Medusa Afterburner V2 BL motors

[Raze ST Truggy]

Just put in a preorder for the 80mm 2000kv motor. It's either going into my revo or a e-raze st truggy conversion.

-Brian

[Arct1k]

Peachy... with a RCM 4mm end plate you can use an RCM XL heatsink :)

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

Peachy... with a RCM 4mm end plate you can use an RCM XL heatsink :)

Are you talking about the neu lehner plate. Does this motor need a clamp & end plate ?.

[Arct1k]

Not required for stopping the end bell from falling off like a Feigao and temps should be ok.

However it would help with stopping dirt from getting into the open end and would provide extra surface area for heat dissipation.

I run an S HS on my 50mm & mike ran a L on his 60mm - The XL would fit the 70mm perfectly with a neu front cover or be slightly too long 4mm without - Or you could use an L HS and have 10mm uncovered.

or you could just use a clip-on if required. Lots of options.

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

Not required for stopping the end bell from falling off like a Feigao and temps should be ok.

However it would help with stopping dirt from getting into the open end and would provide extra surface area for heat dissipation.

I run an S HS on my 50mm & mike ran a L on his 60mm - The XL would fit the 70mm perfectly with a neu front cover or be slightly too long 4mm without - Or you could use an L HS and have 10mm uncovered.

or you could just use a clip-on if required. Lots of options.

Well this well be on road so im not to sure there will be much if any dirt . I like the HS idea just not sure if the end plate is needed for on road .

[George16]

So which one is better suited for a revo conversion on 4S?

36-70-2000

or

36-70-1600

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by George16

So which one is better suited for a revo conversion on 4S?

36-70-2000

or

36-70-1600

I would go with the 70mm, especially if you paln to lock it in 2nd and use motor brakes.

[Unsullied_Spy]

Originally Posted by George16

So which one is better suited for a revo conversion on 4S?

36-70-2000

or

36-70-1600

If you're only going to run 4s the 2000 would probably be better. If you plan to step up to 5s or 6s go with the 1600.

I've already got a pre-order in for the 70mm and 80mm 2000 KV motors, 70mm for my Hyper and 80mm for my Muggy. I'm a little unsure about using Medusas instead of a Neu, I was sooo happy with my 1515 I don't know about the lower rating of the Medusas. I guess I'll find out.

I like longer motors because they generate more torque, the more torque you have the less work the motor has to do. The problem is that they also draw more amps so you have to balance the length, KV, your batteries voltage, the weight of the vehicle, etc. It drives me nuts trying to decide which motor I want.

Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy

I like longer motors because they generate more torque, the more torque you have the less work the motor has to do. The problem is that they also draw more amps so you have to balance the length, KV, your batteries voltage, the weight of the vehicle, etc. It drives me nuts trying to decide which motor I want.

This is exactly my feeling too. Although the speedcalculator and these forums are a great help, it seems impossible to chose 1 motor and getting it right from the start, especially if your setup is different than common setups.

If I understand correctly:
- larger can motors with the same kv rating produce more torque than smaller can motors.
- lower kv motors produce more torque than higher kv motors with the same can length?

So if a have a setup geared for 40mph and I need more torque (and don't want to sacrifice speed) I could:
- get a larger can motor with the same kv rating;
- or go for a higher voltage setup with a lower kv rating/ same can length...

[Unsullied_Spy]

Originally Posted by drkdgglr

This is exactly my feeling too. Although the speedcalculator and these forums are a great help, it seems impossible to chose 1 motor and getting it right from the start, especially if your setup is different than common setups.

If I understand correctly:
- larger can motors with the same kv rating produce more torque than smaller can motors.
- lower kv motors produce more torque than higher kv motors with the same can length?

So if a have a setup geared for 40mph and I need more torque (and don't want to sacrifice speed) I could:
- get a larger can motor with the same kv rating;
- or go for a higher voltage setup with a lower kv rating/ same can length...

The larger can will provide more torque because there is essentially just more surface area. You get longer coils and thus a longer magnet (rotor) so even though it may be spinning at the same RPM, it will be able to provide more torque. Hopefully someone else can clear this up a little better.

A brushless motor's torque is largely dependant on amps. The KV rating tells you how many RPMs it will spin per volt applied, but the faster it spins per volt the more amps it needs to maintain that RPM. Theoretically, these Medusa motors are all capable of the same output (wattage) as long as they're the same size. A higher KV motor will require more amps and will drain the batteries faster while a lower KV motor will require fewer amps but more voltage.

If you're aiming for 40 MPH (very reasonable goal, according to BrianG's calculator my Muggy was doing around 45 on 5s with 40 series tires and a 2700KV Neu) and you already have your motor, it is cheaper to just get a smaller pinion gear. The smaller pinion gear will reduce the load you put on the motor, ESC, and batteries (reduce amp draw) which gives you more torque in 2 ways. The first way is you now have a shorter overall gear ratio, which is easier for the motor to turn, and the second is you are requiring fewer amps out of your batteries so if you really get it bogged down you have those extra amps to pull. If you aren't happy about the drop in speed, add more voltage. It's a good idea to aim your KV/voltage around 30-40k RPM though these motors can do 50k without coming apart (the bearings are rated to 60k, but you shouldn't need to push it that far).

This is where I get all confused. I spend a lot of time before buying a motor trying to balance out the weight of higher voltage packs with the amp output of the batteries I'll be using while trying to keep temps down. Technically the lower KV you run the better as long as you can feed it enough volts, but adding cells for voltage gets heavy and takes a lot of room. For a 1/8th Buggy or Truggy anything between 1500 and 2300 KV and 4-6s lipo (5-7s A123) should be fine though.

Sorry if I completely lost you, I just spent almost 8.5 hours at work so I'm a little out of it. Hopefully someone else can jump in and correct errors I've probably made

Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy

but adding cells for voltage gets heavy and takes a lot of room.

As I understand, if you go for higher voltage and lower kv, you can get lower capacity amp packs. With 5s5000mah packs you should get about the same runtime as with 10s2500mah packs (both setups geared for the same speed). So the weight of the batterys should be about the same.

[BrianG]

linc, both his suggestions were 70mm. He's probably asking which one.

On 4s, I'd go with the 2000.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by BrianG

linc, both his suggestions were 70mm. He's probably asking which one.

On 4s, I'd go with the 2000.

Ahh, the art of paying attention... I would go with the 2000kv as well.

[George16]

Thanks Brian.

James, I received the Tekno revo conversion last Friday. I'm going to keep the other revo nitro while the 2nd one will be running the Medusa 36-70-2000 on 4S with the MMM V3 (whenever I received the replacement for my V2.

The gmaxx will be my 6S setup with the Neu 1515 1Y and Luciano's 6S ESC which I received today.

[MTBikerTim]

I so want the 80mm 1600kv for my savage. Really can't afford it at the moment especially with the really bad exchange rate. I wonder if this would solve my temp issues with out gearing down.