Need help with 1st BL setup in Emaxx!!

Hey guys, I'm new to the forums.

OK, first, I got a sweet Emaxx roller off ebay recently. It needs only a tranny, and electronics and motor of course.

Without a doubt in my mind I want to go brushless. I already have a BL Rustler with a mm5700, and use four 6cell, and two 7cell nimh packs with it.

SO basically I need some help gathering up EVERY part I need for my Emaxx to become RTR right out of the first shipment box. I have had it sitting in my room now for too long, and I wouldn't want to order some stuff, wait 2 weeks to get it, just to realize I need to order more parts and wait another 2 weeks... ya know what I mean!

Ok, I think for now I am going to use my MM ESC from my rustler, and use the same battery packs (12cell, and 14 cell setups for the emaxx). ALso, I am going to buy a tranny from ebay w/ the blue dual motor mount and stock spur gear (not sure what it is).

So would this be a good setup?? Im looking for a relatively low priced setup, but one that would keep up with Tmaxx 3.3's and that would wheelie on command:

Feigao 8XL Motor
RC Monster Heatsink XL size
5mm bore 32 pitch pinion gears (what one for stock spur???)
STeel Idler

ANd Maybe:
SIngle Speed Conversion
Single motor mount
(I say maybe because both seem really pricey for just a piece of metal)

A few Q's
1. Will the feigao motor be able to mount to the stock motor mount or the G1 single motor mount - with the heatsink attatched?
2. Will the stock spur gear hold up very long to the power of the BL motor?
3. WHat gearing is recommended?

I've been doing research for weeks now about all this but I am still kinda sketchy about everything and really want to get the right setup!

Thanks

[Serum]

Welcome!

about your q's;

1 yes, it uses the standard 25mm hole distance, and bolts up right onto the stock plate, and the stock spur uses a 32 pitch pinion.
2 That depends on your drivestyle. If you have got a gentle finger, the stock spur can last forever. if you like to bash and drive it like an on/off switch, it's wise to upgrade to a strobe slipper with MOD1 gears (both spur and pinion)
3 that depends on the speed you want to do. Check the sticky in the brushless section; if you go to the post of BrianG you'll see the speed calculator, and you can calculate the gearing you want.

A stock maxx has got a few flaws; the input gears are put onto the shaft with a hollow pin; replace this pin with a hardened nail or something, the hollow pin will break sooner or later. Another weak flaw; the idlers; replace them with steel ones. The stock driveshafts are rather weak too. but my advice is; drive it till you break it; except for the diffs; i recommend using the new 3.3 housings (they use a 4 instead of 2 screw design) and FLM diffcups with M3 screws.

But if you drive it careful, the stock maxx can last quite a while! but the first upgrades are steel idlers and the input shafts mod.

Thanks for your reply Serum.

Ok some follow up Q's if ya don't mind.

1. If I where to buy the Strobe Slipper kit, a mod1 pinion, and mod1 spur....is this all I need for it to work right away, or are there other components I need to get??

2. Which 8XL is faster? the Feigao or the Wanderer?


Also, the roller came with aluminum diffs... and has a spool in the rear one. Not sure if thats gonna be an issue or not.

[suicideneil]

Welcome.
1. That is all you will require, but a selection of pinions & spurs would be ideal to allow fine tuning of the gearing- checkout Brian G's calculator.
2.The feigao & wanderer are identical except for colour, they both do 2084 rpms per kv, so using 14-16 cells would be perfect for good speed/power.
Aluminium diffs you say, I take it you mean the casing is alloy. The diffcup in side the casing should be upgraded to an alloy one using larger 3mm screws to fix the ring gear to it (sold in the RC-monster store)- you will need two for both diffs. As for the spool issue..... it will hamper your turning & steering ability alot at speed, but then again it will allow you to put 100% of the power down in a straight line (drag racing). Personally I would get a 3.3 diff from ebay and the upgraded alloy cup/ring gear from here to put into the rear axle.

Do you have a link to the item page on ebay so we can have a look-see?

thanks for your help suicideneil

Here is a link to the ebay roller I acquired:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...0629&rd=1&rd=1

Sorry, I should have been more specific. The diff casings are aluminum. I am not to familiar with the maxx trucks yet.

As for the alloy casing you are talking about, are these them?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...zerdiff&cat=47
Wow they are expensive if I am going to buy two, on top of everything else I need. Maybe they can wait.

