Cheap "high voltage" esc Quest

[snellemin]

Originally Posted by Jammin

Man oh man, can you please help me sink my esc to my reciver. The modellfun instructions suck!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please!

Once it beeps, I push the throttle in reverse and hold it untill it starts to beep rapidly. Then I push the into the forward mode and let go. The beeping will stop after a few seconds. Then wait a sec or so and the ESC is armed and ready to go.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by snellemin

Once it beeps, I push the throttle in reverse and hold it untill it starts to beep rapidly. Then I push the into the forward mode and let go. The beeping will stop after a few seconds. Then wait a sec or so and the ESC is armed and ready to go.

Ok. That seems easier. I know you can do both ways.

[Jammin]

The instructions that come with modellfun esc's are horrible, I've been trying to sink my esc with my reciver with no luck. If any one has any input please help me out. This is what I have so far, and I don't know if it's right.




1. Remote on and all settings to neutral (factory settings)?
2. Motor connected to esc and esc to reciver
3. Plug up your battery and you will hear two beeps?
4. Move throttle in to full reverse until it beeps rapidly? How long?
5. Then move the throttle to full forward. How long before you let go? Should I get any beeps before I let go, if so what kind?
6.The beeping will stop after a few seconds (which series of beeps)? Just wait a few seconds and the esc will be armed.
7. Do you need to remove the power and plug back in to operate?




If anyone else wants to give their input, please do so. You can edit the whole thing if I'm off on anything, I'm trying to get some instructions like the mamba because I don't seem to be smart enough to program these esc's with the modellfun directions.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by Jammin

The instructions that come with modellfun esc's are horrible, I've been trying to sink my esc with my reciver with no luck. If any one has any input please help me out. This is what I have so far, and I don't know if it's right.




1. Remote on and all settings to neutral (factory settings)?
2. Motor connected to esc and esc to reciver
3. Plug up your battery and you will hear two beeps?
4. Move throttle in to full reverse until it beeps rapidly? How long?
5. Then move the throttle to full forward. How long before you let go? Should I get any beeps before I let go, if so what kind?
6.The beeping will stop after a few seconds (which series of beeps)? Just wait a few seconds and the esc will be armed.
7. Do you need to remove the power and plug back in to operate?




If anyone else wants to give their input, please do so. You can edit the whole thing if I'm off on anything, I'm trying to get some instructions like the mamba because I don't seem to be smart enough to program these esc's with the modellfun directions.

I did the second setting on mine:

1. --no need to set up Throttle itinerary ---- startup process

pull throttle into the lowest position -- → ESC power connecting → Detect and get throttle signal one beep tone "beep" → 3 seconds delay → detected throttle lowest position → one beep tone "beep" again → can start throttle Moved.( start flying). this step total beep twice . there had light on ESC when each beep tone .


If not detected throttle signal, "beep, beep and beep ... " continued beep tones are emitted.

If the battery voltage exceeds voltage, "BEEP, BEEP, BEEP ." continued beep tones are emitted. the beep tone

pause for a bit longer,Under such circumstances, ESC refused to start motor.

2.need to set up Throttle itinerary ---- startup process


pull throttle to the highest position -- → ESC power connecting → Detect and get throttle signal one beep tone "beep" → detected maximum throttle position, "beep" tone is emitted (one beep tone) → then pull to the lowest throttle position → 3 seconds of delay → "beep" tone is emitted once, Detected the lowest throttle position → can start lifting the throttle. three beep tone is emitted .

Note : This method set up the throttle itinerary is not saved. throttle itinerary can be set up and saved permanently by our programm card.

I hope this works for everyone.

[snellemin]

The stock ones were two tiny 220uF 35V caps.

[sikeston34m]

I've had really good success using the Novak HV capacitor. I've ran it on 6S without any issues and it doesn't get warm or anything.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKKN3&P=7

It produces ALOT of zap.

[sikeston34m]

This ESC looks like a good candidate for a project I'm planning.

I want an ESC setup that will run dual brushless motors in a boat.

It looks like all of the FET's are on the same side of this power board.

I need to find some sort of cooling plate made of either aluminum or copper that allows me to circulate water through it. It needs to be approximately the same size as the fet area on this board.

Then secure one ESC to each side of the cooling plate with thermal heat sink compound. Jumper the power wires, jumper the receiver harness (opto-mod) of course. Then heat shrink the entire thing together.

The end result would be a compact ESC unit that would run cool. It would have two sets of motor leads coming out. One set of battery power leads, and one receiver hook up.

[sleebus.jones]

Oooooo. Looks like that may be just what the doctor ordered!

It's actually made for cars! *faints*

Snelle, hopefully it survives the weekend. If so, I'm putting one on order to run my emaxx. However, that seller doesn't have any for sale now...

[Jammin]

I thought one of you guys might be interested in this.


http://cgi.ebay.com/BK-WARRIOR-9920-...QQcmdZViewItem

[jzemaxx]

Originally Posted by Jammin

I thought one of you guys might be interested in this.


http://cgi.ebay.com/BK-WARRIOR-9920-...QQcmdZViewItem

I have to many of them already...hehe.

[GriffinRU]

How they can claim 120A with the same number of FET (and part numbers) as Novak HV-MAXX, maybe with slightly better cooling? Which can barely handle 30A continuously without overheating.

Sure we can make it better, and I think you right, Lutach, for smaller footprint D2pak-7 would be great choice. But I will do that if there would be demand, otherwise I do not need one for myself.

I will mod this one with irf2204 and with better soldering and cooling and we will see how it does.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

How they can claim 120A with the same number of FET (and part numbers) as Novak HV-MAXX, maybe with slightly better cooling? Which can barely handle 30A continuously without overheating.

Sure we can make it better, and I think you right, Lutach, for smaller footprint D2pak-7 would be great choice. But I will do that if there would be demand, otherwise I do not need one for myself.

I will mod this one with irf2204 and with better soldering and cooling and we will see how it does.

Keep us posted on how it does. The irf2204 is a nice mosfet for sure. Did you make your board work with the MM brain? I have an idea of a new ESC. It will use 120 MOSFETs total (40 per phase) and the power boards will have a small foot print, the only problem that I'm having is putting the idea into a drawing to show you how it should look. I have the Eagle program, but I have no clue how to use it .

[Serum]

That's not the shrink wrap you get from maxamps; this one is thicker. (and more flexible) the only type i've known for ages.. It's way more flexible than the normal shrink wrap you buy for batteries.

[snellemin]

Yes, Lets hope it survives this weekend. If it does, it will be a nice alternative to the mamba esc in my rustler. Gets to be a hassle plugging it in the laptop at the track. I can barely see the screen in the sun.

I hope this won't effect Mike ESC sales.

[snellemin]

Which heatshrink are you talking about Serum? The one that I'm using?