechanical genius.........but I've been wrenching on model cars, planes, and boats for 30 years plus full scale boats, motorcycles and racecars (not boy-racer wannabe cars either) for 25. I know what I'm doing and what I'm talking about but I also know that I can learn from other's experiences and knowledge too!

finally......I'll probably be pulling out the lightweight stuff when the brushless system goes in. (Neumotor & Quark 125B or Monster Mamba Maxx...TBD)

Serum · 09.25.2006, 01:45 PM

Yeah, it was just a few words in your reply that i used too in my earlier posts.. arh well, no offense taken of-course.. My reaction may seem upset, but to get me p'd off you need to come a long way, really.. i am more straight forward than p'd off.. I can understand that this comes down offended.

I know you can learn from one and another, listen, observe the opinions of other technicians. sometimes people (especially companies) forget that. I emailed nova about a diffcup for the revo, and pointed them at some critical errors, but do you think they take your word for it and tell you that they messed up? no way....

My dad was my hardcore technician, a precision tool-maker, who brought his work home and made his hobby his work. and he enjoyed sharing it with me. I was 9 when i helped him adjusting the valves on his car. Not bragging, it was just a hobby, he let me and observed, come to talk about it, i think of this; He told me when he couldn't get to sleep at night, that he started thinking about how a steam-engine worked.. this works for me too.. LOL i think we come down from the same road.. I don't have got your age yet, and i hope to reach it. Man, i am allmost getting sentimental..

the problem with the output shaft;

if you use a CVD, (such as the MIP) it uses 2 setscrews to hold the cup on to the shaft. I flattened them so the contact area was as large as possible, so i had the biggest stress divided. but you will get play on them sooner or later and you need to tighten them again.. Untill you get more play.. and so on, until you are thru the material. the place where you put the screws on, is the very same place where the hole is.

With a stock center driveline i can imagine it would hold up longer. (the thru-pin and the flex help) but the stock hard steel parts will last longer.