RC Monster direct drive unit for FLM E-Maxx

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by GorillaMaxx360

one quick question. You did say that the motor can be turned around and is made to be turned around right. You just did not like the rear weight bias of the motor on the other side. I am i correct.

You are exactly correct...I also did not like the way my MGM ESC fit with the motor positioned to the rear.

[captain harlock]

From the looks of the design, it is very possible to turn it to the other side.

[macr0w]

Very nice! I may be looking at one of these in the future.

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by captain harlock

From the looks of the design, it is very possible to turn it to the other side.

Yes it works either way...

[mkrusedc]

So the 9.5 won't work, right. I need to find a monster pirate diff?

[suicideneil]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCWK5&P=SM

A cheaper alternative maybe? Does the center diff use 8x16 bearings?

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCWK5&P=SM

A cheaper alternative maybe? Does the center diff use 8x16 bearings?

Yes that diff will work fine...I just used the hyper center diff because I wanted to match the UE spider diffs I am running in the front and rear.

8mmX16mm bearings are the size...

[suicideneil]

Thats okay, answers my questions. I was just somewhat scared by the $100+ price tag on some of those diffs....

I'll see if I can find anything on the monsterpirate center.

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Thats okay, answers my questions. I was just somewhat scared by the $100+ price tag on some of those diffs....

I'll see if I can find anything on the monsterpirate center.

Thanks Neil...by the way...I found my hyper diff on ebay for $34!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!new in box. There are still lots of them available. I also found a set of Spider diffs (front & rear) for $55 each. Wish I would have found them before I bought the UE spiders. Oh well, I am saving them for my next build.

[Serum]

have you seen this thread?

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10092

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by Serum

have you seen this thread?

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10092

That is nice work Serum. You never cease to amaze me with the quality of your work. So how did the design work out for you? I almost went with a CF chassis on my G3R revo that I am building...but backed out and went with aluminum at the last minute...I was afraid the CF would not hold up as well.

[Serum]

Carbon is quite tough as it is;

I managed to break a CF lower tray on the gmaxx though; but that was with the 2.5mm thickness. This plate is 3.6mm thick, i hope for the best.

Usually if carbon breaks, aluminum is deformed beyond repair. i was still able to use it though, it was just a crack on one of the bridges.

[_paralyzed_]

I have been waiting for this info........................ why didn't anybody tell me????????????????

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

I have been waiting for this info........................ why didn't anybody tell me????????????????

Sorry dude...I have been crazy busy and I forgot! PM me if you want specifics....it is a sweet setup...and it is going to be even better when Mike releases the slipper diff. If Mike asks, the drive shafts are 88mm and 130mm long (tip to tip). The pin to pin length is about four to five mm shorter.

All we need now is a direct drive unit for the gorilla chassis.

Originally Posted by ssspconcepts

Sorry dude...I have been crazy busy and I forgot! PM me if you want specifics....it is a sweet setup...and it is going to be even better when Mike releases the slipper diff. If Mike asks, the drive shafts are 88mm and 130mm long (tip to tip). The pin to pin length is about four to five mm shorter.

All we need now is a direct drive unit for the gorilla chassis.

haha when i was at work i was reading the new rc car mag that came in today and it had that in it.