Also, I can only seem to find 51T ofna mod1 spur gears.

[suicideneil]

Okay. Im not too familiar with Maxx trucks either, but I built mine from scratch so I l know every screw & nut as it were- studying the exploded views on the Traxxas website helps alot in understanding the beast.
On the diff front... red... yummy. You can get 3.3 diffs off of ebay really easily like I said & so long as you learn to start off gently, then floor it, they should hold up really well for a long time, then upgrade/replace as required, so dont be too worried about spending loads of money on stronger parts- that roller has most of the parts you need for bashing anyway.
The parts you will need though:

1. CVDs or 3.3 slider shafts & knuckles- stock emaxx shafts are poo poo with BL power.
2. Tranny, obviously. Ebay is the best bet, otherwise you need a million small parts to build one (no fun that).
3. As for the Mod1 gears, I would only go down that route if you are into serious bashing/ racing with a super powerful truck. You can get 5mm bore 32 pitch gears which will be fine.

I would though dismantle the bulkheads and clean them up with some oven cleaner to remove the worn anodzing, same too with the diff cases (dismantle first & pay attention to how they go back together). Apart from that its a pretty sound truck.

ok great...thanks. Both yourself and Serum have been a big help!

I will get the tranny and 3.3 sliders and centers shafts from ebay for sure....and the 3.3 diffs as well.

Am I going to need a ubec? I thought the MM has one built in?

[suicideneil]

It does have a built in BEC, but they are pretty much usless with anything over 12cells. The UBEC mike sells is great, or you can get one of these:

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SportBEC.htm

So long as it can handle the number of cells/ voltage you are planning on using, it will be fine. It solders onto the + & - of the escs battery wires- right behind the plugs is best.

ok gotcha.

I was using the calculator, and gearing of 18/51 (mod1) would give me a top speed of 36mph... this is fine with me, but will this gearing produce wheelies on command?

Im kinda looking for a good mix of top speed and torque.

Maybe 15/51 would be a better choice (30.8mph), for medium sized open areas for bashing, and small tracks?

ALso, does the stobe slipper kit come with a 51t spur? it doesnt say so Im guessing I will have to get one. IS this my only choice?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=ofn30110

[Serum]

The 3.3 shafts require updated arms, i don't know what arms are on the truck.

perhaps the truck comes with aluminum cups allready?

No, the strobe requires a 51T spur; not included. it sets you back another $7.5. :)

[Patrick]

Originally Posted by BLRusty

As for the alloy casing you are talking about, are these them?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...zerdiff&cat=47
Wow they are expensive if I am going to buy two, on top of everything else I need. Maybe they can wait.

Also, I can only seem to find 51T ofna mod1 spur gears.

Yeah, 51t spur is basically the only choice you have when using the strobe, that's not much of an issue though.

There are also FLM diff cups http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=FLM13010 and they are a bit cheaper than the Maxximizers. I've had some in my e-maxx (7XL on 12 and 14 cells) since around christmas, and so far nothing has broken in the diffs.
They are made of a softer alluminium than the Maxximizers and I've heard they can start to wear where the pins go, but I haven't taken mine apart again to look at so I'm not sure how much of an issue that is.
If two seems too expensive still you could try using just one in the rear, since that takes most of the force during accleleration (the front wheels are going to be up in the air of course :027: ), the front half of the drive train usually lasts a bit longer in my experience.

Originally Posted by Serum

The 3.3 shafts require updated arms, i don't know what arms are on the truck.

There are RPM a-arms on the truck now... will the 3.3 shafts work with these?? I also snagged a set of four 3.3 knuckles since I hear you need them for the shafts as well. I also got two 3.3 diffs from ebay like suicideneil recommended. Hopefully they hold up for a while until I get some more cash to upgrade to alloy cups.

[Serum]

They require a new type of the 3.3 arms; there is a small notch in them on the upper and lower one to enable the use of the big fat shaft.

ok so the 3.3 shafts won't work with the RPM arms?? Is there any modding of the arms I can do to make them fit? Im not sure of the notch you are talking about, I will try to find a good pic of it to see what you mean...

I already went ahead and won an ebay bid on these....

[suicideneil]

Take a look at these pics:







you can see that the arm is thinner and has had material removed. You want to take a dremel + drumsander attachment and carefully remove some material in the areas I've circled. Go easy though as you dont need to remove much- test fit one set of A-arms and if need be remove a tiny bit more, then just repeat the process with all the A-arms.