Quark fried, blown capacitor...

[MetalMan]

I just resoldered the motor wires, since I needed to put some heatshrink over them anyways. I used pliers to compress each set of two wires together while the iron was on them to get the best contact possible.

[zeropointbug]

Great! I can't wait to here how it runs then afterwards.

Just wondering, does anyone know how a 1512/2Y performs/handles with 6s LiPo?

OK, I just found a deal on a 1512 1.5Y that I couldn't pass up. So begins a Neu chapter. I guess I'm about to find out is the caps and wiring make a difference.

I don't think there is a 1512 1Y. Do you mean 1512 2Y? 1400kv motor? If so, I would imagine that it would be bad a$$; and I mean that in a good and bad way. I've found anything more than 4S to be good for nothing but speed runs. It's even too much for bashing. The torque is insane. With my 9XL on 5S, just blipping the throttle too hard puts my truck on its roof.

If you go with the 2Y on 6S lipo, all I can recommend is Gorilla glue for the tires instead of CA, and forget about bead locks. Or actually, maybe bead locks AND Gorilla glue.

[zeropointbug]

Yes, I meant 2Y, sorry (Edited)

I would like to upgrade my motor from my 7XL someday (no time soon), and I want to keep about the same power as my 7Xl setup but be running 6s LiPo for low current setup and cool runnings.


I'm just throwing this out there: Does anyone have a burnt out Quark that is far past warranty date and doesn't mind giving it up for tests? This would be for measurements and fitting tests with my custom quark case.

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

I'm just throwing this out there: Does anyone have a burnt out Quark that is far past warranty date and doesn't mind giving it up for tests? This would be for measurements and fitting tests with my custom quark case.

Why yes I do. I stripped one down to make it run cooler, and it got into a fight with my spur gear (and lost). it has no heat pads, and some slight damage to it, but good to pry at and see how their made. I'd be glad to see it go to some use.

Have you added a place for 4 caps yet? I cut part of my case off and put 3 caps across from the other 2 caps, and 1 more next to them. 4 caps added right to the board. (FrankenQuark!!)



I love my Quark, I mod everything for racing , so 'fixing it' was going to happen anyway. The tips in this thread have been very helpfull.

[zeropointbug]

So what do you mean, is it fried then?

I will only accept it if it is non-usable to you. Thanks in advance! :027:

[zeropointbug]

AAngel: IIRC, it was you that said you talked to Frank at S&T and said there was a banch of Quark's with bad caps? Did he say when these were made, or when they were sold?

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

So what do you mean, is it fried then?

I will only accept it if it is non-usable to you. Thanks in advance! :027:

Fried, chewed up a little, missing parts. It came loose from the chassis of my 8ight, right after I removed ALL of its case (reckless of me), and was killed by the spur gear. After it died, I used it as a guide to figure out how I was going to do mods on its replacement. (I wanted to add caps to the board, and repair the faulty inner FETs heat sink design, and found where the two 'boards' seperate making it a lot easier.)

I'm done tinkering with it, and threw it into my broken parts box. Its missing 1 cap, the on/off switch, and both heat sinks. (heat batteries is more like it)

I have the case, and 2 sets of end covers as well if you need these. Let me know.

I use UPS, they go up north dont they? If not, I think its small enough for U.S. Mail. E-Me and let me know, I'd be more then happy to ship it to you.

The info in this thread was well worth it, and I may want to be on the list for your after market case too.....:027:

ZPB, if cooler running is your goal, you don't need to go to voltage extremes. I, like you, have envisioned a higher voltage system that would draw fewer amps and run cooler. I thought that I could reach a point with a Feigao motor that would run cool. I've progressed downward from the 7XL, to the 8XL, and now to the 9XL. I tried just going slower and adding voltage. What I have discovered is that the cheapo Feigao motors are going to run hot no matter what, in any setup that delivers any sort of respectable performance.

I've read a few posts of guys talking about their 9XL or 10XL setups running ice cold. After my experimentation and experiences, I think that they are either full of it, or they just aren't pushing their setup.

I've talked with Mike about the subject on the phone and the conversation was a revelation to me. He informed me that just going with a more efficient motor will significantly cut the running temp of the motor and you can still run on 4S.

If you think about it, the Feigao is only about 80% efficient, at best. The Neu motors are about 90% efficient. I'd imagine that most would say that there is only a 10% difference in efficiency and that it couldn't make that much of a difference. Well, there is only a 10% difference in efficiency, but that's not the way to look at it. If you really think about it, the Neu is only wasting half as much energy as heat as the Feigao motor is. This means that the Neu motor will run much cooler. If you want cooler running, then go with a more efficient motor. No need to kill yourself running higher voltage just to run cooler.

I, personally, have found 4S to be the best way to go for racing and gets the job done for bashing. Higher voltage is good for going fast. If fast is what you want, then go for it; but going to 6S with a Feigao isn't going to get you a cool running setup. I don't think so anyway. I haven't seen it.

[wallot]

If adding CAP bank to ESC isnt bettter to add just one cap with higher capacity? like 2200uF? they even have lower ESR than thesmall ones.

[zeropointbug]

AAngel: Yeah, I know that even switching from a Feigao to a Neu or Lehner will make a huge difference. I too, like to consider that (80 to 90%) as being twice as efficient. But I don't really want a Feigao motor like you said, I want a Neu with a very low Kv, and run as high voltage as I can on my Quark (hopefully that is 6s if better/more caps help) to KEEP the same power as a ~7Xl on 4s. I would prob run 6s/5000mAh.

6s doesn't always mean extreme power... 6s on the 1512/2Y is 30,000rpm, and how much torque does it have? Same as an XL Fiegao? It won't be crazy at all, IMO.

Wallot: Using smaller is better than using one large one because the larger you go the worse the ESR is relative to their capacity rating. Typically. 220, 330uF caps are a good size to use.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by wallot

If adding CAP bank to ESC isnt bettter to add just one cap with higher capacity? like 2200uF? they even have lower ESR than thesmall ones.

One large capacitor has less surface area than several smaller caps of the same total value. This helps the caps shed the heat better. Also, don't forget that you combine the ESR values of several small caps just like resistors in parallel so the effective ESR will be about the same, if not lower, than one larger capacity cap.

So, to get 2200uF, you would need ten 220uF caps in parallel. Then, if each of those 220uF caps have 0.01 ohms of ESR, that would equate to 0.001 ohms total.

Smaller caps may be easier to physically install as they can be arranged in any formation to make it fit. The only downside to use multiple caps is the wiring hassle.

[wallot]

is there any capacity limit (total in paralel) that i should not go over?

[zeropointbug]

No, no limit at all. You just have to remember that the larger the capacity, the larger the spark will be upon plugging batts into controller.