Ofna DM-One Brushless Conversion (DM-1) - Page 3 - RC-Monster Forums

jhautz · 10.24.2007, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

I am curious, do Lehners not mind the higher rpm's like the Neu's? Or do they up a bit when hitting the redline?

From my experience they are boyh top notch motors with little to no heat problems. I run a 1940\7 2239kv motor on 5s in my Savage all day with no issues.

phildogg · 10.25.2007, 01:35 PM

the car looks great.. would like to see it run..
phil

What's_nitro? · 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

I am curious, do Lehners not mind the higher rpm's like the Neu's? Or do they up a bit when hitting the redline?

I try to keep them at or less than 40K. That seems to be the point where they'll start to become excessively hot during runs. Like my XL 2800 on 4s (42K unloaded) got really hot after about 10 minutes of sprinting. The larger cans may be able to run faster, longer because they can dissipate more heat. Plus, the Lehner motors a rated with a load. Unfortunately, they don't specify what that load is.

jhautz · **Video -** 10.31.2007, 09:41 AM

Well its done. I ran it on Sunday for a test run and got a short video.

When I get a chance in the next couple days I'll post up some proper pictures of the finished car and final conversion details, but for now here is a short video of its maiden run I complied and uploaded last night. I finished up the run by sliding sideways into the curb and cracking the side body post.

This was a function of severe brake fade. They were hardly working by that point. The stock brakes are not going to cut it. I ordered a set of phenolic disks for the Jammin buggy. Should be drop in replacments and will hopefully reduce the fade. I'm going to double them up. The stock setup has only one disk.

The body on the car in the video is borrowed from another guy that has a DM-1. My body wasnt painted yet and without a body it had no traction what so ever and was almost impossible to keep going straight. Its amazing how much the body matters for on road. Other than the brakes it ran great no issues with the rest of the systems. I didnt really have much room to open it up where I was testing it. I was hardly getting past 1/2 throttle. I seemed to handle pretty well, but I'm really looking forward to Friday night and our regular parking lot oval race and getting it out to give it a good test run, check heats after exended hard run times. Just hoping for good weather on Friday. I'll try and get some better vid then too.

lutach · 10.31.2007, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhautz

Well its done. I ran it on Sunday for a test run and got a short video.

When I get a chance in the next couple days I'll post up some proper pictures of the finished car and final conversion details, but for now here is a short video of its maiden run I complied and uploaded last night. I finished up the run by sliding sideways into the curb and cracking the side body post.

This was a function of severe brake fade. They were hardly working by that point. The stock brakes are not going to cut it. I ordered a set of phenolic disks for the Jammin buggy. Should be drop in replacments and will hopefully reduce the fade. I'm going to double them up. The stock setup has only one disk.

The body on the car in the video is borrowed from another guy that has a DM-1. My body wasnt painted yet and without a body it had no traction what so ever and was almost impossible to keep going straight. Its amazing how much the body matters for on road. Other than the brakes it ran great no issues with the rest of the systems. I didnt really have much room to open it up where I was testing it. I was hardly getting past 1/2 throttle. I seemed to handle pretty well, but I'm really looking forward to Friday night and our regular parking lot oval race and getting it out to give it a good test run, check heats after exended hard run times. Just hoping for good weather on Friday. I'll try and get some better vid then too.

I really thought you had it with the nitro engine at the beginning of the movie LOL. Very nice.

lutach · 10.31.2007, 10:07 AM

I'm browsing through your pictures and I noticed you have an adapter plate on your Lehner. Did you make that?

jhautz · 10.31.2007, 10:13 AM

Mike makes them. Great for keeping the holes on the motor intact. I recomend one for every Lehner.

snellemin · 10.31.2007, 10:38 AM

Nice vid man.

supralover72 · 10.31.2007, 03:33 PM

Wow, that's awesome! It's amazing to see something that big do donuts like a 10th scale.

Great work.

Serum · 10.31.2007, 03:46 PM

That's it! show that screamer who's boss Jeff... Nice work..!

jhautz · 10.31.2007, 04:17 PM

Thanks guys.

Its straight line fast for sure, but I will find out if it handels worth a turd on Friday. Really looking forward to it.

jnev · 10.31.2007, 06:32 PM

What exactly is this adapter? I don't really understand what it does, or what it even looks like... Do you need it if you run a Lehner? Do you need it for other motors as well?

MetalMan · 10.31.2007, 06:47 PM

This adapter will allow you to fit a motor without a 25mm screw pattern (25mm = distance between mounting holes on a 540 motor) to a mount that has a 25mm screw pattern. The KB45 motor has a 30mm screw pattern and uses 4mm screws, so an adapater for the KB45 would allow it to mount up to, let's say an E-Maxx motor mount that uses a 25mm screw pattern and 3mm screws.

squee, the KB45 motors have screwed-on endbells. I talked to a guy who said his unscrewed very easily (so he took measures to keep it tight), but my KB45 10XL will not let its front endbell come loose. I've tried a grip wrench (rubber strap wrench) and a plate held in the vice attached to the front endbell by 4 screws, and I would've broken the grip wrench if I were to have used any more strength.

squeeforever · 11.01.2007, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MetalMan

This adapter will allow you to fit a motor without a 25mm screw pattern (25mm = distance between mounting holes on a 540 motor) to a mount that has a 25mm screw pattern. The KB45 motor has a 30mm screw pattern and uses 4mm screws, so an adapater for the KB45 would allow it to mount up to, let's say an E-Maxx motor mount that uses a 25mm screw pattern and 3mm screws.

squee, the KB45 motors have screwed-on endbells. I talked to a guy who said his unscrewed very easily (so he took measures to keep it tight), but my KB45 10XL will not let its front endbell come loose. I've tried a grip wrench (rubber strap wrench) and a plate held in the vice attached to the front endbell by 4 screws, and I would've broken the grip wrench if I were to have used any more strength.

Thanks Metalman. I'm really thinking of getting one of these for my BPP LSP. Only thing is, I don't know if it will fit between the braces. I know a XL will...How much bigger than a XL is it? Diameter wise.

lutach · 11.01.2007, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Thanks Metalman. I'm really thinking of getting one of these for my BPP LSP. Only thing is, I don't know if it will fit between the braces. I know a XL will...How much bigger than a XL is it? Diameter wise.

I had to cut a peice of the brace out. Even the Neu 15 sereis finned can't fit . I'll take some pictures leter today to show you how close the fit is.