What is a Slipperential?

[RC-Monster Mike]

Temps will vary with various factors. High slip settings will obviously generate more heat(and the heavier the vehicle, the higher the heat potential as well). It should keep itself fairly cool with any usable amount of slip - I don't think temps will ever really be an issue(it does cool itself in use with the small fins built onto the slipper-side cap). If it slips so much that forward motion is an issue, I would expect higher temps, but this scenario wouldn't make sense in practice. Have you temp'd it after a run?

[RBMike]

Yes on a medium too slightly loose surface, medim/large track that is fairly high speed. I ran a few times making adjustments until I liked the feel. After a 10 minute run I measured 110 too 125 deg F on the outside metal parts of the diff. The air temp was in the mid to high 70's.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Perfectly normal and acceptable temps. The center diff in my Losi truggy would routinely be 150-165 after a run......without a slipperential - the heat was generated mostly by the drive shafts rubbing inside the drive cups(front was always very hot due to the angle). The Slipperential cools itself pretty well - unless your slipping it halfway around the track, temps should not become an issue at all( and if you have to slip the slipper halfway around the track, you are probably running too much power to begin with). :)

[RBMike]

OK thanks that what I was thinking (never temped a stock diff). Just wanted to know if it was normal. Great engineering effort on this thing, works very well.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Glad you like it! :)

[ssspconcepts]

Mike, Are you still planning on offering shim kits for the slipperential?

[superek4]

Originally Posted by ssspconcepts

Mike, Are you still planning on offering shim kits for the slipperential?

I actually cut half a bearing n use it as a spacer better than shimming.

Will other outdrive cups work in the slipperential? In other words will a stock Losi outdrive work in the slipperential? The outdrives on mine are junk. And I would really like to use it this weekend. Just wondering if anyone has tried something.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Yes, we plan to offer shim kits - have some Orings coming to try out(quick, inexpensive option), but will make shims if they don't work out.

[XXXDAD]

I would like some pics of where and how to shim.. I don't have one yet! But for sure I will! I'm new to the 1/8 th scale E thing... Just gettind my Losi 2.0 converted now! Have the losi E- conversion with the Tekin Esc and motor..... Like the slipper Idea... Have them in all my 1/10 scales!!

[RC-Monster Mike]

The Losi doesn't require any shimming between the bulks - it is a drop in fit. With the losi conversion, the entire center diff assembly needs to be spaced up about 1 mm to allow the spur to clear the chassis, but no other mods are required. :)

[XXXDAD]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

The Losi doesn't require any shimming between the bulks - it is a drop in fit. With the losi conversion, the entire center diff assembly needs to be spaced up about 1 mm to allow the spur to clear the chassis, but no other mods are required. :)

Ok I see thanks for the lightning quick reply! I'm saving to get one....

i am looking at this with very keen eyes. i have a nitro converted revo with all the MMM and NEU goodies running a 5s 18.5v lipo set. i have managed to lock my clutch bell to the flywheel whilst still retaining the elektro clutch as an adaptor via a diy mod with and aluminium billet. the only slip i have now is on the tranny with those 3 shoes. can the slipperential be used as a torque split diff like in rally cars. i can dial in how much front grip i get and how much later the rear wheels get power or a % of the power? my revo is insane to say the least and at this stage the tires act more like the slipper than anything else. i feel however its only a matter of time before the drive train will fail. wil this help me and is it a drop in fir for a converted revo 3.3?

very keen. :)

[Stealth_RT]

I have been running the Slipperential in my RC8e since they first came out. It is a very nice unit, but there are a few things I don't like/would like to see changed:

The teflon ring inside the spur gear wears very quickly and now the spur gear runs a bit off center, making tight spots in the gear mesh. I'll have to order extra teflon rings, but it would be nice if they lasted more than 2-3 weeks before letting the spur gear get off center.

The diff outdrives are WAY too big inside for RC8 dogbones. Any reason they were made so big? Or should I ask, what brand 1/8th uses diff outdrives with that large of an inside diameter? Unfortunately, stock RC8 diff outdrives are a bit too short to work, on at least the spur gear end.

The diff outdrives are supposed to be hardenend, and I guess they are or they'd wear out in 2 runs. But after only 3-4 weeks of racing, they are showing serious wear.

As a slipper pad material, plain fiberglass works OK, but it sure changes its slip characteristics when it gets hot. Was testing done with 'normal' slipper pad materials like Rulon or Teflon?

I haven't done back to back testing vs stock center diff yet. I'll have to reuild my stock with a 46T K car plastic spur gear to keep gearing the same, and see how it feels.

[pumpkinfish]

Off topic, but Stealth, what receiver box do you have installed? I have been rigging up an RC8e box to fit my Mugen MBX-6 but yours looks like what I wanted from the get go.